Loose ejector rod

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In my experience, the amount matters. I have used a single drop of red, where blue would have been more appropriate, and later was able to unscrew the thing with just a bit of heat.

I also have a project where I coated the whole thing with red and now wish I had not. I have used heat to the point that I was afraid of melting the whole mess and still cannot get it to come apart.

At this moment I am a fan of blue as it seems to hold where I want it to and come apart when I need.

On the whole, I think I will stick with single actions.
 
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Howdy

Just curious which direction your rod screws/unscrews.

Way back around 1961 S&W changed the thread on ejector rods from right hand to left hand, because the natural rotation of the cylinder could tend to unscrew the rod.

I have lots of old Smiths, and a few of them I have to remember to tighten the rod every once in a while or they it backs out just a tad and makes it difficult to open the cylinder for loading and unloading. The rod only has to unscrew part of a turn to bind up the cylinder so it won't open. That's why they went to the reverse thread.

I'm guessing your revolvers are new enough to have the reverse thread. Instead of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, it would be the reverse.
 
Howdy

Just curious which direction your rod screws/unscrews.

Way back around 1961 S&W changed the thread on ejector rods from right hand to left hand, because the natural rotation of the cylinder could tend to unscrew the rod.

I have lots of old Smiths, and a few of them I have to remember to tighten the rod every once in a while or they it backs out just a tad and makes it difficult to open the cylinder for loading and unloading. The rod only has to unscrew part of a turn to bind up the cylinder so it won't open. That's why they went to the reverse thread.

I'm guessing your revolvers are new enough to have the reverse thread. Instead of righty-tighty, lefty-loosey, it would be the reverse.
Yep this is a new production gun. It’s reverse.
 
What makes the biggest difference in how well threadlocker works is how clean the threads are. Any oil keeps the compound fro sticking. With fine, tight-fitting threads, one small drop works just as good as two big drops. The excess is squeezed out and does not affect the adhesion. Clean the threads with lacquer thinner, acetone, non-chlorinated brake cleaner for good adhesion. With screws on guns I only use purple. Even blue can require heat to remove. With clean threads red can permanently lock fine threads, requiring destructive methods for disassembly.
 
Plumber's tape is still coming loose. I have purple Loctite on the way.
What are you doing to tighten the rod? I had my best results using vise-grips with emery paper for a pad. Cloth side on the rod, using care not to deform the rod by over-tightening the vise-grips..
 
What are you using to tighten the rod? I got one of these a few years ago I’ve never had a rod come loose and my revolvers get shot a lot.
There are many ways and tools to tighten the rod and I’m not trying to be a salesman. His works very well though a bit pricey but well made. Very handy to keep in range bag.
Ive used it on a couple of S&W revolvers that the owners had used various items like red Loctite and was able to remove rod with no damage.
https://gunsmithertools.com/shop?olsPage=products/xn-visesmith-a-unique-extractor-rod-tool-for-sw-revolvers-uhc74210c

Nice tool..
A wood spring-type clothes pin does the same job @ $1.29 per 50 pack?? HA.HA....Bill.
 
Nice tool..
A wood spring-type clothes pin does the same job @ $1.29 per 50 pack?? HA.HA....Bill.

Yup I’ve used clothes pin and about every other thing item or homemade tool but I have found this one has worked the best for me.
 
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