Kershaw Leek owners: Who switched the clip?

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CNYCacher

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If you own a Kershaw Leek, did you switch the clip around when you first got it? The leek has a set of holes already drilled and tapped in the frame to switch the clip so it points in the other direction.

With the clip in the stock orientation, I found that I had to spin the knife in my hand after pulling it from my pocket to open it. With the clip reversed, it comes into my hand from my pocket in the exact same position it will be in with the blade opened, I only need to flip the tailfin to open the blade, never losing a secure grip on the handle.

When I first got the knife my only complaint was having to spin it after drawing it from my pocket. As soon as I noticed the second set of mounting holes for the clip, I switched it and I have loved it ever since. I recently met a guy in Bass Pro and noticed the head of his Leek sticking out of his pocket, on mine the tail sticks out. I showed him what I had done, and he loved it, he went directly to Sears looking for the Torx driver to get those screws out with.

So, to you proud Leek owners out there, have you switched your clip? If not, I suggest you try it!

Picture of Leek showing alternate clip mounting holes:
leek4.jpg

Ignore the three screws along the spine of the handle, and the one large lanyard hole. See the two holes that remain? They are the exact angle and distance apart as the mounting screws for the clip. You will need a small Torx screwdriver, I forget the size. But those holes come already tapped to accept the clip's screws.
 
I've got the partially serrated Leek and tried it as soon as I pulled it out of the package. I thought it felt like tail stuck out of my pocket almost too much, so I switched it back. However, I was thinking about this earlier, and don't think I gave it enough time to really get use to, so I'm gonna switch it back and do a field test over the next few days. I'm also thinking about tying a length of 550 cord (plenty of it around base) through the lanyard holes to give a little something to grab. Maybe I'll put a little skull bead or something on it to make it cooler. haha

I do have a question for you, though. Did you have to loosen the blade pivot screw to let your blade flick out faster, or just work with it a while? Mine seems a little stiff right now, and only flicks out easily about 90% of the time.

P.S. The torx screwdriver size to just change the clip is T6, though buying a T9 size one as well will let you completely disassemble the knife.
 
I got my Balck serrated Leek yesterday, and switched it about an hour after i got it home from the post office. BTW, mine works great every time, so far probly at least 1000 flicks, ya know, just for fun:D
 
I had 2 Leeks.

I never changed the clip.
Worked for me as I practiced with the bone stock set up.
I am one to not fix what is not broke. I am one not to meddle with something new until I test it, use it enough to see if any changes for my tasks are really needed. Same as I do firearms.

First thing I did on my Leeks - was remove the safety feature to prevent opening - That "Mr. Murphy show up at wrong time bit".

First Leek : during a storm and awful weather, I used it to cut someone out of seat belt. With everything going on - the clip became caught [ real good chance I did not secure it very well back onto pocket and clip became caught, pulled "away" [sprung] and ended up breaking it off on purpose - I needed a knife "right then" not a pretty something to carry. I was kinda busy and when help arrived we were all real busy and worried about stuff like Leeks breaking clips, getting stepped on and asphalt scratching, blood, rain, ...having an ambulance run over it...

Ended up losing that knife that night - no big deal, only a tool and the situation being the accident and folks safe - more important than the value of that knife.

2nd one, well them stupid torx screws are being cussed by anyone - no matter what brand and how much one pays for.

I snugged mine again - with clear nail polish. Poor man's Loctite.

Again - in being used a a tool, clip failed and knife ended up in a Mulcher - yeah the ones they feed tree branches into.

Just remembered - I had a Chive too...matters a bit hectic down Xavier Breath's way...suspect the clip again was caught and lost...kinda busy at the time.

--

Now I like the clip idea because it did not wear out pockets and was handy to get one handed.

Then again growing up we did not have clips on knives. WE also had friggin flat head and sometimes phillips heads on stuff - practical , functional and easy to maintain.

I am fed up and sick to death of goopy torx and whatnot heads.

1911 was designed to be a tool unto itself - the sear spring would take off the stocks - flat head screws. My sear springs do not have a allen, or funky torx head on them...arrgghh!

Seriously, Leek / Chive was okay - except very slippery when wet.

Going back to my roots - may very well go back to using a "fob" - just a pc of leather that goes thru hole in the knife and hangs outside of pocket.


WE did this growing up, kept knife from bottom of pocket and causing wear, still easy to get to one handed , easy to put back in pocket - and no stupid proprietary , goopy, tacticool screw heads.

Then again I do have back pockets, my handkerchief never complained about a knife back there keeping 'em company...

Currently - I do not have a "kewl clippit knife" - lived all these years without one, learned to not learn on a "crutch" ...I have a SAK classic I am using.

In the truck door pocket - a $1. 98 Old Hickory carbon steel knife - sharp as a razor, hold its edge and easy to touch up as need.

More I read forums and see the Marketing - the more I want to turn 180* and go back to how raised...how raised still works, and will continue to when the next marketing fad hits.

Besides - I can hold onto the base of a glass Coke bottle - bust the neck off it and have a very fast, very effective, edged weapon.

One of the nastiest victims I ever saw was a guy killed by a 40 oz beer bottle , and his Carotid was severed.

WE had him to harvest his organs.

Not tacticool - still it stopped an immediate threat.

Perusing knive sites - Noticed some high dollar knives ~ $300 , and no clips...had leather laynards/ fobs though. ;)


Just my experiences and thoughts...
 
Pivot

FSCJedi said:
I do have a question for you, though. Did you have to loosen the blade pivot screw to let your blade flick out faster, or just work with it a while? Mine seems a little stiff right now, and only flicks out easily about 90% of the time.

There are three screws which hold the two halves of the frame together along what i would call the "spine" of the frame. The one closer to the pivot end of the frame seems to control the flick speed. I learned this when i disassembled and reassembled the knife once for cleaning. I put those three screws back in too tightly and it wouldn't flick anymore.

It is possible to slow the blade down by over-tightening the pivot screw as well, but if loosening the pivot screw doesn't seem to fix it before the blade gets wobbly, try the three screws on the spine.
 
I switched the clip on mine.

I carry all my knives for easy access left handed, which means I have to not only have the clip on the other side, but I like the blade opening in the down position, so it is in my pocket the way it would be in my hand.
 
Tip up is the way God intended tactical folders to be carried.
 
I'm a lefty so I switched the clip. All's well now. I bought mine today; it's the plain edge model. I just noticed the Leek won a knife of the year award in 2002. Cool...
 
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