LRN vs FMJ

[Waveski]

I am working on laying in a retirement ammo supply. Looking to make a bulk purchase soon. I know that some shooters prefer non-jacketed lead bullets over FMJ , but I do not know why. I would be pleased to hear opinions on the pros and cons of the two different bullet types.

Looking forward to the input . 'Ski

 

[P5 Guy]

Gotta ask, for what caliber/gun?
My preference for revolvers would be lead semi-wad cutter. For semi-auto pistols full metal jacket.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Cost is the main factor for me. I use a lot of plated and coated bullets mostly because they are cleaner to work with than lead and cost less than jacketed.
I keep my eyes open for bargains and buy large quantities when I find a deal. Sometimes jacketed can be found at near plated prices.

 

[tcj]

I prefer coated bullets as you load them to lead specs but don't need lube and shouldn't lead the barrel.

My preference for lead (coated) are 1) that I can load them for lower velocity and therefore less recoil *especially for a revolver; and 2) they cost less.

 

[BobWright]

Uh, exactly what is a "retirement ammo supply?"

Bob Wright

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Uh, exactly what is a "retirement ammo supply?"

Bob Wright

If it was for me it would come on pallets.

 

[BobWright]

I shoot mostly cast/coated bullets for the economy of it. I do carry JHP in my daily going in and going out. My JHP load should penetrate less.

Bob Wright

 

[Waveski]

Use : da/sa revolvers , 38 special. Variety of S&W pre locks. Also , proficiency practice with J frame carries. Mostly your basic informal target and plinking.

 

[reddog81]

Cost is a main consideration. Typically SWC bullets are lead and these are well liked bullets. Lead bullet target loads can be loaded to pressures and velocities that would stick jacketed bullets in a barrel.

The problem with lead is that it might lead up your barrel. I'd be hestitant to buy a bulk quantity of any load before at least testing them in my guns.

 

[Waveski]

Mr. Wright ,

There is no "exactly' in regards to a what constitutes a retirement ammo supply. I'd have to say it varies widely depending on an individuals' shooting habits and purchasing power.

Simply stated , I am adding to my stored ammo supply in the interest of having a whole bunch of it to shoot after I retire. Adding supply much faster than using. As to how much is enough , that is a whole separate topic.

 

[Fine Figure of a Man]

Use : da/sa revolvers , 38 special. Variety of S&W pre locks. Also , proficiency practice with J frame carries. Mostly your basic informal target and plinking.

148 wadcutters are my favorite for 38 target and plinking. Are you looking for loaded ammo or bullets to reload?
Pretty easy to cast bullets for 38 if you care to.

 

[Waveski]

Loaded ammo.

 

[Panzerschwein]

A warming full wadcutter hard cast. Excellent on man or beast.

 

[CraigC]

Cast bullets not only are less expensive but are useful in doing things other than punching holes in paper. Your generic standard weight (158gr .357/240gr .44/250gr .45) semi wadcutter is not only less expensive but also works across a broad spectrum of velocity levels from 700fps plinking loads to 1400fps barn burners and is an excellent game bullet. FMJ is going to be severely limited in application and will usually cost more.

A warming full wadcutter hard cast. Excellent on man or beast.

As far as beasts go, full wadcutters are best reserved for small game and varmints. Even then only out to about 50yds. A semi-wadcutter or LBT style bullet is better by far for anything bigger.

 

[BSA1]

It depends on how long you plan on your "retirement" to be and what you view the political future of the country will be during that time.

When the Democrats and Liberals regain control of Congress and the White House there is going to be major paybuy to gun owners for supporting President Trump. Events during the recent Banic showed how long guns, ammunition and reloading supplies can dry up and how hard and expensive it is to buy more.

So the major advantage of lead bullets is you can easily make your own. A bullet mold, hot pot, luber with right sizing dies and a bucket of lead will keep you in bullets. (Reminds me that I need to buy some bullet molds before November). Being retire you will have time to make your own lead bullets.

I figure my wife and I will shoot around 3,000+ 9mm bullets this summer. In three years that will add up to 9,000 - 10,000 bullets. Once retired 100+ rounds a week for just me is probable so 5,000 rounds in a year is not a unreasonable figure.

And that is just for 9mm.

I have lots of guns in other calibers that need some quality time on the range so lead bullets will be playing a major role in my shooting.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Since this is the revolver section, I load mostly lead bullets for revolvers.

For my CAS Black Powder loads in 45 Colt, 45 Schofield, 44-40, 44 Russian, and 38-40 I load Big Lube bullets that have a huge lube groove filled with Black Powder compatible lube. I only shoot Round Nose Flat Point bullets is CAS.

For 38 Special I prefer 158 grain semi-wadcutters.

As far as I'm concerned, jacket bullets are for semi-autos.

 

[Waveski]

If I start shooting mostly non jacketed lead , what should I expect in terms of dealing with build up and fouling of rifling? The few times I have used LRN I have noticed a fair amount of depositing in the areas of escaping gasses.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Again

The purpose of jacketed bullets is they can be driven at higher velocities without needing a bullet lubricant. Lead bullets will reach a certain velocity, I don't remember exactly how fast, when the heat of friction of the bullet against the barrel will cause the lead to soften. This can cause leading as the softened lead fuses to the barrel. Jacketed bullets can be driven faster because the copper jacket melts at a higher temperature than lead. The copper itself is slippery enough to serve as its own lubricant, so jacketed bullets will not heat up as much, and can be driven at a higher velocity than lead bullets, without any leading.

Most of my revolvers are pretty old, I never load jacketed bullets for them because I have no need to drive bullets that fast.

The few times I have used LRN I have noticed a fair amount of depositing in the areas of escaping gasses.

Exactly what do you mean by 'the areas of escaping gasses'?

 

[mjsdwash]

with light loads, LRN puts almost no wear on a barrel. Imagine if a pistol barrel was a die used to swage lead how long it would last vs copper tubing. Lead also has worked good on game, and does not ricochet as easily. Much cheaper as well, and you can cast your own. Theres really no disadvantage if you are loading below high 9mm speed, and your using a bullet that fits the rifling. As far as leading, you can slug the barrel, and get bullets that fit right, or just load lighter. My Springfield GI leads terribly and immediately, even with the right bullets and a light load, but accuracy and velocity are not a problem so I ignore it. No other guns Ive shot pick up lead, in 38special 9Makarov, and 45acp in other pistols. I have heard 9mm, especially in European made guns can have issues, but I have never seen it. If you want to shoot 9mm in lead, I recomend CZ's. Seems like nothing fouls their barrels.

 

[Waveski]

Areas of escaping gasses - Near cylinder/ forcing cone gap , forward edges of cylinder.

 

[BobWright]

Mr. Wright ,

There is no "exactly' in regards to a what constitutes a retirement ammo supply. I'd have to say it varies widely depending on an individuals' shooting habits and purchasing power.

Simply stated , I am adding to my stored ammo supply in the interest of having a whole bunch of it to shoot after I retire. Adding supply much faster than using. As to how much is enough , that is a whole separate topic.

Well, I'm retired, some twelve years now, and still the outgo is just about even, or exceeds, supply. I don't shoot as much, granted, cutting back to around five to six thousand rounds fired per year. I just say my ammunition is fresh.

Bob Wright

 

[CraigC]

If I start shooting mostly non jacketed lead , what should I expect in terms of dealing with build up and fouling of rifling? The few times I have used LRN I have noticed a fair amount of depositing in the areas of escaping gasses.

I have 73 revolvers and shoot thousands of cast bullets every year. I can't remember the last time I had to scrub lead from a gun's bore. Leading gets to a certain point and stops. If it gets bad, then something is wrong. Either with the bullet's size, hardness or in some cases it's an issue with the gun.

 

[Waveski]

What is a good , not - to - exceed muzzle velocity for lead bullets? In terms of not heating the lead excessively , I mean?

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Oh geez, I was afraid you were going to ask that.

Bear in mind, the fastest load is not always the most accurate load.

Do you have any good reloading manuals?

If so, I suggest you look up maximum velocities for various lead bullets vs maximum velocities for varies jacketed bullets of the same weight. That should give you a good idea.

Don't hold me to this, but I think you may start to get leading up around 1000 fps with lead bullets.

If anybody wants to correct me I will gladly accept any corrections.

 

[CraigC]

Depends on the bullet. If it fits and is of appropriate hardness, you can easily get them over 2000fps without leading if you're using gas checks. For plain based bullets, I don't go beyond 1400fps. For hunting large and/or dangerous game, the material begins showing its limitations above 1200-1300fps.