I have a 10/22 that some one threaded the barrel, removing the front sight dovetail. I want a front sight. I did a search and some people said silver solder with easy/soft solder and some said jb power weld. I have done alot of silver soldering to nonferrous metals. no experience with brazing/soldering steel. I don't want to mess up the tempering but power weld sounds weak to me. And if i used solder, I would prefer medium or hard personally. Any thoughts?
Jb weld or silver solder
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maxxhavoc
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I wouldn't mess with it. Look for used 10/22 barrels, enough folks swap them with bull barrels to make them easy to find and cheap - usually under $50.
Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-Blued-18-5-rifle-barrel-FACTORY-OEM-adjustable-sights-brass-bead-/131616395351?hash=item1ea4f2d057
You can probably sell the threaded barrel for more than you pay for the one you buy.
Like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruger-10-22-Blued-18-5-rifle-barrel-FACTORY-OEM-adjustable-sights-brass-bead-/131616395351?hash=item1ea4f2d057
You can probably sell the threaded barrel for more than you pay for the one you buy.
kid_couteau
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Heck I got a few laying around I would sell reasonable
Kid
Kid
Kp321
Member
I agree a replacement barrel is the answer. If that was not the case, a gun with a fixed barrel for instance, a new dovetail would be the correct solution. Neat and permanent.
earplug
Member
Drill and tap
I'm sure a sight base can be found that fits.
I like the idea of finding a take off barrel cheap.
I'm sure a sight base can be found that fits.
I like the idea of finding a take off barrel cheap.
Sunray
Member
JB Weld is just epoxy with steel powder in it instead of fibreglass. Use the silver solder. Doesn't require enough heat to bother anything.
Remove the bluing with emery cloth just on the spot(place it and scribe round the base) you're putting the sight first and solder just like you would non-ferrous. No idea why the bluing has to come off. It's how I was taught.
Remove the bluing with emery cloth just on the spot(place it and scribe round the base) you're putting the sight first and solder just like you would non-ferrous. No idea why the bluing has to come off. It's how I was taught.
silver solder
The bluing has to come off because the solder won't stick to it.
Use the flux that comes with the sliver solder. It's easy to do and it's easy to re-do if you don't get it right the first time. Go easy with the heat. It melts at a lower temperature than the PbSn stuff.
The bluing has to come off because the solder won't stick to it.
Use the flux that comes with the sliver solder. It's easy to do and it's easy to re-do if you don't get it right the first time. Go easy with the heat. It melts at a lower temperature than the PbSn stuff.
Longhorn 76
Member
The silver solder I use from Brownell's is much stronger than soft (lead/tin) solder, but takes MORE heat, not less.
Onward Allusion
Member
Sell the threaded barrel, buy a replacement OEM barrel, spend the extra cash you end up with on ammo.
I would check with a gunsmith first to see what it would cost to have a new dovetail cut, and make a decision based on that.
If you are very patient and take it slow and easy, you might even be able to cut a dovetail yourself with files. If you mess up, you can always replace the barrel.
P.S. soldering on a sight probably won't work, because the small sight does not have enough contact surface, and glue (JB Weld) won't be strong enough.
Jim
If you are very patient and take it slow and easy, you might even be able to cut a dovetail yourself with files. If you mess up, you can always replace the barrel.
P.S. soldering on a sight probably won't work, because the small sight does not have enough contact surface, and glue (JB Weld) won't be strong enough.
Jim
Have a gunsmith cut a new dovetail and install a sight. I wouldn't even consider anything else. Or just replace the barrel, they're cheap enough. I think I even have an extra one somewhere. A threaded barrel wouldn't be a bad thing to keep around, you might want a suppressor someday.
I want to keep the barrel I got. I thought jb weld was a far fetched idea. I was surprised when I read people suggesting it. I just have more time than money, so I was trying to do the job myself. The front sight is a dove tailed hood ramp. My father in law has all the tools I need to drill and tap the barrel. I'm in no rush. The gun is scoped dedicated but if the scope fails I just want back up sights. I will keep exploring and asking questions. But my JB weld question has been answered. Thanx guys and anymore advise is welcome or pointers. I plan on doing this myself, so any good advice is welcome. Wether it's for soldering, taping or cutting a dove tail. But I'm confident cutting a dovetail is out for me!
dfariswheel
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Note that there's a lot of confusion over "silver solders".
There's silver "BEARING" soft solder that's a soft solder that has about 3% silver content to prevent tarnishing.
This melts around 450 degrees.
This is the "silver solder" you find in hardware stores.
Then there's real silver solder or "hard solder", actually silver braze. This melts around 1100 degrees.
This is usually found only in gunsmithing houses like Brownell's and some welding and refrigeration supply houses.
This requires a special flux not usable with soft solder.
Soft solder will not adhere to bluing so it has to be removed before soldering.
Soft solder fluxes will instantly remove bluing wherever it comes in contact.
When soft soldering it's common for the flux to bubble out from the joint when heated and ruin the bluing.
Doing soft soldering and not damaging the blue is rather an art and luck.
Real silver solder/braze requires a red heat to melt and this heat will destroy the bluing or other finish, requiring a re-finish.
However, silver braze is far stronger then any soft solder and that's how the factories attach many sights these days.
Another possible option is Loctite "Black Max".
This is a super glue type bonder mixed with a black rubbery binder.
It's sold by Brownell's for mounting shotgun sights.
Done right it can be very durable because the rubbery binder absorbs recoil shock and prevents the sight from popping off like it usually will if an epoxy like JB Weld is used.
For a .22, having the barrel drilled and tapped, or having a dovetail cut is the preferred method of mounting a barrel sight.
There's silver "BEARING" soft solder that's a soft solder that has about 3% silver content to prevent tarnishing.
This melts around 450 degrees.
This is the "silver solder" you find in hardware stores.
Then there's real silver solder or "hard solder", actually silver braze. This melts around 1100 degrees.
This is usually found only in gunsmithing houses like Brownell's and some welding and refrigeration supply houses.
This requires a special flux not usable with soft solder.
Soft solder will not adhere to bluing so it has to be removed before soldering.
Soft solder fluxes will instantly remove bluing wherever it comes in contact.
When soft soldering it's common for the flux to bubble out from the joint when heated and ruin the bluing.
Doing soft soldering and not damaging the blue is rather an art and luck.
Real silver solder/braze requires a red heat to melt and this heat will destroy the bluing or other finish, requiring a re-finish.
However, silver braze is far stronger then any soft solder and that's how the factories attach many sights these days.
Another possible option is Loctite "Black Max".
This is a super glue type bonder mixed with a black rubbery binder.
It's sold by Brownell's for mounting shotgun sights.
Done right it can be very durable because the rubbery binder absorbs recoil shock and prevents the sight from popping off like it usually will if an epoxy like JB Weld is used.
For a .22, having the barrel drilled and tapped, or having a dovetail cut is the preferred method of mounting a barrel sight.
Thanks for that. I'm familiar with true silver solder. If I go that route I will use medium or hard solder. I have both. My only concern with these are the high temps to get them to flow. I don't want to compromise the tempering of the barrel. I'm not worried about hurting the finish. I have access to both a bead blaster and parkarizing tank. I've also blued more than one gun in my time.
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Onward Allusion
Member
Don't make a permanent change. Take a look at snap-on shotgun sights for .410 shotguns. They will snap right onto the outside of the barrel.
http://www.amazon.com/Truglo-Glo-Do...1444220615&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+sights+410
Another option would be to use 3M outdoors mounting tape that is rated at 25 lbs and a stick-on shotgun bead. Don't want to use tape? Use crazy glue.
http://www.amazon.com/Truglo-Fiber-...8&qid=1444221224&sr=8-3&keywords=shotgun+bead
You can even use the same method with most 10/22 sights.
Gotta keep a couple of things in mind. It's a 22LR not a 300 Win Mag. JB Weld or solder is overkill & pretty darn permanent.
http://www.amazon.com/Truglo-Glo-Do...1444220615&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+sights+410
Another option would be to use 3M outdoors mounting tape that is rated at 25 lbs and a stick-on shotgun bead. Don't want to use tape? Use crazy glue.
http://www.amazon.com/Truglo-Fiber-...8&qid=1444221224&sr=8-3&keywords=shotgun+bead
You can even use the same method with most 10/22 sights.
Gotta keep a couple of things in mind. It's a 22LR not a 300 Win Mag. JB Weld or solder is overkill & pretty darn permanent.
jmorris
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You won't be able to dovetail unless you move it back a ways or it will be too low. As the 10/22 barrel is thicker where the sight mounted at the muzzle before they threaded it.
I would trust silver solder long before JB weld.
I TIG welded the sight on one of my SBR builds but if you are just wanting to get back to factory here must be thousands of them sitting in closets around the country.
I would trust silver solder long before JB weld.
I TIG welded the sight on one of my SBR builds but if you are just wanting to get back to factory here must be thousands of them sitting in closets around the country.
If you must use a solder for siights, remember that the inside of the barrel can get hot enough to cause burning and pitting of the rifling, Heat stop paste will protect the bluing on the outside, but getting it into the barrel is a pain, and something most people don't even think about.
Jim
Jim
BBBBill
Member
Jim K said:
True that. I use a large syringe to get it into the bore.
MislMan
Member
Maybe modify a thread protector to house the front sight.
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