Ideal hunting knife?

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David LeMoine makes some nice custom jobs. I have fished and hunted with him for 30 years and have 2 of his. I don't have any pictures right now but you can google him. His knives are cryogenically treated and the exotic woods used in most of the handles is stabilized. I field dressed four deer and the knife would still shave.
 
Here are another bunch of top quality knives.

http://www.dozierknives.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=77&Itemid=128

Dozier learned knife making from Bob Loveless.

Yes, Dozier makes a good knife, but the OP wants to spend next to nothing, and Dozier knives are $500.

While I think these are great knives, well made, good designs, I don't think the OP wants to pay the price I did for these, and that is the realm Dozier knives occupy.

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I always liked the tapered tang of the Morseth knives:

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For big game, drop point is what I like. I use a BuckLite Max with full tang. 420HC is easy to sharpen and the grip is nice. I use a clip point for small game and fishing, which is a Buck 110.
 
Have used a fix blade Lakota Hawk for close to 40 years. Too bad they are not made anymore. I have had many name brands including older Case, Buck,Schrade, etc. Plus have a high dollar custom by a MT master knife smith. Still prefer my Lakota Hawk.
 
For big game, drop point is what I like. I use a BuckLite Max with full tang. 420HC is easy to sharpen and the grip is nice. I use a clip point for small game and fishing, which is a Buck 110.

420HC is indeed easy to sharpen. Like the AUS series and 440A and 440B Unfortunately, they doesn't hold an edge worth a darn. Properly heat treated D-2 or M-2 will need sharpening about 1/10 as often. CPM-S90V, K390, Maxamet will need sharpening about 1/25 as often
 
I prefer a drop point like a fixed blade Schrade so I can put my index finger along the spine and guide it accordingly
 
Mora knives are some of the best knives on the market. Super sharp and very very affordable. I like the utilitarian ones with reddish handles and plastic scabbards.
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Mora-of-Sweden-Classic-No-20--20967 small
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Mora-of-Sweden-Classic-Number-2--20123 med
https://www.bladehq.com/item--Mora-of-Sweden-Classic-Number-3--20124 large

LD

Well, thanks, you just cost me 18 bucks and change. :rofl: I had to order that "med" 4 1/8" blade. I've read so much about these Moras I just have to try one.
 
YES..., YES IT IS!

I can get them very very sharp, and I absolutely love them, and the fact that if I lose one, they are inexpensive to replace.
They are carbon steel, not stainless, so they will dull, and if not looked after they can rust. I do a lot of historic demonstrations revolving around flintlock hunting, so I can't use a stainless steel knife, and the handles can be easily reshaped as well..., I make a leather sheath for the ones I use for historic demos. .

Funny thing..., Murphy's Law..., I've lost a couple expensive knives in the woods, but the inexpensive knives from Mora..., I've had for years. Field dressed a lot of deer and a lot of squirrels with them, and use them as a patch knife too.

LD
 
I inherited an old fixed blade knife from my father. He was an adult Boy Scout leader and our family camped out a lot so it saw plenty of use. It's nothing special, made in Pakistan. But while we may think of Pakistan as low-tech, they do know how to work steel. That knife gets razor sharp and holds an edge! I don't think you need a real expensive knife to clean animals, and I'm using it on hogs which are considerably tougher than deer. I know now why footballs are made of pigskin!
 
I inherited an old fixed blade knife from my father. He was an adult Boy Scout leader and our family camped out a lot so it saw plenty of use. It's nothing special, made in Pakistan. But while we may think of Pakistan as low-tech, they do know how to work steel. That knife gets razor sharp and holds an edge! I don't think you need a real expensive knife to clean animals, and I'm using it on hogs which are considerably tougher than deer. I know now why footballs are made of pigskin!

Yep, pigs will dull a knife quick! I read something once that Javelina populations were nearly wiped out back in the day for their use as drive belts in factories. It was the 19th century before polybutadiene. :D Now, Javelina is not a pig, same order, different sub-order IIRC. Anyway, they're closely related. I often wondered why Javelina was so good for drive belts and pig skin wasn't. Maybe it had to do with lack of fat or something. Quien sabe? But, pig skin is MIGHTY tough!

I also read, maybe on this site, that if you wash the sand out of a pigs hide before skinning, your knife wouldn't dull as fast. Don't know, but it's such a pain to rig up a water hose all the way back to my gambrel, I just would rather sharpen the knife a few times while skinning. :rofl:
 
4E4FE647-C48E-44E7-A249-1AC06ECDD4B1.jpeg Back in the 1980s, at an unusual time when I had some extra play money, I bought a Randall knife because everyone had to have a Randall knife, right? And I stored it away, keeping it beautiful, pristine, just like it arrived from Randall’s forge. After owning and admiring it in its hidden drawer for about 15 years, I thought what the hell...my son, my daughter, my wife don’t give a damn about this knife. If it really is a good knife, it should be used. So I used it on my next deer kill. The blade held its edge wonderfully, unzipping the deer quickly. It got bloody. The leather grip got bloody. The sheath got bloody. The blade discolored when I washed it with bleach. And I was pleased. I have taken that Randall into the deer woods every year since, and it works like it should, like a magic wand, cutting whatever I point it at, smoothly, cleanly, belly and breastbone and pelvis. I know I can count on it. It will be in my pack next Saturday.

Before using the Randall, I used an API blade, short, curved, with a very ergonomic grip. If for some unfathomable reason I should ever not take the Randall, I will carry the API. The gut hook is a gimmick in my opinion. I’ve never used that part of the blade.
 
This is going to sound like song lyrics. ;) However...I have ElCheapo knives, I have good knives, I have some great knives... I have zero "Oh my God" knives. The heart of a knife is its steel. The second is how it's mounted, full tang, hidden tang, etc. Everything else is preference and aesthetics. Not that those aren't important.
Almost any knife to an extent, will do. The one that pleases you through its performance, feel and quality is the one you want. You won't know that knife until you use it. That's why you get so many "swear by" selections from people. I like to make my own knives. I've made what I consider to be my ideal hunting knife, in about 5 different versions. :rofl:

40334675700_61f8f6b033_z.jpg damasskinner.jpg elkhorskin.jpg
 
I also read, maybe on this site, that if you wash the sand out of a pigs hide before skinning, your knife wouldn't dull as fast. Don't know, but it's such a pain to rig up a water hose all the way back to my gambrel, I just would rather sharpen the knife a few times while skinning. :rofl:

Sorry, not trying to be argumentative, but I don’t understand this.

After an initial stab through the skin, the knife edge should not come in contact with the outside surface. Skinning is accomplished by sliding the blade’s cutting edge through the subcutaneous tissue, the fatty layer between the outside skin and muscle layers below. I have watched packing house employees skin a lot of hogs, some of them pretty nasty, using only a smooth steel to true the cutting edge of their knives. They might use a sharpening stone to hone a new edge every hundred animals or so. Sharpening, as opposed to steeling the blade, should not be needed very often if the knife is made of good steel and has a good edge profile to start with.
 
It has to be small enough to use one handed easily in the dark while the other hand holds the flashlight. It has to be able to be sharpened to an edge so fine that it will dress a deer like cutting through warm butter. It has to be able to field dress two deer and still shave the hair off my arm afterwards. This knife can and has done this. It does require a sharpener with diamond stones.

https://agrussell.com/knife/Dozier-Slim-Outdoorsman-with-Black-Rucarta-Handle--DK-4BRH
 
I have watched packing house employees skin a lot of hogs, some of them pretty nasty, using only a smooth steel to true the cutting edge of their knives. They might use a sharpening stone to hone a new edge every hundred animals or so. Sharpening, as opposed to steeling the blade, should not be needed very often if the knife is made of good steel and has a good edge profile to start with.

Having working in a packing house many years ago, I can tell you the knives get traded out, reground, and sharpened on a regular basis. Unlike sportman who may invest in a high dollar knife and use it for years, they go through a lot of knives. From what I recall, at our plant all of the knives started out with 20" long by 3" wide and changed roles as they ground down to the point of being the size of a paring knife before being discarded. Steel was high carbon and had a fairly ridged spine. The handles were very basic molded hard plastic with a little stippling. No idea what they cost, but I doubt they were very expensive.

On the line you make the same cuts over and over, rather than breaking down an entire animal by yourself. The blade length you choose ends up specialized for the job at hand. We all carried three or four of the same size blades and just swapped out over shifts as they got too dull to hone. You do learn very quickly to avoid nicking hard items that can dull your edge. New guys constantly changed out knives while an old timer could go a week with just one set. So technique had a lot of influence on the perceived durability of the knife.
 
In small mom-and-pop establishments, one employee may do everything thing from stunning, sticking, skinning, gutting, trimming and washing after inspection, unlike very large establishments with dozens or hundreds of employees. None of them hone new edges often; they simply cannot take time away from their duties on the kill floor, whether large or small establishment. It’s true that most carry more than one knife; sticking, boning, and skinning are more efficient with appropriately shaped blades.

All the knives I have seen in packing houses, large or small, were no longer than 6” by about 1” wide, and could be used in the field. I have never seen a 20” x 3” sword on any kill floor, including large fast kill hog and cattle establishments in which thousands of animals were processed daily.

Not trying to be argumentative, just saying that in 11 years with FSIS, I didn’t see them. By any chance was your establishment performing kosher or halal slaughter?
 
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In small mom-and-pop establishments, one employee may do everything thing from stunning, sticking, skinning, gutting, trimming and washing after inspection, unlike very large establishments with dozens or hundreds of employees. None of them hone new edges often; they simply cannot take time away from their duties on the kill floor, whether large or small establishment. It’s true that most carry more than one knife; sticking, boning, and skinning are more efficient with appropriately shaped blades.

All the knives I have seen in packing houses, large or small, were no longer than 6” by about 1” wide, and could be used in the field. I have never seen a 20” x 3” sword on any kill floor, including large fast kill hog and cattle establishments in which thousands of animals were processed daily.

Not trying to be argumentative, just saying that in 11 years with FSIS, I didn’t see them. By any chance was your establishment performing kosher or halal slaughter?

I dont recall the plant being kosher, it was all pork lol. Pretty sure they weren't used to dispatch animals, though I know of a kosher beef plant that did that. I think the Farmland plant I was at used them separating bellies in slabs laying flat on a conveyor, but could be wrong. This was almost 30 years ago.

The knife room ran a shift daily. They had full time employees who did nothing but grind and hone knives. You come up to the counter to pick up or trade out when needed. We were told all the knives started out the same and ground down from there. They definitely had the long blades in use and every knife I ever handled was obviously ground down to its size over time. Similar 5 to 7 inch profiles, but none was exactly same length/width/shape. I was on the cold side of the plant on picnic boning. Working in a huge freezer was a great motivator to finish school and work in a professional office environment.

That said, my preference for majority of field work is a 4 or 5 inch drop point. Boning knives are great for hanging animals or big pieces on a table but lack dexterity when cutting an animal on the ground while leaning over it on my knees.
 
Picked up this benchmade "Hidden Canyon" this year and really like it. Very small, extremely sharp, and after processing three deer I can say it holds an edge very well. I plan to send it in to benchmade for their lifetime sharpening service at the end of each deer season.

Fits in the hand just right, short enough to fit anywhere. Only cut myself once so far!
 
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