Is it possible to have tight cylinder holes?

[Doug S]

I'm not sure of the correct language, but I'm wondering if the cylinder holes can be bored to slightly different diameters. The reason why I ask, is that I had my new SP101 out to the range again today. I had 50 rounds of all lead Blazer 38 Special, and 50 rounds of Winchester 110 grain semi-jacketed hollowpoints. I fired 50 rounds of the Winchester without any problems, and then switched over to the Blazer. I fired the box of 50 Blazer, and switched by to the Winchester. Well, when I tried to load it with the Winchester, all 5 of the rounds refused to drop all the way into the cylinder. I used a bore snake to clean, and all 5 still didn't seat completely. I ran the bore snake through a bunch more, and 3 of the 5 rounds would seat, but two still did not go all the way in. I could give them a push and the two would seat completely. I then fired those five rounds, and the cases did not want to eject. I didn't want to bend the ejector rod, so I pulled them out with my fingers. It was very hard to do, so I assume this is just a build up of lead from firing the Blazer 38 Special.

Is it unusual for this to happen only after 50 rounds? I've since cleaned the gun with solvent, and all 5 Winchester rounds now seat easily.

 

[rcmodel]

Shooting .38 Spl in a .357 always results in lead, bullet lube & powder fouling in the front of the chambers.
There is nothing wrong with your gun.

What is wrong is your choice of cleaning equipment.

Ditch the Bore-Snake and get a real cleaning rod & bronze brush for cleaning your chambers properly.


rcmodel

 

[Bellzy]

I concur with RCmodel on this one. He knows what he's talking about.

 

[Javelin]

Go RCModel.

 

[Doug S]

What is wrong is your choice of cleaning equipment. Ditch the Bore-Snake and get a real cleaning rod & bronze brush for cleaning your chambers properly.

I certainly wouldn't argue with that. That is why I only use the Bore Snakes in a pinch, while at the range. I use a regular cleaning kit, with bore brush, etc., at home afterward. That said, I purchased a portable cleaning kit, including a regular bore brush, that will now be in the range bag on future range trips. I plan to also keep a small plastic bottle of Hoppes in there as well. Just seems like one box of 50 rounds, wasn't very much to cause this issue. I figure the cylinder holes must be bored pretty tight, without much excess. I also figure the Blazer must be some pretty dirty ammo.

 

[ThomasT]

After you get the charge holes squeaky clean look at them in good light. Do they look rough or have reamer marks in them? For a comparison look at an S&W cylinder. They are normaly pretty smooth. You may need to polish the chamber walls.

Any roughness will hold fouling and make it necessary to clean the gun more often. Triggers will smooth with use. Chambers will not.

I do this with a slotted rod and very fine emory cloth. Then i use soft leather with rouge for a final polish. The other thread that is dealing with Mothers brand polish may provide some ideas also.

 

[Doug S]

Ratshooter,

Thanks for the tips. I've only looked glanced at the charge holes to see if they looked clean, but didn't know what to look for otherwise. Now, that I've read your suggestions, I'll take a better look. In the meantime, I've added a Clean Bore Poc-kit cleaning kit with real bore brush to my range bag. Either that, or give up shooting lead 38 Special. Thanks again for the info.

 

[ThomasT]

Your welcome Dougs. One thing i forgot to mention is a tight cylinder is a good thing. The guns are normally more accurate and brass last a lot longer. This is important if you reload. If ammo keeps getting higher you just might, so save your brass.

Your cylinder doesn't have to look like a mirror but shouldn't have any major scratches or drag marks from the reaming operation. You can also use wet/dry sandpaper in a fine grit to do the polish. Remember this is a smoothing and not a metal removing job.

I think your biggest problem was your cleaning methods. When i get home from a range session i spray a shot of WD40 in the barrel and charge holes and let it set. This is a penetrating oil and it seems to help loosen lead and soften fouling to make brushing it out easier. Then i use he regular gun stuff to finish up.

 

[Old Fuff]

I recommend that you don't polish the chambers or anything else, until you determine exactly what is the right solution to your problem.

Why?

Because that's a good way to mess up your warrantee, and this is a new gun. By all means do clean out the chambers after firing .38/lead bulleted rounds in the longer .357 Magnum chamber. One trick is to use a .40 caliber stainless steel cleaning brush to scrub out the chambers, BUT DON'T USE THIS LARGER BRUSH IN THE BORE!

If it is decided to polish the chambers go to Brownells (www.brownells.com) who sell a special hone (much like a brake cylinder hone) that will maintain a true and correct diameter. Other methods may leave you with an out-of-round oval chamber, which is bad news.

 

[Doug S]

Glad to hear the tight cylinder is a good thing. I also like the reloading idea.

I think that I'll leave it alone, as Old Fuff recommends, as it doesn't really seem like a problem. I will though check out the cylinder better, to see if it looks rough inside, but I didn't get a chance this evening. I don't plan to shoot a lot of the 38 lead rounds after this experience, but if I do, I'll have the poc-kit cleaning kit with me. With a proper brush and cleaner the cylinder cleans up quickly. I think some in this thread thought that I used the Bore Snake as my primary cleaner. That isn't the case, I only have the Bore Snake in my range bag for a field expedient cleaner. It just didn't do the job. At home, I use regular cleaning equipment, and I had cleaned the gun thoroughly prior to this range session, and so the cylinder was clean prior to shooting today. I guess it will just lead up within 50 rounds of dirty, all lead ammo. I'll look for jacketed ammo in the future, or run a rod through it, if I notice the casings not dropping in as easily.

Thanks for all of the tips.

 

[SASS#23149]

I don't use a steel brush,but on the cylinders of my guns I use at least the next caliber size up.the barrel diameter brushes just arent a tight enough fit.

If you try to go too large on the brush size,it'll just ruin the brush..at least on the bronze ones.Snug is good,tight is not.

 

[Grizzly Adams]

RC's done it again!

 

[Doug S]

RC's done it again!

Whats he "done" again?

 

[44and45]

A$$ kissing at its finest.

Jim

 

[dhoomonyou]

CALL Ruger service, could be a problem

I had a S&W 317 with smaller than normal chambers. The slightest bit of lead and you could NOT load a 22LR.
sent it to them (on their dime) and they sent me back a NEW cylinder with slighty larger holes. Runs great now, clean or dirty.

 

[Doug S]

A$$ kissing at its finest.

Okay, that's what I was thinking. I just haven't been able to figure out what "it" is that he did to get several others so excited. Tell me that my bore snakes were not that great?...okay...recommend so additional cleaning tips?...okay. I appreciated the tips, but quite frankly I only used the bore snake because I don't carry my regular cleaning stuff to the range with me. In the future, if I plan to shoot 38' through the SP101, I've added the better cleaning supplies. I always use regular bore brushes, etc., after a range session, once I get home, and the gun had been thoroughly cleaned prior to going to the range. Nevertheless, I'm glad so many people are so excited at whatever it is that RC Model "did". I just thought I'd ask, because I honestly was wondering if I missed something.

No offense to RC Model, of course. I really do appreciate any and all feedback, but it must be nice to have a cheerleading squad. I'm going to have to start paying more attention to RC' posts to see what all the fuss is about.

dhoomonyou,

CALL Ruger service, could be a problem

Thanks for the tip. I think I'll shoot it a few more times and see how it does with other ammo. If I think it is a problem, I'll send it in.

 

[FullEffect1911]

The simple answer is as such... Did you have any tight brass when the gun was new? If this problem wasn't there when the revolver was new, then it is most certainly fouling. Go with a good bronze bore brush through the chambers (charge holes) and some bore cleaning like hoppes #9 and you'll see it improve...

let us know how it all turns out.

 

[Spyvie]

I had an almost identical experience the first time I took my GP100 to the range. I eventually learned that I have to really scrub the heck out of the chambers after shooting .38 Spec. in any .357, especially after firing Blazer ammo.

My solution: I don't practice with .38s anymore, Blazer aluminum cased .357 is loaded very light and cost about the same as non-aluminum .38s. The Blazer .357s are dirty, but they are cheap and easy to shoot, and they don't foul the chambers in my GP100 or my SP101.

 

[Urbana John]

Like everyone "that knows" has already stated-----IF you shoot 38's in a 357 revolver-----you have GOT to CLEAN the cylinder, to remove the "built-up" crud left over from the shorter 38's. One reason why I don't shot 38's in my 357 revolvers!!

I've got 2 SS Ruger SA 357mags, and BOTH of them "had" two tight chambers, and after polishing them,they are a "little" better. Might try some of that "Mother's" polish in them. Course after the cylinder heats up a little, I don't have to use the extractor rod to remove the spent rounds. And I shoot mild reloads.

UJ

 

[Doug S]

The simple answer is as such... Did you have any tight brass when the gun was new? If this problem wasn't there when the revolver was new, then it is most certainly fouling. Go with a good bronze bore brush through the chambers (charge holes) and some bore cleaning like hoppes #9 and you'll see it improve...

The gun is new. The first time I took it out, in addition to a number of 357 rounds, I shot a box of all lead Remington 38 Special ammo. I noticed that one cylinder hole got a little gummed up, but one pull of the bore snake cleaned it up. The episode mentioned in this thread was the second time I had the gun to the range. This time, in addition to some 357, I shot 50 rounds of Blazer all lead 38 Special, and then when I switched back to the 357, all 5 cylinder holes would not allow 357 rounds to seat. The bore snake wasn't enough to clear out the holes. I've since cleaned it at home, and all 5 rounds seat without any problems.

All of that said, I'm sure it was just a matter of fouling, but I just wondered if the fact that the gun did this after only 50 rounds (on all 5 holes) of 38 Special, indicated that my particular gun had unusually tight cylinder holes. As some have mentioned here, it may be that my cylinder is a little rough, but to tell you the truth I can't really tell. It looks fine to me. That said, I've had a number of other 357 revolvers, and none exhibited this trait. It doesn't concern me much, because as stated below...

I had an almost identical experience the first time I took my GP100 to the range. I eventually learned that I have to really scrub the heck out of the chambers after shooting .38 Spec. in any .357, especially after firing Blazer ammo.

My solution: I don't practice with .38s anymore, Blazer aluminum cased .357 is loaded very light and cost about the same as non-aluminum .38s. The Blazer .357s are dirty, but they are cheap and easy to shoot, and they don't foul the chambers in my GP100 or my SP101.

...I will try some different types of ammo, and stick to 357 if necessary. If I do shoot 38 out of it, I'll keep the pocket cleaner handy.

I do appreciate the feedback.