Ingredients of Hi-Tek Bullet Coating?

[bluetopper]

I've heard there is a video of someone drilling a hole in a cast bullet coated with Hi-Tek and heating it up and pouring the lead out of the inside of the bullet coating. What on earth is in the Hi-Tek coating? I know it is very very hard. Will it wear barrels too much?

 

[Rule3]

It is proprietary. You know, secret, magic. Been used for years and has not seemed to eat up any barrels.

Yes you can heat it with a propane torch and it will not melt, or smash the bullet with a hammer (several times) and it will not peel off.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=742164

 

[PO2Hammer]

I know it is very very hard.

I don't think it's hard at all, I would call it resilient, like a tough plastic.
All the makers claim no excess wear, lets hope their right, cause I/we shoot a bunch of them.
I think Federal is coming out with a line of coated ammo, not sure if it's Hi-Tek or not, but I'm sure they've done their homework.

 

[kcofohio]

I don't think it's hard at all, I would call it resilient, like a tough plastic.
All the makers claim no excess wear, lets hope their right, cause I/we shoot a bunch of them.
I think Federal is coming out with a line of coated ammo, not sure if it's Hi-Tek or not, but I'm sure they've done their homework.

They had produced the Nyclad bullets before. But I'm not sure if it would be a similar process or not.

 

[PO2Hammer]

Not Nyclad, those are long extinct.

http://www.gunsandammo.com/shot-show-2016/first-look-american-eagle-syntech-ammo/

 

[243winxb]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=9590167&postcount=13 PC just looks like more work to (lazy) me.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

The coating will deform and get soft. As far as I know its a type of powder coat.

Powder coat is made with a thermosetting plastic or thermo polymer based. Pigments and resins combine to make a tough heat resistant form of plastic paint if you will. That's why it holds shape after the lead melts and it needs a static charge or liquid type paint thinner to apply the coating before baking it.

My powder coated bullets do much the same when i throw them back in to be melted down. The lead runs out and i skim the powder coat off. Good as new.

 

[Rule3]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rule3 View Post
Here is a picture of a Bayou Bullet 9mm bullet smashed with a hammer.

Do you think crimping is going to hurt it??

I also torched one with a propane torch and the lead melted inside but the coating remained until a pin hole opened and the lead flowed out!


Go to post #12

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=10166350#post10166350

 

[kcofohio]

Not Nyclad, those are long extinct.

http://www.gunsandammo.com/shot-show-2016/first-look-american-eagle-syntech-ammo/

A misunderstanding.

Wasn't saying they would be Nyclad, but Federal had, at one time offered a coated bullet. But I believe all their Nyclad were HP. Will they be drawing from that experience or not, I don't know.

 

[PO2Hammer]

Gotcha.

 

[joneb]

I tried some Missouri coated bullets in 357 mag and 44 spl. they smell funny when fired My concern is deposits left by the coated bullet in the barrel that I can not get out.

 

[kcofohio]

I tried some Missouri coated bullets in 357 mag and 44 spl. they smell funny when fired My concern is deposits left by the coated bullet in the barrel that I can not get out.

Have you tried some Chore Boy, copper scrub (non-steel) wrapped around an old bore brush?

 

[joneb]

Have you tried some Chore Boy, copper scrub (non-steel) wrapped around an old bore brush?

I do that to remove lead fouling, I hope I am not getting Hi-Tek fouling.

 

[41 Mag]

While I personally haven't used the Hi-Tek, I have coated plenty using other powders.

In my initial testing, I scrubbed the barrels on three different caliber revolvers clean. Then as I tested the rounds in groups of five through each one, I again used a bronze brush to scour the barrel. I placed a 3x5 note card in between the cylinder and frame to catch whatever came out. I found hardly anything at all on the paper other than some very light powder. In fact I actually feel that I had more actual powder residue than anything.

THe bullets that I shot I recovered and most of them still had the majority of the coating still intact even within the grooves from the rifling. It was apearant that some had been rubbed off but I noted nothing I was concerened about.

I have since taken my 45 ACP as well as a 9mm to the range and put several hundred coated rounds through them both. I have seen nothing what so ever that I would consider an issue with left behind residue build up.

That said, I, like many others, have a hard time getting the thought out of my head that the coated bullets do anything coming close to the wear that a hard standard jacketd bullet could do.

Like mentioned above though, "lets hope not".

As to it being a pain to do, well it isn't the most fun I have had while playing with bullets, but I MUCH prefer it to trimming, or sizing out crimped primer pockets. I only use the shake and bake types, and do a couple hundred at a time. This keeps me in plenty of ammo, with plenty of reserve waiting to be loaded. I use them for my heavier loads and cast HP's due to using a softer alloy. For whatever reason it keeps things in check and allows me to shoot some heavier loads than I can with the same bullet lubed in the traditional way. I guess if they sold the particular ones I am using already coated I would simply drop my end and order the already coated ones. I just do not see that happening though.

 

[rsrocket1]

Thermoplastic powder coating comes off very easily with a chore boy wrapped mop, but the fouling I've taken off simply comes off with a short soaking of Hoppes No9, CLP or your favorite gun cleaner. I powder coat my own bullets with HF red or some surplus Sherwin Williams powder I got for $2/pound. To reduce/eliminate the fouling fit is still king. With the PC, there is a lot less smoke because you don't need lube and you can use any hardness lead (I use reclaimed shot) because the surface harness of the powder coat as spec'ed by the SW paint which says 2H-3H pencil hardness. The coating is tough but very flexible. They glide through the sizer as if lubed with grease.




In this instance, I simply pushed a wadded up piece of dry paper towel down the barrel to clean out the fouling.