M66 or M686? Which would you choose?

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VaughnT

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I have carried a 686 4" for the last four years, roughly, and find it to be an absolutely reliable shooter. However, I haven't been able to find one for sale at a decent price.

One local shop does have a dozen or so m66's in stock from a PD trade-in and they are all tagged at $295. I fully expect I could talk them down to $200 on one of the more heavily scratched specimens and this really strikes a chord as I could then send it off to someone good with wheelies and get it customized :cool:

How do the two compare? Isn't the 66 a smaller frame? Could I have a full underlug welded on? What sight options are available (I really like a narrow blade and wide notch as my eyes are getting old)? Is tritium possible in the blade?

I realize I could buy a NIB 686 for the cost of the 66 and upgrades, but they I wouldn't have a custom wheelgun. If it is possible to add an underlug to the 66 (it looks great/right and helps recoil), I'd basically have a 686 but for a pretty good price. Right?

What mods would you make to turn a 66 into a top-notch open-carry defensive revolver?

Any help/thoughts appreciated. The 66 could be in my hands by the end of tomorrow.....
 
The model 66 is a great gun right from the factory. A used one probably has been fired enough to smooth out the trigger also. I wouldn't do anything to the gun.

It almost sounds like you want to make mods just to do it, so you can say you have a custom gun. Unless the modifications are well thought out for a specific improvement you are just as likely to end up with an expensive monstrosity.

If you want a 686 get one they are a great gun also.
 
The Model 66 is built on Smith's K-Frame, which is not as beefy as the L-Frame upon which the 686 is built. In fact, the L-Frame was designed to address concerns that the K-Frame .357s failed to hold up to extensive use of full-power .357s.

The K- and L-Frames all use K-Frame grips.

As for the mods you suggest, anything is possible with enough money.

My suggestion for making a Model 66 a good carry gun is to put on grips that feel good to you and leave the rest of the gun alone. Maybe make it a round-butt, possibly shorten the barrel to 3".
 
surf, you're right in that I love to tweak a gun to make it something that is all mine. Anyone can buy a 66, but not every 66 will look like mine.

The deal on these trade-ins is that they are cheap, but that comes at the price of cosmetic damage. I wouldn't feel right carrying a scratched up weapon, and I mean really scratched up, and would want to get the majority of the damage polished out.

Also, before carrying it, I would want a certified, experienced smith to give it the once-over to make sure everything is in spec and working as it is supposed. That's a legal must.

So, while these two items are being handled, and I don't think either is out of line, why not do something a little more?

I carry a 686 and saw a few things that I would like to change. The lack of low-light shootability due to dark sights is a problem quickly realized when we go through our FATS simulation. And almost every revolver in our inventory shows extreme wear/damage to the rear sight leaf. As far as reliability, you just can't beat the 686, but.....

Does this make sense? I could carry/shoot the 66 for several months while planning out the mods, but I have to start somewhere. If I could find a used 686 for $300, I'd probably jump on it. All that I've seen in the area are either $350 and up, or are the seven-shot 686+ model.
 
Greeting's All-

Here locally, used Smith & Wesson model 66's
and 686's have dried up considerably. I have
not seen a used one of either model number
in quite sometime! Also, I have read many
post as to where NIB 686's were selling for
well over five C-notes.

I bought a NIB 6" Smith & Wesson 686-5 in
April of 2001, and gave $439.95 + 8% sales
tax. Its a fabulous firearm, and I think it has
its place in the up and coming S&W history!

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member
 
I have been a fan of the 686 & his blue brother 586 for a long time. Towards the end of last year, I met up w/ a good deal on a mod 19 (blued version of the 66) and couldn't resist. It's absolutely SWEET! You really can't go wrong w/ either the 686 or the 66. I was once told that the 66 might be a tad quicker on target w/o the extra weight of the full length lug on the 686...I never really noticed the difference. Maybe I need to shoot it more!
 
What modifications would I do to a mod 66

Are any of them 3" round butts, if so start there if not get a 4" and have the barrel cut down to a 3" and have a night sight put on. Then I would have the thing bead blasted with extra fine beads to make a nice smooth dull finish. I would get some Spegel boot grips or some Kim Ahrends fingergroove grips and then I would shoot the thing until it was well used to being handled.

One other thing I might have done is to have the cylinder relieved for moonclips.
 
I own two 66's and two 686's. All great guns.

The 66 is the smaller "K" frame and it has the "snipped off" forcing cone if you look at the top where it meets the top strap. IMO, that frame design is not up to a steady diet of full magnum loads and that forcing cone makes me nervous.

The 686 is fully up to full power leads and is only slightly larger than the 66. The big "N" frame guns like the model 28 are actually overdesigned for .357 and are virtually indestructable.
 
How about the Performance Center M66F Comp- note the underlug; price should be less than expected.

Specifications
Product Code: 170024
Caliber: .357 Magnum®/.38 S&W Special®
Capacity: 6 Rounds
Height: 6"
Front Sight: Drift Adjustable Dovetail Ramp
Rear Sight: Micrometer Adjustable
Grips: Walnut Combat
Material: Stainless Steel
Finish: Glassbead
Overall Length: 8"
Barrel: 3" Full lug ported
Weight Empty: 35 oz.
Other Features: Additional Hogue Bantam Monogrip; Chamfered charge holes
UPC Code: 022188700244
Suggested Retail: $798.00


Performance Center Home | Custom Firearms | Gunsmithing Services
 
Much depends on YOUR intended use, VaughnT

You mention carrying your 686. but cannot find one for a decent price. I therefore presume the old one was an issue piece. Do you intend to carry the anticipated purchase as an everyday concealment piece? If so, then I believe the M66 would be a better choice - - It is noticibly lighter, especially if you don't add the underlug. I really don't believe the full underlug performs any useful function except for the rare occasion when you would want to shoot magnum loads in a contest. If for some reason I couldn't carry an auto pistol, I would really like the idea of a slick K frame in either three or four inch trim, with round butt, for holster carry. I would have the option of full magnums for everyday carry and occasional sight verification, and use full power .38 Specials or lighter .357 handloads for close range practice.

If, on the other hand, you want this revolver for hunting or other field use, you might be far more satisfied with the L-Frame, and possibly in a longer barrel. the heavier piece would easily handle the HEAVY, 180 gr factory or 200 gr. handloads for bear defense or possibly deer hunting. I think of the .357 from a short barrel as being a marginal deer cartridge. It is a different matter from a six-inch or longer tube.

I hope you find the revolver you really want, for whatever purpose.

Best,
Johnny
 
Having owned, carried, and fired a variety of 686s and 66s, I'd be more inclined to cut OFF the underlug of the 686 than to try to weld one ON to a 66.

For a carry gun, it's hard to beat a 66, right out of the box.

Now, if the gun is primarily a range gun that one is going to fire thousands of hot rounds through each year, the 686 would be the ticket. For daily carry and moderate shooting, I'd definitely stay with the good old 66.

Just my opinion.
 
FWIW, I really like a satin, or beadblasted finish on stainless revolvers; it stops a lot of the reflection problem. Otherwise, once a used Smith has been has been inspected and cleaned up if necessary, most everything else is gravy.

You just can't go wrong with a good Smith .357, new or used. If you find one of the 3.5" N frames in good shape, get it or let us know where it's at.

That F Comp was recently "approved" here and is nice. I had thought it came with a front night sight, but It has a blaze orange type which probably works better than it looks (to my eyes anyway). Other than this sight issue, I really like it a lot and it could eventually grow on me.

Best....
 
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I have heard for years that the K frames could not stand up to 357 magnums well and that is why the L frame was made. Now though you can get J frames chambered for 357 magnum which makes me wonder about the supposed difference between K and L frames.
 
"Now though you can get J frames chambered for 357 magnum which makes me wonder about the supposed difference between K and L frames."

Next time you are at a gun shop and you have the chance to look at a 66/19 and a 686/586 - swing open the cylinders and compare them side by side. Also look at the forcing cones of both . The 686 is far more solidly constructed in these areas - there is an actual difference that can be seen visually. To accompany the larger cylinder the L frame is larger itself. As far as J frame 357's - I doubt any of these were intended to be shot with the steady diet of full house 357's that you could feed the L frames.

With that said - I have owned a 19 and a 66 and 4 686's - really think any will serve you well.
 
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