Making a 366 Rigby

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I've also mounted a Timney Featherweight but I have a problem with it. Everything works out ok with the safety and the sear working with the military cocking piece but when fired the firing pin only advance something like 1/16 and I have to pull the rear of the trigger assembly downwards to release it fully.

Is this adjustable somehow or can I shim it with suitable stock?
 
I've also mounted a Timney Featherweight but I have a problem with it. Everything works out ok with the safety and the sear working with the military cocking piece but when fired the firing pin only advance something like 1/16 and I have to pull the rear of the trigger assembly downwards to release it fully.

Is this adjustable somehow or can I shim it with suitable stock?
I havent done a mauser trigger install, but i copied this off timneys site.

"After installing my Mauser trigger and pull the trigger it is not firing or releasing the firing pin.
This trigger has a floating sear. You will need to check the sear slot to ensure there is enough room. With the bolt using a rod or a dowel to push the sear all the way forward and see if there is enough clearance in the sear slot for it to go far enough to drop and fire. If not material will need to be removed to elongate the sear slot."
 
I got a little sight, and I also got someone who has the machines to mill and drill and weld and spark and pound it into shape with a 12 pound hammer for all I know.
So the bolt mounted peep sight is going to happen!

View attachment 898751

Do you have a spare cocking piece to mount the sight on? You could also have some metal welded to one side of the sear surface so you can fit this sucker into the receiver slot like a custom 1911 slide. A spare fitted firing pin or two would be handy as well -- usually this arrangement also requires shortening the tail a tad.
 
I havent done a mauser trigger install, but i copied this off timneys site.

"After installing my Mauser trigger and pull the trigger it is not firing or releasing the firing pin.
This trigger has a floating sear. You will need to check the sear slot to ensure there is enough room. With the bolt using a rod or a dowel to push the sear all the way forward and see if there is enough clearance in the sear slot for it to go far enough to drop and fire. If not material will need to be removed to elongate the sear slot."

On my Swede, I had to do rather more metal removal from the seat slot than I had expected or thought reasonable when installing the Timney. Also remember that when you put it in the stock, the bolt handle recess has to be sufficient to allow the bolt to absolutely completely close.
 
Do you have a spare cocking piece to mount the sight on? You could also have some metal welded to one side of the sear surface so you can fit this sucker into the receiver slot like a custom 1911 slide.

I have a complete extra firing pin assembly including shroud to work on, I don't have a 1911 so I'm having difficulties envisioning your idea. Do you have a picture?

On my Swede, I had to do rather more metal removal from the seat slot than I had expected or thought reasonable when installing the Timney. Also remember that when you put it in the stock, the bolt handle recess has to be sufficient to allow the bolt to absolutely completely close.
If I shim the rear of the trigger with a hacksaw blade it works perfectly, an even thinner shim would do, so I think that it's not too big a job
 
Loonwolf, you were perfectly right and I'm much obliged. It took me a good while to find the info on Timney's webpage even knowing you'd found it.

All that was needed was to square up the oval sear hole slightly.

Half an hour taking the rifle apart, trying to push on trigger and sear and holding the rifle steady without a third hand to see what was going on, thirty minutes more trying to find the good needle files and 30 seconds of filing.

20200314_131728.jpg
 
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That little sight is going to work great! Hope you can get the trigger figured out. A timney would be a nice upgrade...

Yeah, it feels great. The old trigger wasn't bad, it has been modified to single stage and has a really crisp break, it's just far heavier than I like.
 
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I have a complete extra firing pin assembly including shroud to work on, I don't have a 1911 so I'm having difficulties envisioning your idea. Do you have a picture?

My bad -- used the 1911 as an analogy because welding extra metal to the receiver rails used to be the common way to remove slide play from a stock 1911. Here is a random example:

frame-rail.jpg

The idea is to add a layer of welded metal, then file/stone it flat until the fit between the two components is as tight as possible without binding. I was thinking this technique would also work to remove any rotational slop between your Mauser's cocking piece and receiver, assuming there is much.
 
Corona, not on my watch.jpg

How are you all doing?
I've been living in a ghost town these last few days, several restaurants have closed for the duration and toilet paper can't be had for money.
I hear of several cases among my friends and I'm worried about my parents, neither of them are in a good shape to fight this :(

Stay safe and keep flattening that curve!
 
Corona or no Corona, life must go on and especially gun projects.

Today I stared up the contraption that I've given the old viking name "Naglbitr".

As you can see I already made the first goof, i didn't notice that the pad was mounted a bit skewed so when I drilled out for the plugs I used a bolt to center the hole under the drill instead of centering the holes on the pad.
20200322_112051.jpg
Well, the first one is only a test. Right?
20200322_114919.jpg
Covered in leather.
I read that you should soak leather in alcohol for stretching and it actually becomes much more pliable than using water. The leather I found is painted rather than dyed unfortunately so I had to stop and wait for it to dry again as the paint started to come off.

Next time around it wasn't as stretchy but I think it'll work.
20200322_173958.jpg

And in the background you'll see another accessory I had imported from Tatooine at enormous expense, a genuine Tusken raider bandolier.
 
Corona or no Corona, life must go on and especially gun projects.

Today I stared up the contraption that I've given the old viking name "Naglbitr".

As you can see I already made the first goof, i didn't notice that the pad was mounted a bit skewed so when I drilled out for the plugs I used a bolt to center the hole under the drill instead of centering the holes on the pad.
View attachment 901171
Well, the first one is only a test. Right?
View attachment 901172
Covered in leather.
I read that you should soak leather in alcohol for stretching and it actually becomes much more pliable than using water. The leather I found is painted rather than dyed unfortunately so I had to stop and wait for it to dry again as the paint started to come off.

Next time around it wasn't as stretchy but I think it'll work.
View attachment 901173

And in the background you'll see another accessory I had imported from Tatooine at enormous expense, a genuine Tusken raider bandolier.
Very nice!
 
I've put in all the ammo I currently have for the rifle, 10 clips of 5. The pockets could easily take 6 clips for a total of 150 and possibly 7 for 175.

That's a lot of rock and roll.
20200323_182048.jpg
With my G3 I'm issued 4 mags of 20 and that's both heavy and bulky.
The grunts scrounge up to 10 mags and that's like a full metal cuirass covering their torso
And this belt sort of equals all that.

And I finally realized what those weird little hooks on the end of the shoulder straps of the old army backpack is meant for.
I was issued one of these for a week when my modern backpack was damaged and supply was out of them

I used the hooks for all sorts of things but mainly found them a nuisance.
Now they makes perfect sense
20200323_182224.jpg
 
Shipping is expensive but it's really the low odds of delivery that's the problem, ships have a tendency of disappearing on route.

It's like they're swallowed by a rock dwelling space worm or something.

And there's no use complaining. The empire comp-troll will only reimburse the seller on submission of the original receipt and the seller has a tendency to turn up as leftovers of a sarlacc's dinner.

I suggest that you try to get an eye of harmony on eVoid instead, they work just as well and you don't have to build your landspeeder from your kitchen sink.
 
I've put in all the ammo I currently have for the rifle, 10 clips of 5. The pockets could easily take 6 clips for a total of 150 and possibly 7 for 175.

For my part, I prefer the official Video Ranger belt rig, seen here worn by Captain Video hisself:

captain_video_a_p.jpg

The Rangers use basic M1923/43 web cartridge belts with an attached dump pouch -- surprisingly practical rigs for guys who don't bother taking off their football helmets indoors.
 
The belt is less cumbersome than mine and takes a bit more ammo (for a Springfield) but only half for a Garand.
I think is a better choice than having all that bulk up front, especially if you're down on your stomach crawling into position.

I have added a dump pocket to my vest and feel that it's rather awkward, I prefer to shove the mags inside my vest or jacket.
Expendable clips are a much better solution

But why is he menacing a female tin-man with a hair drier? I definitely have to Google video rangers!
 
Besides, I've just ordered 30 more clips for like $21.

German clips are expensive, $25 to $40 for 5 and often "battle relics", I found clips from the Danish army in near pristine condition for $7 per 10

Now I just have to get some powder and load all of my 370 empty brass
 
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