M1A Range Report

[Cosmoline]

The snow has finally backed off and me and about 500 other people were at the range today to get sighted in. Still needs some tweaking but here are the observations:

--I tried out the M1A Scout with both the scout scope and E2 stock and the beater M14 stock and irons. Of the two combos I much prefer the irons and traditional low-cheek weld stock. I was able to get *better* groups off hand at 75 and kneeling at 100 with the irons than with the scout scope. It just handles and balances better. Plus the factory sights are superb and easy to adjust.

--The rifle worked without problems with high-end, full power heavy ball match loads. But the second I went with lighter ball or surplus it started short-stroking and would repeatedly fail to feed or feed only part way. I'm going to do a teardown of the gas system and if there's a bunch of crud to be drilled out I'll know what the problem is. Otherwise maybe I'll have to do some kind of adjustment to get more gas flowing.

--Accuracy was good but could be better. I was getting 1 1/2" groups with high end match at 75 yards and 2" at 100 yards. Surplus was about double that, and had variable points of impact. Accuracy with the tight-fitting E2 stock was a notch better than with the M14 surplus walnut, as I expected. I think I'm going to find a nice surplus birch stock and bed it to the action.

--The scout scope (a Leopold pistol scope) worked fine for about 30 rounds, then suddenly started stringing down, down down down. I was happily firing away thinking I had sighted it in only to look through the spotting scope and see a horrific ragged line going down off the target and putting two rounds in a new target frame, too. The barrel heat must have been slowly pushing the mount out of place. I'm pretty sure it was the fault of the rings, which didn't sit right on the mount and had to really be screwed down to sit still. But in any case I'm going to remove the scout mount and just roll with it old school. Don't need the scope.

--I haven't been able to find a steel buttplate yet but will swap it out when I do. The recoil is a non-issue with this rifle. I have a hard rubber buttplate on there now because that's all I could lay my hands on to replace the absurdly soft Springfield buttplate. Are people just extra recoil sensitive these days? Why would you need or want a big soft padded buttplate on a rifle like this?

 

[Cosmoline]

Well I'm a dummy. The rifle was short-stroking because the gas plug was half way unscrewed. And the assembly is full of oil, which I don't think it's supposed to be.

 

[wwace]

Where are you getting ammo at? I am having a hard time finding any good pricing on anything here for sure.

 

[Cosmoline]

There's almost nothing at Ammo Can. I had a little of my own backstock and I found some at gun runners. But it's all expensive and I'm probably going to have to start handloading en masse.

 

[ACP]

Cosmoline,

A nice write-up, as always.

Is that the rack grade M1A, with the chrome-lined barrel?

Or a "loaded" model?

I've had two in the past and always enjoyed them (Springfield Armory, one with lots of GI parts, the other with newer Springfield parts) and I may be in the market for another...

EDIT: Um.. you said "Scout" model. Nevermind!

 

[madcratebuilder]

Well I'm a dummy. The rifle was short-stroking because the gas plug was half way unscrewed. And the assembly is full of oil, which I don't think it's supposed to be.

That's your problem. A tip I got from a old time M14 smith is to add a single drop of #9 to gas system after each days shooting.

I made up a set of drill bits with handles for cleaning and the only part that needs them is the gas plug.

Use lots of grease, bolt, roller, op-rod guide and op-rod slot in receiver.

 

[Jason_G]

Well I'm a dummy. The rifle was short-stroking because the gas plug was half way unscrewed. And the assembly is full of oil, which I don't think it's supposed to be.

Mine came that way from SAI. Literally dripping oil out of the GC. I always disassemble and clean new guns prior to shooting, so I caught it and dried the gas system off.

As to the Hoppes in the GC, as madcratebuilder suggested, I keep mine absolutely bone dry, except just a tiny (I mean tiny) dab of grease on the threads of the gas cylinder plug. Just enough to keep the plug from being a PITA to unscrew, and keep me from torquing on the gas system too much when removing it. Put too much and it might unscrew itself. I've never had any issue with leaving the gas cylinder/piston bone dry. In fact, it seems to retard the caking of the carbon fouling that makes it in there. I don't think the single drop of Hoppe's would hurt anything, but I've never seen any need for it in my case.

Before I go hunting or shooting with my M1A, I always check sights (to make sure I'm on the correct elevation), and the gas system (plug is tight, piston moves freely, and spindle valve is oriented correctly).


Love the M1A. Wish I hadn't waited so long to get one.

I'm with you on the irons. They are so much more fun, too.



Jason

 

[Cosmoline]

I've found a variety of advice on how tight to make the plug. What I'm doing now is just using the standard multitool to get it hand-tight, but not using any larger wrench. The threads look pretty fine and would likely get mashed with too much pressure.

What about using gun-tite (the green stuff) to keep it in place? That's worked for me in the past to help keep screwed parts in place without being too difficult to pop back open.

As far as oil I've left it dry for now, since that seems to be standard. I wonder if the excess oil and backed-out plug decreased accuracy much. I was so fixated on getting it sighted in and checking different ammo that I wasn't paying any attention to it.

 

[Jason_G]

What about using gun-tite to keep it in place?

No, I wouldn't. It ought to be tight enough that you shouldn't need any sort of thread locker on it. I use a small stubby 3/8" box end wrench that I keep in my pocket sized cleaning kit that I carry to the range/woods. Tighten it firmly, just don't go nuts. I usually hold the gas system and barrel with my other hand to prevent torquing on the whole gas system too much. Sadlak makes a wrench that holds everything together for just that.


Jason

 

[Welding Rod]

Nice. I recently traded for a like-new Loaded and I am very happy with it.

I use one of these: http://shop.battlearmsdevelopment.com/BAD-T3-M14-M1A-M1-Garand-Gas-Cylinder-Lock-Wrench-BAD-T3.htm

Plus a small box end wrench for the M1A, a small gas plug wrench from the CMP for my Garand.

It fits my M1A and Gararnd perfectly... two for 1, and the company was quick about answering email questions before I ordered. I definitely would buy again.

 

[dprice3844444]

http://m14forum.com/ammunition/2330...lus-internet-updated-often-so-check-back.html

 

[Cosmoline]

Alas, Alaskans can't order ammo from the lower 48 without paying for barge space. Canada won't let it pass up the Al-Can and it can't go on the jets. We have ammo stores though.

 

[Jason_G]

Alas, Alaskans can't order ammo from the lower 48 without paying for barge space. Canada won't let it pass up the Al-Can and it can't go on the jets. We have ammo stores though.

Try to find some Federal Gold Medal Match 168 gr, or 175 gr if you really want to reach out there. Good "off the shelf" ammo for target shooting.

Jason

 

[jr_roosa]

Once you get the gas plug where you want it, mark it with some paint or nail polish so you can tell at a glance if it's come loose.

-J.

 

[Double Vision]

I use one of these: http://shop.battlearmsdevelopment.co...nch-BAD-T3.htm

Their shipping was remarkably fast!

For the life of me, even with the tool I still can't loosen the gas plug. Would some liquid wrench help? Any other ideas?

 

[velocette]

Take your GI brass & refill it with about 41 gr (+/-)of IMR 4895 then stick a Sierra or Nosler 168gr HPBT match bullet in it, then go out & see just how accurate your M1a is.

Roger

 

[Cosmoline]

Yup I've got IMR 4895 on my list for sure. That seems to be the go-to powder for these. The good news I've found is that the components for .308 are much cheaper than the components for my usual reloading efforts. I have a supply of 7.62 CCI primers I'll use.

Here's a question, though--do I need to have a special die set to make the reloads mate up properly with the action, or will a plain .308 Lee set work OK? I've seen the "small base dies" which apparently help with the M1A, but I'm wondering if they're necessary if I'm not shooting in matches.