Knife Sharpening Systems/Methods

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but it's easy to round tips if you're not really careful.

This is true. They are also pretty tough (very very tough) to use on a tanto blade. Without un-tanto-ing it.

As far as scratching though most people put black tape on the guide. Personally i just don't worry with it.
 
For 99% of the sharpening I need one of those square sharpeners with the carbide V on one end and a ceramic V on the other is all I need.

I’ve been carrying this guy

Work Sharp guided Field Sharpener
https://g.co/kgs/aCHm34

With me for hunting because it’s also a broad head tool.
 
I bought an old Hook Eye belt grinder many years ago, and I suppose it has spoiled me. I try not to grind an edge unless absolutely necessary, because it is too easy to lose the original blade geometry. Butcher steel keeps them going and when needed I will use a crock stick on the smaller blades. The belt grinder is my last resort, and never fails. During the holiday season it becomes a fixture on the bench as friends bring their dull knives over for a refresh. Best $30 I ever spent.

I suspect there are many old units out there, and support is available. Support link: https://www.usedmeatcuttingequipmen...ith-Your-Hook-Eye-Cutlery-Grinder-Let-Us-Help
 
I have a small knife sharpening business I work on the side of my regular job. I did a lot of research on different sharpening systems and found each have their pros and cons. I ended up buying a sharpening system by TS Prof (K02 model). It uses the same stones as the Edge Pro system so I buy those due to their high quality. Its not the fastest system out there but it puts a premium edge on knives and scissors. I charge a premium price for a premium edge and my customers are happy with the quality. Its a $500+ sharpening system and I would not have bought it if I wasn't doing it for business. For a home sharpener I really like the Spyderco Sharpmaker system and use that as well.
 
For a home sharpener I really like the Spyderco Sharpmaker system and use that as well.

I have something very similar to that. It was my dad's. Haven't used it in yearrrrrrrrs. I thought it was just supposed to be used in a manner similar to a honing steel (which I also have.)
 
I bought an old Hook Eye belt grinder many years ago, and I suppose it has spoiled me. I try not to grind an edge unless absolutely necessary, because it is too easy to lose the original blade geometry. Butcher steel keeps them going and when needed I will use a crock stick on the smaller blades. The belt grinder is my last resort, and never fails. During the holiday season it becomes a fixture on the bench as friends bring their dull knives over for a refresh. Best $30 I ever spent.

I suspect there are many old units out there, and support is available. Support link: https://www.usedmeatcuttingequipmen...ith-Your-Hook-Eye-Cutlery-Grinder-Let-Us-Help

How is that device any different from a Worksharp, or any other belt sander for that matter?
 
How is that device any different from a Worksharp, or any other belt sander for that matter?
The Hook-Eye is made for sharpening of packing plant and butcher shop knives. It has a platen to keep profiles straight, whereas the Ken Onion Worksharp uses a slack belt, which tends to produce a convex profile. Additionally, the Hook-Eye has an infinitely adjustable angle guide and a wire guide for cleavers and heavy blades. Some skill is required in managing heat, maintaining grind lines and protecting points from rounding, but once you have some time on it, sharpening is quick and straightforward. And it has a real induction-run motor, unlike the universal motors that use brushes and produce less motive force.
 
I used to use a belt sander with a 220ish belt and a leather stropping belt made to fit it with a little white buffing compound on it. I found that process actually softened the edges so i went back to stones. If you're not into sharpening, the best single stone I have found is a Norton Coarse/ Fine combo stone. I used mine dry, but it probably works a little better with oil.

If you're into sharpening, it doesnt matter. You'll never be satisfied and there will always be a "better" way to try.
 
I invested in a Lansky kit a few years ago. I think it's a testament to the original design that it can give good results despite the best efforts of Lansky to ruin the product. Given a lot of time and attention I could get things scary sharp but with the exception of the stones themselves, every single aspect of the kit was the absolute flimsiest cheap garbage imaginable and a misery to use. Rods (lengths of fencing wire) weren't straight to start with and bent without provocation, clamp loosened constantly, plastic stone holders had sharp edges and moulding flash all over, case didn't stay closed or retain items. The only way I could tell that it was a genuine $60+ Lansky kit and not a $9.99 chinabay knockoff was that the package contained a thick, glossy, luxuriously produced catalog touting all sorts of Lansky-branded backpacks, hatchets, torches and whatnot, it was the highest-quality item in the entire package. I used for a while but it was always a chore and done only when absolutely necessary.

Then I was given a Worksharp which looks almost as unimpressive but reliably gets things sharp in seconds without any effort or frustration. In the years since the only time I've touched the Lansky is to move it on the shelf (and be annoyed because the case inevitably springs open and something falls out).
 
I had the Ken Onion thing and it worked okay for a couple years or so. Then all the smoke leaked out. Apparently I was running it “too slow.” Now I use a really cheap 1x30 Harbor Freight bench grinder and belts from Phoenix Abrasives and it is much faster, though I had to get a friend to make me a sharpening jig because I am lame.
 
I invested in a Lansky kit a few years ago. I think it's a testament to the original design that it can give good results despite the best efforts of Lansky to ruin the product. Given a lot of time and attention I could get things scary sharp but with the exception of the stones themselves, every single aspect of the kit was the absolute flimsiest cheap garbage imaginable and a misery to use.

That's sad to hear. I bought my Lansky kit in 96 or 97. (Actually, I bought it for my Dad as a father's day gift, but he passed a few years later.) So I've been using it 20+ years. Mine is quite well made, but, as yo said, it takes a lot of time and attention to sharpen a knife.
 
I just use sandpaper. It's for kitchen knives, and it's good enough for me. Pushing the blade, drawing the blade, doing the blade in little circles... it all works.

But I have a tenant who has an elaborate sandpaper method that gets his knives razor sharp. He starts by going through the grits, then he switches to regular paper, covered in chalk, mounted on a large, smooth tile. He draws the blade backward as if he were stropping a razor.
 
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