MachIVShooter . . .

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Thanks greyling.

Consensus? Ha. A good piece of that thread, like so many was a couple of guys crying waa, I'm right and you're wrong! What a waste.

In your second link you say "no" to dipping Ti. Can you say how you reached that conclusion?


Cat
 
I just decided to be safe rather than sorry at the time. I still haven't dipped titanium, as it supposedly strips the cerakote.

I will add that purple power will absolutely strip the finish anodizing finish off aluminum (whoops!)
So I'm cautious about solvents now.
 
but I'd love it if you did some experimenting for me. dip the ti. dip the cerakote. dip nitrided black parts. I'd love to know what's safe and what isn't.
 
Your wish is my command, kind of. It's time to clean my silencers so I'll be using the dip on one Ti baffle. See how it goes. If it eats it I'll send it to MachIV and have him make another. I've some stainless steel parts, they all get the dip. Boy does it work.

I'll let you know.


Cat
 
Just be careful with the dip solution post cleaning. You end up with a lead solution that is easily taken up by the human body. But it can be converted into a relatively insoluble compound with table salt, baking soda or sulfuric acid.
 
An excess of table salt, to be clear. As in pour table salt into it until there is no liquid left, then seal and dispose of it like the lead compound it is.
 
My suppressor is aluminum, including the baffles and spacers, so I don't want to use anything 'harsh' when cleaning the crapola off the internal parts:

ARas6Ah.jpg

I've used the 50/50 peroxide/vinegar solution many times to remove carbon and fine lead particle build-up on these parts. The first soaking lasts for 15-20 minutes, if the parts are clean at this point a wash off with hot water and then they get stuffed back into the suppressor body. If carbon and stuff remain, another soaking for 15-20 minutes, or until they do come out clean. No damage has been done to these aluminum parts with the process that I currently use.
Just to see what might happen to some 6061T aluminum ½-inch diameter rod, I soaked a 3-inch long rod in the solution and left it in for 46 hours before the solution started to attack the aluminum rod, so 15-20 minutes is what I consider a safe bet:

NbTKMOM.jpg
 
How interesting Mr. Gunsmith. I've been lead to believe that the Dip will eat alum. Just shows to go you, can't believe everything you read.

Some Qs, are the parts anodized? Over what duration have you been doing this? Years, months?

I've quite a few alum suppressor parts and those results look great to me. I'd love to use it.


Cat
 
How interesting Mr. Gunsmith. I've been lead to believe that the Dip will eat alum. Just shows to go you, can't believe everything you read.

Some Qs, are the parts anodized? Over what duration have you been doing this? Years, months?

I've quite a few alum suppressor parts and those results look great to me. I'd love to use it.


Cat

My suppressor is around 4 years old and I've soaked the internal parts to clean them at least five times now. No, the internal baffles and spacers are not anodized, but I'm not sure of what grade aluminum they were made from.
Duration of soaking time I use is 15 to 20 minutes, two maybe three times, until clean. If you are a bit dubious about using this solution, just try a couple of the carboned up parts as was suggested to see how they do. Beats the snot out of scrubbing the parts.
 
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