Loc-Tite ?

Status
Not open for further replies.

svtruth

Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2005
Messages
1,701
Location
Bradford, VT
Took the .454 lever gun out for a little exercise and shot the rear sight loose.
It is an aftermarket peep by Skinner Sights, the peep is on a threaded post, staked with a neat microscopic Allen screw, the sight fits in a dovetail on top of the barrel, similarly staked with a slightly larger Allen screw.
So, what type of Loc-Tite (or similar) do you all suggest to keep them where they belong?
Thanks in advance.
 
Blue #242.

It will hold the screws, but you can still get it apart at a later date if you have too.

Put some under the sight itself too.
It will "glass bed" it to the action so there is no possible sight movement to loosen the screws.

rc
 
Last edited:
+1 on Loctite Blue. It's very good stuff. It'll keep the sight from vibrating loose and can be broken with a screwdriver if you need to. I used to seal 1000 PSI air hoses for paintball guns with the stuff. 1 hour to perfect seal, every time, unlike teflon which was hit or miss.
 
Like rcmodel said, the 242. In fact, one can usually do almost anything he recommends.
And I never met him (yet).
 
Be careful with Loctite 290 (green wicking). It has its place and it is about as strong as 242 (blue). BUT; by design it creeps and can easily get into places it shouldn't.

Its best use is to put on threads after they are tightened at the joint where the faster enters the internal threads.
 
I know I have tried a few of them. Springfield had a fix for their recoil assembly one piece screw in guite rod. It recommended the green so I have been using that one, but by far am no expert. I know the red I had bought for a fix for a glock front site. Only because they recommended that one. there sure are a lot of variations.
 
Actually, for things like front and rear sights Loctite 290 works very well. It fills all the spaces and "beds" the sight. If the sight can't wiggle it can't work loose.

Just be careful with Glock front sights or any other sight that uses a blind screw. Only back the screw off about 1/2 turn before applying the 290 under the screw head so you don't get a hydraulic lock with the Loctite filling the blind space under the screw before you can tighten it.

Loctite has an excellent website where you can learn which grades are used for various purposes. Their products are intended for industrial use and a consumer needs to be educated a bit to get the best results.
 
Team-

I'm a Loctite (no hyphen) Factory Rep. out of south Louisiana since I had hair.

I wouldn't use a green, wicking grade 290 on small gun screws. The prevailing loosening torque may be high enough that as the fastener is removed the head of the fastener deflects and deforms. Breakloose torque is 90 in/lb with a prevailing loosening torque is 260 in/lb. This could be very bad.

I'd feel totally confident by using 222 (purple), a product designed for threaded fasteners smaller than 1/8". Breakloose Torque: 53 in/lb and a Prevailing loosening torque of 30 in/lb.

242 or the improved product, 243, would also be entirely appropriate to use.
Breakloose is 230 in/lb with a prevailing loosening torque of 40 in/lb

Chip
 
I have free reign over any and all Loctite products.

I'm with you, piddling around with our dirt bikes, I use 243 Blue, the 248 blue threadlocker on a stick 95% of the time. For the remaining 5% of the tie I find myself using 518 Gasket Eliminator, and 567PST Threadsealant.

Good to see you've settled on a few workhorse products that do most everything you need.

Chip
 
I guess Loctite 243 is to replace 242.

But I still have big containers of 242 I have not opened yet, and I use it very slowly in amateur gunsmithing.
 

Attachments

  • Loctite 242.jpg
    Loctite 242.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 9
if you need to remove a screw that has been loctited, apply heat with a soldering iron or tiny torch. The heat breaks down the bond
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top