My improved Colt Cartridge works and Remington .36 conical

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Outlaw Kid

Have you done a tutorial on how to make your thin lube wads?

If you have, could you give us a link?

If not, could you please explain?

Thanks
IronHand
 
Mr.Ironhand54, i would love to share the link/tutorial where i show how to make my thin lube disks but i dont remember where i posted it. So ill just tell you how i do it.

First make the lube of your choice. I sometimes use the Gatofeo lube but have now stuck to a very stiff lube consisting of. 1:5 or 1:6 ratio of mutton tallow to beeswax. This is by weight. I set the lube aside and usually just make "bars" of lube that i can cut up into whichever size and weight i want. Now comes time to make the lube disks. These are made just like making felt wads but instead of felt i am using paper towels. I use a bread pan that has a bottom measuring 4x8 inches, then i cut a paper towel with scissors to measure 4x8 inches. I place the paper towel inside the bread pan where it npw fits perfectly at the bottom of the pan. I place the pan on top of my electric stoves coil and turn the heat to "low". I then add a chunk of waxy lube that weighs 20 grams...i place it in the pan on top of the paper towel and let it melt and soak in evenly into the paper towel. Once fully melted i take the pan off of the stove and let it cool off naturally or in the freezer. Once the waxy lube solidifies i pop it out of the pan and im left with a thin sheet of waxy lube. I then use a 3/8th inch punch from Harbor Frieght and punch out some disks...just as you would if you were making homemade felt wads. This method is by far the best method i have used to date and i have tried many.
 
Thank you Mr.Articap, i dont even remember those posts lol. Since that post i have stuck to the thin disks made from paper towel and hard lube. It seems to be the method that takes up the least amount of space in the chamber and works amazing....i have found that the thinner the disk the more lube gets utilized because its so thin it doesnt take much heat and time for it to disintegrate in the barrel. Whereas thick disks and felt wads use up a lot of lube and most gets wasted being shot out the barrel unused...and its thickness makes it harder to melt so it doesnt leave behind as much lube as the thin disks. Not sure if my explanation makes much sense...i feel its hard to explain in text form. Oh and these disks work great with gatofeo #1 formula and the Emmerts lube fofmula....although since its so hot in my area i make the formulas a bit stiffer by adding more beeswax. If anyone tries the thin paper towel lube disk technique ive been posting...then please post your experience as id like to know how it worked for you.
 
Outlaw Kid, I will look for the RAW rolling papers and give them a try. Just yesterday-Fri, 3/20-I decided to use up the last of my older cone shaped .36 paper cartridges which contained no internal lube. About two months ago I had dipped the front end of each in melted Gatofeo lube, and again saw no lube migration or contamination. Two Navies, a 51 Pietta and a 61 Uberti, were both shot 36 rounds each. While I experienced no problems, the amount of paper residue was noticeably heavier than when using your method.
 
Mr. Navy Six 2, i thank you for your assessment of my method of making paper cartridges. I always figured that an uneven burn of powder occured when using the cone shaped cartridges because its shoved into the chamber and the paper gets jammed inside getting wrinkled and making air pockets and even powder getting stuck between wrinkled bits of paper. This causes uneven burn and also folded crumbled up paper is harder to burn and takes up limited chamber space. Thats when i had the idea of a straight walled paper cartridge...one that slides evenly and snuggly into a chamber. No air pockets , no hard to burn crumbled up paper, and no powder being sandwitched inbetween wrinkles of paper. So everything gets burned evenly and exposed to the same amount of flame and pressures. I am very glad it worked well for you. So long as you keep the cartridges the Same size and weight and apply the same seating pressures...then your speed/power should be very consistent from shot to shot.
 
A big shout out of thanks to theoutlawkid for sharing your methods of rolling paper cartridges! I doubt I will ever go back to pouring from a flask with my revolvers. I just roll the powder, no projectile, into a cigarette paper. Can do up enough in an hour or so to do as much shooting as I desire. Thanks again, been shooting black powder for over 40 years now and always look forward to learning something different.
 
A big shout out of thanks to theoutlawkid for sharing your methods of rolling paper cartridges! I doubt I will ever go back to pouring from a flask with my revolvers. I just roll the powder, no projectile, into a cigarette paper. Can do up enough in an hour or so to do as much shooting as I desire. Thanks again, been shooting black powder for over 40 years now and always look forward to learning something different.


Mr.Jackrabbit1957, thank you very much for the compliment. Im glad that sharing my method was helpful to another person. Whenever you get a chance tell us how they performed for you and your set up. Thanks again sir!
 
Been using a .430 diameter steel punch, Bugler rolling papers and 25 grains of powder for my 1851 and 1860 revolvers. I glue a disc of thinner paper on the bottom with Duro brand all purpose glue. I remove the cylinder from the gun and use it as a holding fixture with an empty 9mm case turned upside down in one of the chambers. I then add the powder, trim the end to about 3/8 and fold it over and glue the end. So far its worked great. No residue left behind. Been shooting a Lee 200 grain conical sized to .451 and lubed.
 
Mr.jackrabbit1957 that sounds amazing! Would love to see your work if you ever get a chance to take pics! Im glad its working for you. I have used Bugler and Tops papers...they work great and i was able to get 3 perfect. .36 cal paper cartridges from each sheet. They are strong enough nog to break up when tossed around...very durrable.
 
Kid: Is there any reason why this process could not be applied to BP side lock rifle using a nipple charger, as below, to help the flame get around the corner?

I would be concerned about any residue left, but the DUCO glue is a nitrocellulose glue and is flammable, even more so if diluted in acetone. These would be straight wall cartridges so there is no worry about tapered cartridges aiding residue. Better'n tearing the top off with your teeth...

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Kid: Is there any reason why this process could not be applied to BP side lock rifle using a nipple charger, as below, to help the flame get around the corner?

I would be concerned about any residue left, but the DUCO glue is a nitrocellulose glue and is flammable, even more so if diluted in acetone. These would be straight wall cartridges so there is no worry about tapered cartridges aiding residue. Better'n tearing the top off with your teeth...

View attachment 992401View attachment 992401

I believe the nipple charger was developed with side locks in mind...im sure it would easily bust through a thin paper cartridge. That would be some experiment!
 
You can tell for @TheOutlawKid this is a labor of love. Those darn paper cartridges look better then my shiny brass ones. Good job brother. I really like the remington design. A little lee liquid alox and they'd be good to run all day

Thank you mr.blackpowderwarrior for the kind words...it really is a labor of love, and i dont blame some folks for not wanting to go as in depth as some of the other crude paper cartridges work just as well as mine. But i enjoy the time and patience it takes....especially the guaranteed performance and lack of paper residue.
 
Thank you mr.blackpowderwarrior for the kind words...it really is a labor of love, and i dont blame some folks for not wanting to go as in depth as some of the other crude paper cartridges work just as well as mine. But i enjoy the time and patience it takes....especially the guaranteed performance and lack of paper residue.

I appreciate your write ups. You are a real asset to the bp community at large.
 
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