Kit guns, how much work? And other questions

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Jenrick

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After going shooting with some friends and shooting BP for the first time (in both a flintlock and a percussion cap rifle) I've got a large and urgent need to acquire a black powder rifle (I'm sure this is familiar to all of you). I've decided on a rifle in the traditional vein is what I'm after, for a variety of reasons.

After doing some looking on line at Dixie Gun works, they seem to have a variety of good kits for building rifles. The cost savings is usually not very substantial, and possibly non existent once you look at the need to finish the stock, blue the barrel etc. However I enjoy working with my hands, and the thought of shooting a rifle I put together myself is a pleasant one.

Is building a kit rifle merely screwing the hardware into the appropriate places and some wood/metal finishing? Or is it more along the lines of building a good centerfire rifle or 1911, were there's going to be filing, grinding, and wailing and nashing of teeth? Even if its relatively simple assembly, is it something that for the best results I should have some BP experience to adjust for small minor things?

I don't want my first BP rifle to turn into a negative experience and thus put me off of a new shooting discipline due to my own faulty assembly. If it would be easier to just pay the extra $40-$100 and go with a factory built then I have no problem doing that. However if it basically is just some wood stain, drilling a few pilot holes, and learning how to rust brown then I think it would a great way to get started.

Thoughts?

What are some good books on shooting black powder rifles, of the lose powder (ie non cartridge) variety?

Any companies to avoid or that have strong recommendations? I've obviously heard of Dixie and they seem to have a fairly good reputation. I'm most interested currently in civil war reproductions of "rifle muskets", springfield 1861 and the like.

Thanks for the advice,

-Jenrick

PS Anyone looking to sell a rifle....?
 
I've built only two kit guns one from Dixie and one from Thompson Center. They were both similar. The lock and hardware are finished ready to install the barrels were both semi finished requiring draw filing and finish sanded before blueing or browning. The stocks were nearly complete needing fine inletting.
 
You can pretty much pick your own poison when buying a kit gun. Bad analogy, but it gets my point across: they are available in everything from bags of blank parts where skilled, experienced craftsmanship in both metal and wood working is necessary to shrink-wrapped put-together almost finished guns that anyone familiar with basic home tools could do in a couple of weeks.

The folks at The Muzzleloading Forum run the gamut of experience in such things and can provide excellent guidance. Get to know them, especially on The Gun Builder's Bench subforum.
 
Crawl, Walk, Run!

To give you the best experience, I would suggest starting with a completed caplock. Your initial experience needs to be uncomplicated by mechanical problems, so use a rifle that isn't having problems as a result of improper assembly. After you shoot this rifle for a year or two, you will know how it should work - then you can build one.

Start with a caplock, learn the drill of loading and firing, and build your proficiency. Ask questions, hang around experienced shooters, watch how they make the rifle and gear work.

I have a lyman percussion great plains rifle that taught me the drill, and now I work with a lyman flintlock. I have contemplated building one or restocking an austin halleck flinter that I have, but have only SEEN the kits so far. The kits will give you headaches before you get a workable rifle.

Don't forget to check gunshows!! I got my lyman flinter (almost new) for $250 at a gunshow. many guys don't know BP rifles, so you might find a bargain. Good Luck!
 
Dixie will tell you the level of difficulty with their kits. Most of the less difficult will basicly require some small stock fit adjustments, stock staining and finishing, barrel finishing to the extent of blue or browning. And you would do good to order another upgrade nipple if you get percussion.

Flinters can lead to some extra work in adjusting the fire path from the pan to the charge. I've had this problem.

Unless you want to customize the gun beyond the kit pieces...like add patch boxes and inlays to a Kentucky rifle.... I'd advise you to just pay the extra ten or fifteen percent and get the finished model.
 
To start get the finished rifle. Go shoot. If you get a kit you might not take the time to do your best because the bug to shoot will get you.

My first rifle was a Cabelas Hawken. It was a nice gun. I almost gave up on it because i bought a starter kit and the included patch material was too thin. I bought a book by Sam Fadala and learned how to load my gun and read the patches. It was pretty simple and now i get great accuracy and service from my guns.

I have built 4 guns from kits. It was fun but i think spending time casting balls and bullets and cutting patches from pillow ticking is time better spent. After i built the other guns i decided the first factory gun could be better so i stripped it down and refinished it.

After you get the first gun and you have the spare time by all means try a kit, Sometimes you can find them at garage sales cheap. My T/C hawken came to me this way.
 
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I have built several rifles from kits, for myself or for friends who lacked either the ability or ambition to do so.
Usually the job entails filing and polishing the brass furnature which is rough cast, draw filing, polishing and bluing(or browning) the barrel, and finishing the stock.
The stock work requires rasps ,files and sandpaper and with care a nice eye-catching rifle is the result.
Have fun.
Zeke
 
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Thanks for all the responses. I'll go with a fully built one to start w/ just so I don't have to worry about misassembly, and that way I can shoot it right away.

-Jenrick
 
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