Looking at used bows (recurves)

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gga357

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Albuquerque, New Mexico
IF you can offer any advice about used bows I would appriciate the help. Any lessons learned or do's and don'ts. I am looking at Bear and Martin. I want a #45 or #50 recurve. Not interested in compounds. What can be fixed and what can't? Cracks?
 
Many older bows are going to have some finish cracks on them. It pretty much the nature of the beast. For the most part these are just cosmetic problems and the bow is safe to fire. You could always use a bit of flexible epoxy to seal the crack up. If it is a deep crack it is best to avoid the bow though.

Recurve bows and longbows are much more fun in my opinion than compound bows with all the cheating sights and pulleys and stuff. I like my left handed Bear 45 ib Grizzly.
 
Thanks for the info. I am looking at a used tigercat in nice shape. If it does not come with a string do I buy one that is 4" inches shorter than.... what lenght? Also where does the notch thing-a-ma-jig go on the string? The arrow should be perpendicular to the bow at full draw????
 
Most Bear bows I know are usually 5 inches shorter than the bow length, while traditionally it is 4 inches. Many bows have the string length inscribed on the bow. You can always send Bear off an email to ask them how long you want it.
 
The Nock will be on same place on the bow drawn or not drawn. I grew up hunting with a Recurve. I hunted with a Shakespears 45# and Browning 40#. Never leave your bow strung when not in use.
I would look at a new bows. Since Compound bows took over in mid 70's and early 80's. Most Bows are going be at least 30 plus years old.
 
Tigercats are decent bows. Use a B50 string only, no fast flight.

Start with a brace height of 7 3/4" and increase to tune the bow. Just twist the string to change brace height. Nock point about 1/2" above parallel to the shelf or rest. Always use a stringer unless you're familiar with other stringing methods.

Martin (Damon Howatt) and Bear have made bows every year from the 50's through today.

There are also lot's of bows that are in great condition even from the 50's and 60's.

All bows that are backed with fiberglass or carbon can be left strung forever as song as it's not standng on end in a corner or exposed to high heat.
I leave my daily shooter strung but unstring all of my others.
Self bows or bows without glass backing need to be unstrung every day.
 
^ what that poster said.

I would only add that you can purchase a bow-square and nock pliers with a handful of spare nocks very inexpensively, so it's quite cheap to do it right yourself at home. Any local sporting goods place can sell you these tools.

I shoot and hunt with an old 1970's recurve that's losing the outer finish but is still a solid performer.
 
An unhealed elbow fracture ruined my recurve shooting. But I had two bows which were very well made:

- Wing Archery Co. "Redwing Hunter" featuring 58 inch bow at 45 lbs.

- Owen Jeffreys custom take down featuring 62 in bow at 55 lbs.

Both bows were accurate and very light. I suggest taking a strong look at Martin Hatfield because it's nearly identical to the Jeffreys bow. Other great bows by Martin can be found under the name Damon Howatt. He was their Master Bowyer for many years.

TR
 
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