I think you made the right choice. I have the Scout Squad and it is my favorite range gun. I would like a Socom 16, but that is back burner for sure.
There are lots of things that can be done to "accurize" the M1A, if it needs it. The M14 forum is a great place for knowledge, and has been successful at parting me with some money!
Things I would consider to be a very good idea if not mandatory:
1. Buy a USGI extractor or two just to have. My M1A's only problem was tossing the SAI(Springfield) extractor on round #33 on it's first trip. I bought a Beretta produced USGI kit(extractor, spring, detent) from TreelineM14 and it has nary a problem since. I never found the SAI extractor or detent. The spring remained in the bolt however.
2. Buy only Checkmate(CMI) mags. Brownell's and 44mag.com carry them, or your preferred retailer if they have CMI. I have a few ProMags and they work ok, but aren't up to the standard of CMI, who is the supplier of the U.S. armed forces.
3. Dewey M1A muzzle guide, M1 buddy(Sinclair), Lubriplate 130-A or your choice of grease with a small paint brush to help apply it cleanly. One piece coated rod.
4. Reloading
Not really mandatory, but if I didn't I would not be able to blow through as much ammo as I do!
Other things I have done to mine:
NM Op-rod spring guide
USGI trigger parts, SAI trigger was great actually, I gained very little if anything in the swap. Maybe a few snob points?
USGI Fiberglass stock, OD Green Duracoat, I had a HG made for the Scout mount should I feel a need for it later.
National Match rear sight(rifle comes from SAI with a NM front sight)
Random other:
My gas cylinder times up really nice so I had no need to shim it.
A gas cylinder wrench is nice to have when torquing/loosening the gas plug(I currently use a folded towel and channel-locks).
If you ever feel the need to remove the muzzle device, there is a set screw to remove and then the castle nut may be loosened. Get the special pliers to avoid scarring it up. Remember that your front sight is attached to it, so care should be taken when torquing anything near the muzzle.
Size P and O drill bits can be used to clean out the plug and piston when they get cruddy(takes a good amount of shooting but you'll be surprised what comes out
).
I tried a "Tactical" magazine latch and personally didn't like it, went back with the factory one.
I may try a SEI "Good Iron" brake for it when I can justify the money or need. The factory brake/hider works pretty well. Even prone it's not too bad unless I'm neat the bench or wall.
A while back MI was coming out with a mount to cowitness(1/3 I think) a microdot like RMR or Fastfire if that is your thing.
I think you'll enjoy your rifle, hopefully as much as I do. And don't worry about any naysayers. It is a great platform and capable of great accuracy. It is just not always guaranteed out of the box and there are better platforms for tack driving. But for a steel .308 battle rifle? Awesome. I get an honest 2 MOA(about the same as it was straight from SAI) with irons on sandbags with either 147gr M80 pulls or Hornady 150 FMJ's over 42gr H4895 in LC brass. It's worse if I am having a bad day or trouble seeing the sights well. When prone unsupported(w/o sling or rest) at 200 I get 8" groups until I get tired! But that is all me!
Hopefully you find some of this rambling useful!
