mixed headstamp on 9mm and .380 auto

[willymc]

I’ve loaded thousands of .38 and .357 rounds for my revolvers over the years. I’ve used numerous combinations of bullets and powders. I’ve loaded light, medium and a** kicker loads. My revolvers ate them up like candy. Most were even good enough for my gun club competitions. Mixed headstamps were never a concern. Now I’m starting to load 9mm and .380 auto. I will be trying different powders, powder weights, and bullets to find what shoots best in each gun. My question is, will using mixed headstamp brass cause a problem for me? I’m more concerned with functioning than pinpoint accuracy.

 

[rcmodel]

Maybe, maybe not.

9mm especially has been made in such numbers all over the world to different specs that you can find some pretty different rim sizes, primer pockets, and such.

I have some old WWII military brass that won't even fit in all 9mm shell holders for instance.

In .380 ACP, we are hearing about some brands having an internal ledge to prevent bullet set-back. That causes seating problems with heavier then normal bullets.

I would suggest sorting, at least until you have evidence the cases are close enough to being the same that neck thickness & expander plug size, or case capacity isn't different.

rc

 

[RandyP]

I load both calibers and have not noticed any issues. I do not sort by headstamp. I also only load for economic target "plinking" ammo.

If you were working up specific purpose rounds and recording chronograph data and such, then I'd reckon limiting the variables is a better approach. In that case sorting by headstamp, primer used etc. might be more important?

Just for paper zombies? Nah.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

somewhat as Randy. I save once fired brass for 'performance' loads - Fed, Rem, Speer (my favorites) and Winny. PMC and PMP are good also as is IMI.
any foreign 'cheap' stuff I scrounge up I load cast slug 'practice' rounds with in both 9mm and .380. so far no problems. man was I surprised at the accuracy of cast slug loads in my BDA over RDot.
CBC, Greek factory (Olympic IIRC) and Aguila are among other brands that I consider 'cheap' brass.

 

[mokin]

I would recommend sorting. I didn't when I started loading 9mm and noticed occasional flyers that could only be explained by mixed brass and different case capacities between brands. I know one guy who refuses to relaod 9mm and .40 S&W simply because he says the brass needs to be sorted before reloading (more brass for me!). If you are mainly concerned about functionability all the mixed brass batches shot fine.

 

[jmorris]

I’m more concerned with functioning than pinpoint accuracy.

I don't sort by headstamp. The use of a case gauge will do more for perfect functioning than sorting.

 

[rfwobbly]

My question is, will using mixed headstamp brass cause a problem for me? I’m more concerned with functioning than pinpoint accuracy.

Willy -
By your description it sounds as if you simply want some really good quality "plinking" ammo. For that use, mixed brass will be fine. There are several caveats to that general statement that I follow though...

• For building a load, you might want to use all the same brass just to remove that variable from the picture. If your "pick-up brass" is like mine, then 60% of it is one brand. It shouldn't be any problem to find 25-40 matching cases in among the hundreds there.

• You might want to scrap one or more of the brands that you find giving consistent reloading headaches, just on general principle.

• You don't intend to get close to max load with a home-made self defense load.

• If you have made a point of staying clear of "performance enhancing drugs" [like Hangover Helper ] and expect a phone call any minute from the US Olympic Team, then you might want to practice with a single type of brass. (I understand they are opening up a new shooting category at the next Summer Olympics called "beer can on a fence post" which the OC found universally practiced in all civilized nations.)


Otherwise.... let 'er rip.

 

[willymc]

Thanks for the comments! My Beretta and Colt Mustang .380’s function well with all brands of factory ammo as does my Sig 9mm. My first reloads were made using new Remington Brass for the .380 and new Winchester brass for the 9mm. All functioned with no problem and the accuracy was just fine. Now, my inventory of loaded ammo is low and it’s time to reload. Most, if not all, of my used 9mm brass is Rem,, Win., PMC, Speer, and Fiocchi. The used brass for the .380 is Win. S&W, Rem., and Federal. I’ll use the case gauge and keep my eyes open for occasional flyers and see what happens. Thanks again. I’m really glad I joined this group.

 

[rfwobbly]

I’m really glad I joined this group.

We're really glad you're here!

 

[Rodentman]

I just finished reloading 50 used mixed cases in 9mm. I was surprised at how much variance there was in "feeling" how they went thru the dies. Some did not drop cleanly into my EFK G17 bbl. I am done with this batch. For ME, I think I prefer to use new brass, save it and reload it as long as safe. I don't think I'll be buying used brass again. Even though they are supposedly once fired only, there are too many variables. Maybe if I were an expert in dealing with them.....

OF course YMMV.........

 

[Walkalong]

I shoot a horrid mix of range brass in 9MM. No functioning problems in any of my guns, and very good accuracy. I do use common sense when checking cases for damage or excessive pressure signs, and scrap those.