Mounting Pistol scope

Status
Not open for further replies.

ForneyRider

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
848
Location
Forney, TX
I had my pistol scope mounted by a professional gunsmith and after 2 separate days at the range. The gun still shoots to the right at 25 yards with the turret turned all the way. 2-3inches at 25 yards. elevation is very good, with very little adjustment.

How do I shim the rings to move the scope into adjustment?

This is the Burris 4x pistol scope with 1/2 MOA adjustments.
 
I'd suggest Burris Signature Zee rings. They have polymer inserts that allow you to adjust the scope's alignment to the bore without shimming. Have you mechanically zero'd the scope?

This was posted on another site:
The secret to mounting the scope is to make sure the W & E are set dead balls on at "neutral" (or mechanical 'zero'). Turn either one of the knobs (say, Windage) all the way to one side. Now turn the knob all the way back, counting the MOA adjustment (a.k.a., "clicks"). Then divide that number of clicks by 2 (let's say your result is 120 clicks-- divide that by 2). Turn the W knob back 60 clicks. Theoretically, your W reticle is centered now. Now turn the Elevation knob all the way to one side. Turn the knob all the way back, counting the MOA adjustment (a.k.a., "clicks"). Then divide that number of clicks by 2 (let's say your result is 100 divided by 2). Turn the E knob back 50 clicks.

In my example above, W turned 120 clicks (30 MOA) from one side to the other, while E turned only 100 clicks (25 MOA)... this could happen if your scope came from the factory with the reticles misaligned--to fix the error, just run through this exercise 2 or 3 times; the more you do it, the closer to "neutral" you'll set your reticles.

When you've finished this, you can try and align your scope in the rings so that the "neutral" crosshairs are 'zeroed' on your target. This method will allow you the most W&E adjustments from your zeroed yardage.

"Free" mounting, like what's usually offered during a gun sale, won't often include this scope refinement. Sometimes folks will complain that they've run out of adjustment for either W or E--it's common to see someone complain, "my rifle's set for 100yd zero, but when I try to adjust the Elevation knob for 4MOA high (48 clicks), I run out of adjustment at 2 1/2 MOA (10 clicks)." It's because the scope wasn't bore-sighted with the reticles at a "neutral" center--instead of mounting a scope with neutrally-centered reticles that would look like this --> +, the reticles are actually oriented more like an upside down version of the Christian cross, (where the E reticle is biased low, in this example--kind of like an upside-down lower case "t"). If a scope is mounted in this manner, the E adjustment is half-used up during installation (and by virtue of the E's poor setting, the W adjustments are partially inhibited also).

**my MOA calculations are set on the generally-accepted value that 1MOA equals 4 clicks--however, there are a few scopes that have knobs that are set so that 8 clicks is 1MOA (and mebbe there are even scopes set at 6/1moa sad.gif ).
 
Well I had the scope mounted and the scope mount put on by a local gunsmith. I am half-wondering if the mount is a gimmick. I am not really interested in paying any more 'smith work.
I shot about 75 rounds out of it, adjusting the turret every so often. Finally reached the end of the adjustment and was still 2 inches to the right on 25 yards.
I am considering putting the scope on a 22 pistol or finding a used 41 mag Hunter Blackhawk that is setup for Ruger rings. And just use sights for this Blackhawk.
I can try the shimming myself.
 
First off, I encourage you to NEVER shim a scope by way of the rings. Maybeso the base, or the rings on the base. The scope tube is round. The rings are round. A shim makes the rings no longer round, hence you have in essence a round pin in a square hole--granted that's an exageration, but the point of no longer round rings remains.

It sounds as though you either got a poor mounting job, a faulty base, or faulty rings. The last 2 are doubtful. The base or the rings (and I realize that there may not be a base involved, as I don't know the system being used) need to be moved. You mention a Ruger Blackhawk. If that is the gun you are referring to, it has no base, the rings attaching directly. If that is the case, it's hard to say where the foul-up is (there IS one), but it can be addressed with shims or machine work, (not shims on the scope). Just as the other fellow said, a scope, when properly mounted, should be pretty close to "on" with both the elevation and windage in the center of the adjustment range, whether rifle or pistol, or shotgun for that matter.
 
+1
Shimming inside the ring would have no effect on zero anyway, except by the amount of tube damage it caused.

Putting a shim on the inside of the ring doesn't make any more room for the scope to move over on the other side of the ring, unless it crushes the tube!

1224.jpg
rcmodel
 
Pretty much correct, especially on the side--but I reckon you realize that a lot of misinformed do it! I mean, a lot! Disregarding the harm, if put on the bottom, it will move the scope up, impact down (referring to the front ring; vice versa regarding the back ring).
 
Last edited:
Yea, I am thinking I will give the mount to a buddy that has time on his hands and a Ruger Blackhawk in 44 Mag that wants to try a scope.

I can use the scope for one of those Ruger Mk III I have been eyeing. Should make for a nice squirrel gun.

Much Thanks.
 
Why not return it to the gunsmith for correction? Unless he did something that obviously looks wrong, that is what I would do. Though he probably should have caught the problem when collimating, he didn't. Since collimating is of limited value on most handguns for elevation, some won't check the windage either. Did you ever make a mistake at work? Most of us do occasionally. Give him a chance to correct things. I hate returns, but not as much as having disgruntled customers.

David
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top