I need some help getting an accurate charge from my lee double disc measure.I am trying to reload 223 and my dispencer is +/- .4-.5 grains using accurate 2230 powder.Has anybody had this problem but me and should I switch to lee's pro disc.It seems to measure real good for 40cal and accurate #5.HELP,this is driving me crazy with by the way is a short trip.:banghead:
Lee double disc powder measure
- Thread starter shootinxd
- Start date
- Status
Grandpa Shooter
Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2007
- Messages
- 948
How many grains are you trying to throw? That would be a logical starting point.
I will tell you what I do. I use Varget and can get the 23.5 grains in a single throw. However if you are having trouble getting a consistent throw you could do what I do. Find what throw you want and divide by two. Find the disk(s) which will give you that number of grains and simply cycle the ram twice at the powder station. My double disk set consistently throws .2g less than what it is "supposed" to so I just up the starting number and find what gives me the weight I want to use. If it is two large a volume for I cycle, I cut it in half, find the right disk(s) and go from there.
I will tell you what I do. I use Varget and can get the 23.5 grains in a single throw. However if you are having trouble getting a consistent throw you could do what I do. Find what throw you want and divide by two. Find the disk(s) which will give you that number of grains and simply cycle the ram twice at the powder station. My double disk set consistently throws .2g less than what it is "supposed" to so I just up the starting number and find what gives me the weight I want to use. If it is two large a volume for I cycle, I cut it in half, find the right disk(s) and go from there.
Yes, I've been there before. You can throw that powder charge accurately and repeatably. You need to be patient and try different combinations.
There are several combinations of cavities that equal the same charge. Go to the Lee table that lists the volume of each cavity and write down various combinations, then try them all.
But first, a few tips:
1. Of course, always put the larger hole on bottom. It won't work with the large hole on top. You already know that.
2. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that you get a FULL stroke of the lever so the disk gets full travel, all the way back until it stops then all the way forward until it dumps down the tube. I know this sounds elementary, but I've made that mistake before, too.
3. Coat everything from hopper lid to charging die, using powdered graphite liberally. It makes the powder flow completely and helps kill static. I tried all the usual static remedies, but liberal graphite on all surfaces solved the problem permanently.
There are several combinations of cavities that equal the same charge. Go to the Lee table that lists the volume of each cavity and write down various combinations, then try them all.
But first, a few tips:
1. Of course, always put the larger hole on bottom. It won't work with the large hole on top. You already know that.
2. Make ABSOLUTELY sure that you get a FULL stroke of the lever so the disk gets full travel, all the way back until it stops then all the way forward until it dumps down the tube. I know this sounds elementary, but I've made that mistake before, too.
3. Coat everything from hopper lid to charging die, using powdered graphite liberally. It makes the powder flow completely and helps kill static. I tried all the usual static remedies, but liberal graphite on all surfaces solved the problem permanently.
RustyFN
Member
I use the double disk for 223 with W748 and H335 and it seems to work good. When you use two different size holes make sure the smaller hole is in the top disk. If the smaller hole is in the bottom disk it will make a shelf and hold powder back making the drops inconsistent. You probably knew that already but I thought I should mention it in case.
Rusty
Rusty
Quickdraw McGraw
Member
Hey ants where would one find this powdered graphite you speak of?
evan price
Member
In the lock aisle of a hardware store/Lowes/Etc. it comes in small platic tubes like mini toothpaste tubes.
Or, take a crappy pencil you don't like, and rub it on very fine sandpaper for about ten minuteds.
Or, take a crappy pencil you don't like, and rub it on very fine sandpaper for about ten minuteds.
[email protected]
Member
Midway also sells the stuff, if you have a Boy scout office close by, call & ask if they have lube for the wheels on Pinewood derby cars, if they do it's graphite
As stated above, powdered graphite it is used as a dry lubricant in locks, machinery, pinewood derby, and other applications. It's cheapest to buy a pound or more in bulk. A small 3.4oz tube at the hardware store key desk is 3 to 6 bucks. You can buy a pound on ebay for about $15 plus shipping.
Graphite is what makes modern smokeless gunpowder look black. Nitro powder is actually white when manufactured, then graphite in the form of a finely powdered carbon polymorph is added to make it flow easily and to reduce static. You can't hurt anything by using it in your powder measure, and it works great.
Coat it everywhere you want powder to flow. Also use it inside the neck of a rifle case to lubricate the expander ball, just make a small pile of graphite and dip the necks in before sizing.
Graphite is what makes modern smokeless gunpowder look black. Nitro powder is actually white when manufactured, then graphite in the form of a finely powdered carbon polymorph is added to make it flow easily and to reduce static. You can't hurt anything by using it in your powder measure, and it works great.
Coat it everywhere you want powder to flow. Also use it inside the neck of a rifle case to lubricate the expander ball, just make a small pile of graphite and dip the necks in before sizing.
Quoheleth
Member
It might be cheaper by the pound, but that little tube will last a LONG time.
Q
Q
- Status