ID S&W 38 Special

[Alrod]

I found this gun in my father's collection after he passed last year. it appears to have a sandblast finish with a 5" barrel with "38 S&W SPECIAL" on it. Last date is dec. 28. 14 serial #310788 is stamped on butt, barrel and cylinder.
It appears to be a pre model 10.
Any help is appreciated.

 

[Starter52]

Looks like a pre-10 with replacement stocks.

1920's, maybe. Just a guess.

 

[Old Fuff]

It's a pre, pre-model 10...

... S&W .38 1905 Hand Ejector (Military & Police) 4th Change. Estimated date of manufacture would be between 1918 and 1920.

It appears to be all original except for the stocks, which were made after the Second World War.

Given this gun's history within your family, I suggest that you get it "lettered." To do so you will need a snapshot of the gun, a full description including the serial number on the butt, and a check in the amount of $30.00 made out to Smith & Wesson. In exchange the company's historian, Roy G. Jinks, will research the original records (which are not computerized by the way) and send you a letter containing the details of what he finds.

This comprehensive document will contain an overview of the model’s history, followed by the details of your particular gun. This usually includes the caliber, barrel length, finish, and the exact date it was shipped from the factory, and to what distributor or dealer. If there are any special features they will be listed too. This information is often invaluable to both you and future generations.

Additional information on a historical letter will be found at the Smith & Wesson company website at: www.smith-wesson.com

 

[Alrod]

Thanks

Wow that was quick! I had no idea how old it was when I found it. still shoots great but it is being retired for good.(found a hairline crack in the frame.) now I guess it becomes a family heirloom.
Al

 

[Old Fuff]

Exactly where is this hairline crack? If it's on the right side it may be a closely fitted sideplate.

That kind of crack is supposed to be there...

 

[Alrod]

The crack is on the right, extending from the top screw towards the hammer.

 

[Old Fuff]

Tell ya' what, since it's cracked I'll give ya' $10.00 for it....

Not really, but someone might try and pull something like that...

Anyway, what you are looking at is not a crack, but an example of the extraordinary craftsmanship S&W offered when that revolver was made. What you’re seeing is the fit between the sideplate (through which you gain access to the internal lockwork) and the frame. Today some folks brag about “modern” machine tools that are so much better then what the old-timers had, but the fact is your World War One era relic is in many respects better and more precisely fitted then those which being made currently. So long as you use ammunition that is appropriate for the gun, given its age, there is no reason you shouldn’t shoot it.

Also a warning: Do not let an inexperienced person try to remove the sideplate by using a screwdriver (or whatever) to pry it off after the screws are removed. This is not the way it’s done, and that splendid fit you’re looking at will be ruined.

 

[Alrod]

Thanks, I will take it out for a few rounds to celebrate....
Al