Long Range Rifle/Scope/PRS question(s)

I was about .010 into the lands when I thought I was just barely off of them. I knew I was close and may be just touching, but didn't think I was in that far.
 
The nice fellow at Foundations Stocks told me I would have to relieve the Area 419 rail at the rear because the Foundation has a slight rise in it from the rail in the stock to the front action screw, as well as some curve in the bottom metal after that.

I used a 4" angle grinder, a small bench grinder, and sandpaper to take some off on the bottom of the rail and round the end that will sit almost against the magwell. I drilled out the smaller diameter of the rear hole where they intend for you to use the front action screw to attach the rail at the rear. I have plenty of holes and slot to get two T-Nuts in the rear and three in the front. I drilled the hole out so I can remove the front action screw if needed without removing the rail. I need to touch it up with some paint and mount it.

Nothing special, and a mill would have done a prettier job, but this part of the rail doesn't really need to do much.
Area 419 Arca Lock Rail Pic 2.jpg Area 419 Arca Lock Rail Pic 3.jpg Area 419 Arca Lock Rail Pic 5.jpg
 
The nice fellow at Foundations Stocks told me I would have to relieve the Area 419 rail at the rear because the Foundation has a slight rise in it from the rail in the stock to the front action screw, as well as some curve in the bottom metal after that.

I used a 4" angle grinder, a small bench grinder, and sandpaper to take some off on the bottom of the rail and round the end that will sit almost against the magwell. I drilled out the smaller diameter of the rear hole where they intend for you to use the front action screw to attach the rail at the rear. I have plenty of holes and slot to get two T-Nuts in the rear and three in the front. I drilled the hole out so I can remove the front action screw if needed without removing the rail. I need to touch it up with some paint and mount it.

Nothing special, and a mill would have done a prettier job, but this part of the rail doesn't really need to do much.
View attachment 855375 View attachment 855376 View attachment 855377
I was only gone a couple days , man you’ve been busy...
I’ll need to do some reading
 
It shot very well, at least as well as the fire forming load which shot well. I have some leftover rounds I will seat a bit deeper and try, plus I need to fire form 100 more cases.
 
What I am using to load the Dasher.

Wilson threaded FL bushing die
Wilson Micro hand die seater
Wilson case holder for trimmer
Whidden shoulder gauge (Works awesome)

I considered a set of Whidden dies, and I am sure they would be just fine, but ultimately went with Wilson.

index.php
 
What I am using to load the Dasher.

Wilson threaded FL bushing die
Wilson Micro hand die seater
Wilson case holder for trimmer
Whidden shoulder gauge (Works awesome)

I considered a set of Whidden dies, and I am sure they would be just fine, but ultimately went with Wilson.

index.php
Is this the Whidden unit you are using:
https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/case-gauge-3/

Or this one ?
https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/shoulder-bump-gauge/

Might not be bad to have both....

Thanks,

Russellc
 
I actually do have both, but am using the "Case Gauge", not the "Shoulder Bump Gauge". It works great.
case_gauge.jpg

After my first order (Which included the SBG) they gave me a coupon for I don't
remember what/how much off the next order, and since I had almost ordered
the Case Gauge the first time anyway, I went back and ordered it, I am such a
sucker for cool reloading toys.

The Shoulder Bump Gauge would work just as well though.

I use some home made "Shoulder Bump Gauges" on other calibers, and they work just fine.
300 Blackout Shoulder Gauge Pic 7.JPG
 
When my gunsmith rebarrels my rifle they usually cut a few inches off the end of the blank. Then they chuck maybe 1” length of scrap barrel up and use the Reamer to make a shoulder in it. It looks just like what’s in walklongs last pic and let’s you reliably measure distance from the shoulder.
 
When my gunsmith rebarrels my rifle they usually cut a few inches off the end of the blank. Then they chuck maybe 1” length of scrap barrel up and use the Reamer to make a shoulder in it. It looks just like what’s in walklongs last pic and let’s you reliably measure distance from the shoulder.
That is what I had for my Benchrest gun.
 
I actually do have both, but am using the "Case Gauge", not the "Shoulder Bump Gauge". It works great.
View attachment 856154

After my first order (Which included the SBG) they gave me a coupon for I don't
remember what/how much off the next order, and since I had almost ordered
the Case Gauge the first time anyway, I went back and ordered it, I am such a
sucker for cool reloading toys.

The Shoulder Bump Gauge would work just as well though.

I use some home made "Shoulder Bump Gauges" on other calibers, and they work just fine.
View attachment 856153

Same here, a tool and gadget junkie. I have a similar device from Wilson, and RCBS precision mic and various comparators from Hornady. Don't think I can resist this one!

Thanks,

Russellc
 
When my gunsmith rebarrels my rifle they usually cut a few inches off the end of the blank. Then they chuck maybe 1” length of scrap barrel up and use the Reamer to make a shoulder in it. It looks just like what’s in walklongs last pic and let’s you reliably measure distance from the shoulder.
That is what I had for my Benchrest gun.

An old and not so great pic of my 6 PPC "barrel button" as we called them, but you can see where the reamer cut the neck and a tiny bit of the shoulder in the piece of an old barrel.

6PPC Bump Button.JPG
 
The link doesn't work for me.

You can use the Wilson case gauge to measure where the shoulder is prior to and after sizing because it is cut generously in the body and fired brass will usually slip into it. No extra gadget needed. Use the depth part of the dial or digital caliper to measure how deep (or not) in the gauge the case is before and after.
 
My old Sinclair hand primer is awesome, but it would not seat CCI-450's deep enough in Lapua 6 BR brass (Barely below flush).

The Grizzly bench primer will seat them deep enough, but I didn't really care for the feel of it. I'm being very picky here, because it is a very good tool and works.

That said I have been eyeballing the 21st Century hand primer for years and this gave me an excuse to buy one (All the excuse I needed anyway.)

It works wonderfully. Smooth, feels great in the hand, very well made, a first class tool. I ordered the "Super Precision" one, and it adjusts right at .00125 like it says.

The Lapua 6 BR primer pockets are right at .125 deep and the primers with the anvil out before they are seated are right at .121, so seated flush the anvil isn't even touching the primer pocket bottom, much less pushed into the cup a bit. To the Impacts credit it was still setting them off, but that is far from optimal. With the 21st Century priming tool I now have them seating .005 deep into the pocket, so the anvil is now at the bottom of the pocket. Gonna try them right there.
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Grizzly Priming Tool.jpg
 
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that looks an awful lot like the sinclair tool. what's the difference?
 
The way it adjusts, the Sinclair has round shims/washers that you have to add/subtract. I was very surprised when it would not seat the CCIs deep enough.

The 21st Century is click adjustable by turning the knurled top.
 
The Sinclair. Yes, they are very similar.
Sinclair Hand Primer.JPG

Sinclair pic. (Slightly different than my old one.)
p_749007603_1.jpg
 
The link doesn't work for me.

You can use the Wilson case gauge to measure where the shoulder is prior to and after sizing because it is cut generously in the body and fired brass will usually slip into it. No extra gadget needed. Use the depth part of the dial or digital caliper to measure how deep (or not) in the gauge the case is before and after.

Odd, link works for me, it goes to MidwayUSA, device is called L.E. Wilson Case gauge depth micrometer.

Russellc
 
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