Modifying a 1911

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mwpslp

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I have a Kimber Pro CDP and a Springfield Champion. I am considering sending them to Springfield Armory for their "reliability" package. Basically they debur, throat, polish, tune extractor and ejector, and a trigger job set at 4 to 4.5 lbs. for $175 per gun. These are both concealed carry guns for me and I just wanted to add that I am doing this only for reliability not because I am having any problems with either one of them. My question is does anyone have any input as to the quality of work that Springfield is capable of? Any good or bad reviews from folks who have used them in the past?
 
Do you meant to tell me that you are going to pay Springfiend $175 to finish manufacturing their pistol? I know that you don't think thats a funny question but I do. Crying shame that finishing a pistol is now an "option".

Sam
 
I presume they will work on their own products, but I don't know about the Kimber.

It does little good to tune the extractor if its a MIM part.

The barrel is throated when it comes out of the box.

Why should they have to deburr the gun, and if they do does that include refinishing?

What is the trigger pull at now? You may be able to reduce the pull by simply going to a regular mainspring system and eliminate the Brady lock in the mainspring housing. For more information do a search on the key words; "Springfield" and "lock." Also "Tuner" and "Springer."

If you really want the work done $175.00 is probably a fair price, but I think some of it at least is a way to move more of your money into their pocket.
 
Springfield said they will work on Kimber or any quality 1911. I have noticed with the Springfield quite a few metal shavings when I clean the gun after firing on the underside of the slide. I did not have this problem with the Kimber though. I agree it seems strange to have to do these things on a new gun. I guess "have to" is not exactly the right phrase. More of just wanting to make sure they are as "reliable" as I can make them. As far as the deburring they state that they debur the internals so no refinishing is required. They post this package on their website under 1911 and custom shop. Just trying to see if it is worth it and if Springfield does good work. The money is not really the issue for me anyway.
 
Sounds like a waste of money for a Kimber CDP. CDP's already have a throated barrel. The ramp is aluminum and you don't want a mirror finish on it.......it will take the anodizing off. CDP's come from the factory with a 4 - 4.5 # trigger. If yours is much heavier, Kimber will fix it for free (except shipping.) The guns are fully "melted" down......... what is there to deburr?

Have you had reliability problems with the CDP?
 
No reliability problems with either. Your point is well taken. I guess it was the metal shavings I got from the Springfield that have caused me to consider this.
 
If you use the search feature on this forum you will find a ton of excellent information on both Springfield Armory and Kimber pistols. I understand your desire to enhance the reliability of your pistols, but before you spend any money a search and some reading will leave you much better informed about how to go about it.

In general, if you want work done by a gun manufacturer it is best to send the gun to whoever made it. Kimber knows much more about Kimbers then S.A. does. They also have the correct parts in case something does need to be replaced.

If you are finding metal shavings in a pistol the first question should be, "why?" And the next one should be, "where are they coming from?" :scrutiny:
 
I thought about going to each individual manufacturer as well but when I called Kimber they said they don't do any sort of modifications i.e. custom shop work like that for their guns. The shavings are minimal it's just that I have never got them from any of my other guns. In all fairness it is fairly new and only has a couple hundred rounds through it right now. It may go away after another time or two at the range. Just didn't want to take any chances.
 
I agree that I wouldn't take any chances either. Two obvious possibilities are that they are left over from the manufacturing process, in which case the pistol should be completely disassembled (very easy too do) and cleaned out, or that somewhere something is rubbing metal off of something else. In that case you should disassemble the pistol and determine what is going on. Continuing to shoot it could make something bad, worse.

I suggest that you invest about $30.00 in a book: "The Colt .45 Automatic - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It is available from:

www.brownells.com
www.gunbooks.com
www.amazon.com

Read it, and you will be much wiser concerning how your two pistols work, and how to completely disassemble, assemble and care for them. The knowledge will make both you and the guns more reliable, and you will be able to make informed decisions on what work, if any, should be done.
 
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