Loading Brass Shotshells with Blackpowder

[noelf2]

I don't see the need to do that lead base thing with bp loads.

Another thing I do with my magtech hulls because they are so shiney and smooth inside is to take some fine sandpaper and lightly rough up the inside rim a bit, down to where the overshot card will sit. Just enough to allow the elmers glue to grip the wall and keep the card in there. Only have to do that once. Other glues might not need that, but I like to use what I can get easily.

 

[JoshD]

I don't see the need to do that lead base thing with bp loads.



Another thing I do with my magtech hulls because they are so shiney and smooth inside is to take some fine sandpaper and lightly rough up the inside rim a bit, down to where the overshot card will sit. Just enough to allow the elmers glue to grip the wall and keep the card in there. Only have to do that once. Other glues might not need that, but I like to use what I can get easily.

Ok. Cool. Good tip about putting a bit if tooth on the brass.

Thanks.


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[Pete D.]

glue

I have tried Elmers, Locktite, Paraffin, Craft glue, Resin, Waterglass (liquid sodium silicate), Crazy glue (thick and thin) and Duco cement.
The best for ease of use and effect is Duco. The next best is Waterglass though it does not store well (a week or two is OK)
Pete

 

[JoshD]

I have tried Elmers, Locktite, Paraffin, Craft glue, Resin, Waterglass (liquid sodium silicate), Crazy glue (thick and thin) and Duco cement.

The best for ease of use and effect is Duco. The next best is Waterglass though it does not store well (a week or two is OK)

Pete

Locktite?!?

Didn't know that that would set up unless compressed.


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[Gaucho Gringo]

I am surprised no one has mentioned using once fired plastic hulls that you can pick up at the range for free. They may last only 1 or 2 firings with BP but the price is hard to beat. I bought a little HF cut off saw for less than $20.00 http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/cut-off-saws/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html to cut the hulls down. Load with BP and shot and go shoot. Cleanup is easy. Shoot them in my modern H&R for fun.

 

[noelf2]

Gaucho probably because in his original post he said he wants to make some "era appropriate shells".

 

[Pete D.]

Locktite. You are correct about setting up. Found that out....I tried it; it did not work.
Pete

 

[Gaucho Gringo]

Gaucho probably because in his original post he said he wants to make some "era appropriate shells".

Paper shells are also period correct from 1877 on. His gun is newer than that because "Frank Hollenbeck organized the Syracuse Arms Company and started gun production in 1893" per NRA History. You can buy 100 once fired paper hulls for the price of 2 or 3 brass ones. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Fe...-fired-hulls-100-per-bag/productinfo/FPAP121/

 

[JoshD]

Paper shells are also period correct from 1877 on. His gun is newer than that because "Frank Hollenbeck organized the Syracuse Arms Company and started gun production in 1893" per NRA History. You can buy 100 once fired paper hulls for the price of 2 or 3 brass ones. http://www.ballisticproducts.com/Fe...-fired-hulls-100-per-bag/productinfo/FPAP121/

Hummm. Interesting.

Good point. But, the forum is reloading brass hulls...[emoji12]

JK

Good idea. Wouldn't you need more of a full blown press setup? Just curious. I mean, to do the crimp and all. Paper is not something that I can put on my vice and hammer a primer into and dump some powder in? What is attractive about the brass ones is that the only specialized thing is the primer seater. Which, I picked one up from flea bay for $12.

I'm still scratching my head about the crimp thing though....[emoji848]

Josh


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