model 65

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arsuf

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I am considering purchasing a used S&W model 65, I am a bit hesitant though due hearing they have problems loosening up with magnum loads, anyone have some experience in this matter? The firing pin is attached to the hammer, I plan on giving it a much closer inspection before I purchase it of course. There was also a pretty nice model 10 at the shop. I am mostly looking at using it for plinking and home defense and as an occasional ccw. Oh it has a 4" bbl.
Thanks for any help.
 
I've owned a number of S&W K-frame guns and didn't consider them a problem. I generaly shot a mixture of magnum and .38 Spl loadings and put several thousand rounds though them without a problem. (about 5K per year) Every gun will wear and loosen eventualy.

If your wanting to shoot maximum loadings of the .357 mag. cartridge then perhaps an L or N frame is a better choice. There are those that just can't resist trying to turn a .357 Mag. into a .44 Mag. by shooting hot loads and heavy slugs. I think that is where some of the smoke came from on the K-frame models. (IMO)

PS: WELCOME TO THR !
 
...problems loosening up with magnum loads...

That is mostly an internet legend. Lots of hot 125gr .357s can damage the gun, but there are guys who have fired tens of thousands of 158gr magnums through their K frames with no problems. But if you are planning on shooting that much an N-frame would be better. :)
 
Thanks for the quick replies. As I don't hand load I will only be shooting factory loads so nothing too hot, so I will be giving it a through look over next week.
 
The problem with K Magnums is the forcing cone. Light bullets, like the common 125 gr, at magnum velocities are known to crack K Frame forcing cones. I shoot nothing but 140 gr & heavier when I shoot magnums in my 65 and I've had no problems.
 
has anyone seen the deals on CDNN investments with regards to their used 65 pistols? Is that a pretty good deal? What are the major differences between the 65 and the 686?
 
I've had a K frame forcing cone crack on me. That's the weak point on the K frames and it ain't no "internet legend". I wouldn't worry about it loosening, not with MY use. Yeah, if you fire 100K rounds a year, you might wear it out, but hell, I could say that about even the uber strong Rugers. Any gun has a life expectancy before it's gonna need attention. I've never worn a revolver out, I can tell ya that, not even a J frame. I did have that forcing cone crack, though, and had to have the gun rebarreled. They claim it can only happen with hot 125 grain .357s, but it happened on me while shooting WADCUTTERS in a M10 .38 special! I had a M19 for a while. Sold it because I wanted another gun and it wasn't all THAT uber accurate, plenty acceptable, but not a real gem. I never had a problem with it, but only had about 2K rounds through it and that was mostly .38.

I like K frame guns, though, for carry afield, lighter and easier to tote than GP100s and L frames and just as capable of fine accuracy. They won't hold up to the amount of use that the heavier, stronger guns will, but how many of use shoot ONE gun that much? If you do, don't buy a K frame, get an L or N frame .357 and don't worry. the forcing cone may crack some day, though. That incident sorta put me off, but hell, the gun was built in the early 60s. It's not been fired all that much. Wharton county sheriff owned it and my grandpa traded him out of it. I know the history of the gun, fired little, carried a lot and not even carried much when my grandpa got it. He kept it for home defense.
 
I have a 65 that was a Cop gun. I bought it and shot it for years and it is still going strong.
 
.357 magnum K frames seem to have one compromise in design. They were beefed up in the yoke area and designed to shoot 158 grain lead .357 magnum ammunition. To clear the cylinder and ejector rod, the forcing cone on .357 magnum K frames has a flat area at 6:00. This area is prone to cracking when 125 grain .357 magnum ammunition is used. For specifics, click here or here for some of the best research. Of course, others disagree.

As far as the gun "loosening" up, Model 65's seem to hold together pretty well. There is always the option of shooting .38 special for "plinking" and loading with .357 magnum for training and defense.

phantomak47, the 686 has a full lug barrel, the Model 65 does not. The 686 has adjustable sights, the Model 65 does not. The 686 is a L frame. The Model 65 is a K frame. Other'n that, they're pretty much the same.......;)

Just curious MCgunner, what was the dash number of your Model 10 that cracked at the forcing cone? I'm not disputing what you say, it's just that some folks say the deletion of the barrel pin in favor of a crush fit contributed to the forcing cone issue, but I often think that is simply an attempt to condemn new manufacturing practices.
 
I have a pile of 4" K-frames in the safe, each has had a few thousand rounds through it (mostly .38s of course) and I've had no problems yet.

I really wouldn't worry about it, by the time you wear one out its long past time for a new gun anyway...
 
The M65 is a beautiful gun and it's very dependable. Yes, shooting 125-gr. hot loads can cause the gun to fail. An NRA techie once told me that the gun will take about 2,000 hot magnum loads before needing work. The strain is mostly put on the forcing cone, though really hot loads can actually warp the frame. He said he wore out a couple of K-frame Smiths shooting hot magnum loads. Hot 110-gr. loads are even worse. Go with the heavier bullet weights and you won't have a problem. For defense, though, the 125-gr. JHP is devastating. Since your gun doesn't have adjustable sights, it's probably better to sight it in with the heavier bullets. Defense loads tend to be fired close in and precise lineup isn't an issue.

The best thing is not to worry about it. Just as many busted forcing cones can be attributed to poor heat treat. Also, stainless resists gas cutting much better than carbon steel. I'd buy the 65 in a heartbeat over the M10.
 
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