Jammed Ruger SP-101

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strick9

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Mar 16, 2007
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Two years ago I misplaced my SP-101. I thought it had been stolen but I recently found it. I was covered with crud and is loaded. The cylinder release won't work, and there was crud between the cylinder and the frame. Furthermore, the hammer and trigger were frozen up.

I removed the rubber grip and soaked it in Prep-sol but it didn't help much. Nothing seemed to dissolve in the solvent but I was able to get most of the visible crud out between the frame and cylinder. Hammer, trigger, and cylinder release are still frozen.

I don't know what to do next. I could knock out the pin and try to remove the hammer and trigger. However, the manual says that the gun needs to be unloaded and that the trigger and hammer need to be moved (cocked or uncocked). This doesn't appear to be possible.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what I need to do next?

Many thanks!!
 
If the gun is still timed correctly and the action works, take it to the range and unload it. Then you will be able to take ship it to Ruger or take it to a gunsmith :neener:

In all seriousness if you have to cock the hammer etc. to work on it and take it apart then go ahead and unload it. First things first.

What happens when you tried to cock the hammer? Can you push the cylinder release in? Does it not move? What type of crud are we talking about? Where was it stored? Your post generates more questions, not answers.
 
I would carefully remove whatever parts you can. Liberal soaking in whatever solvent you can, do not worry about solvent soaking the cartridges, they are trash anyway.
 
After soaking a good penetrating oil for a few days, if you can't get anything loose, before trying anything drastic give it a couple of whacks on the back strap or grip area with a plastic hammer or a wooden hammer handle . This may just break the rust connection between the parts that are stuck . Just remember you are just trying to weaken or break the rust connection then let it soak in the penetrating oil somemore. You haven't had use of this gun for 2 years , a week or two in something to desolve the rust is not a long time. Keep us informed on how it is going.
 
Is the cylinder latch frozen, or does it move but the cylinder won't swing out? If the latter, press the latch as far as you can and try using a rubber mallet (sold at auto stores) to knock the cylinder free. Don't get carried away, but frozen cylinders will usually come free pretty easily if the latch unlocks.

Jim
 
Response to your Suggestions

adweisbe: I can't cock the hammer and I can't get the cylinder release to work so I can't unload it. The hammer and the trigger will each move a couple of millimeters, but that's about it. I can't budge the cylinder release.

I had left the gun in the spare tire wheel well in my trunk. It was at the bottom so all the dirt fell on it. It was covered with a material that looked like potting soil.

Brian Williams: Do you see any problem trying to remove the trigger or hammer while the gun is loaded? I am hopeful that the solvent I used deactivated the primers.

1911Tuner, gamachinst, and Brian Williams: I'm not familiar with Kroil, PB Blaster or Ed's Red. Are they organic solvents? The DuPont Prep_Sol is an organic solvent used to remove oil and grease from automotive sheet metal prior to painting. Do you think any of these other solvents would be much different?

I soaked the gun in Prep-Sol for about three days. There was no discoloration of the Prep-Sol (it's a clear, colorless liquid). This suggests to me that there wasn't much oil or grease in the crud that's clogged up my gun.

Thanks for your help! I'll welcome any other comments you care to make.
 
It sound like something is either jammed up inside or broken. I would try to take it apart, If I remember correctly the first thing you do is to cock the hammer and pin the main spring.

At least taking off the grips will give you an idea if something is inside it and is not allowing you to cock it.


Go here and get the manual
http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/PDF/InstructionManuals/15.pdf
 
"Liquid Wrench" - spray or soak

Try blowing out the debris from inside the action with compressed air.

Good Luck
 
soaking it

if the sp is rusted up ,kerosene& trans fluid soak will desolve rust i use 1to1 ratio,the rustyer it is the longer it will take!if you have it wiggling it wont be long ,try tapping lightly on the cyl release, the cyl release screw is loctited in solid, ime taking a rubber mallet & tapping the whole revolver will shake everything7 start it to loosen(just 1exp with this )
GP100man
 
I had a thought , if the hammer won't go back ,is it possible that vibration has caused one of the bullets to move forward into the bore, thus preventing anything to move? I can't see it happening with commercial ammo but maybe with lead reloads. If this was the case tapping it back into the cylinder and case would solve the problem. Probably something not that simple.
 
I know this may sound kind of silly but after 10 years of working offshore in a saltwater environment I have seen just about everything that could be rusted together........If the parts will move even just a bit, WATER will break the rust way before any oil or solvent. Put it in your sink and let some cold water run on it while moving the parts. It may take a little time but they will come free. I have used water on many different items and it has worked 100% of the time. If they are rusted tightly together and will not move at all you may have to tap them with something just to get the most minute movement, then all it takes is a little time and effort.

Once they are free, remove the remaining rust, clean and oil.
 
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