Neck Sizing for new Reloader

Status
Not open for further replies.

O.T. Powell

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
25
Location
Port Orange, FL
I am thinking about buyin the dies for neck sizing.. Looking at redding type S bushing type die and redding body die. My question is, might be a stupid one, but, how do I get the diameter of the bushing that I need for the die? Fireform, then use mic and measure neck diameter? I have factory rifle and chamber.. It wouldn't be basic 308 diameter would it? Proally like 310 or 11 right? As for case annealing, am going to buy that tempquile stuff that indicates temp and use a propane torch.. Should I heat to 650 or 750? Im not goin to turn my necks I herd that it's more problems than it's worth. How many times will basic 30-06 brass last if I FL resize everytime vs neck sizing? Is neck sizing really worth it?
 
I just got the Redding Type S neck Match set. You load up a dummy round of the specific case & bullet and measure the neck.Then subtract .001 and that will be your bushing size. Redding suggested I get the next lower size as well for when neck gets thinner and still get neck tension. I'm loading up some 308 Win right now using Lapua cases and Hornady 168gr Amax's. So I got .338"...I got .337,.336,.335 bushings. I got the titanium nitride coated ones and didn't need to use neck lube. It's all on 2nd page of Redding's catalog.


Rikman
 
Last edited:
If your barrel, action, and bullets are not up to it, all that will be a waste of time.

If they are, it can sometimes help accuracy.

Neck turning is most often used for tight necked custom chambers. Other than that it is mostly a waste of time IMO. At the most take off enough so 3/4 or so of the neck has some brass removed. Getting too thin isn't good either.

Since it is .30-06, I am going to assume hunting. If it is, I would not waste my time neck sizing etc. I would partial full length size and call it good. That will usually shoot extremely well, or at least as well as the gun is capable of unless it is match grade.

With partial full length sizing your brass will last a long time. If you have turned the necks they will be getting worked even more to fill the chamber, and will often split sooner than if you left them alone. After all, we are looking to work the brass as little as possible when we partial full length size.

I wish I had marked a fairly recent thread where we discussed PFLS in great detail. The definition was also debated a bit. Very good thread.

Here is a thread that shows different ways to measure where the shoulder is so we can bump it a set amount.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6270171#post6270171

What I call partial full length sizing (PFLS) is this. We adjust our sizer so that we bump the shoulder a couple of thousandths. That way the brass is a tight fit in OUR chamber, reducing headspace which reduces case stretching just above the web, prolonging brass life.

When we fire a round at full pressure it expands the brass case to fit the chamber. The brass springs back a hair enabling us to eject it. (This is one of the qualities of brass that makes it ideal for the application.)

Now we have a brass case that we can use various tools to measure where the shoulder is. Understand that it is slightly smaller than the chamber now. Start sizing the case a little at a time and getting measurements off the shoulder with whatever tool you decide to use. At first as the brass body is squeezed smaller the shoulder will move forward. Eventually as we turn the sizer down a little more the inner shoulder of the die will contact the shoulder of the case and begin to push it back. Go slow or you will go too far. We want to bump the shoulder back .001 to .003 max.

If the round was a light load, the brass will not fit the chamber well and if we push the shoulder back from there it will be too much. We need brass from a good full power load to set up the sizer. I like to use a case that has seen at least two full load firings on it, to be sure it is fully formed to the chamber, minus the spring back of course.

You can go one step further by using a full length sizer that uses bushings instead of an expander plug. That will work the brass less at the neck and eliminates the expander, which is the biggest cause of necks that are not concentric after sizing.

Bushing size? Mic a loaded round and subtract .002. That bushing will be close, but I don't know anyone who has ever managed to buy just one bushing, cause the math doesn't always work. Besides, we always wonder if a little more or a little less neck tension will shoot better and buy more bushings anyway.

Let me beat Larry to it and plug his nice headspace gauge first.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

It measures where the shoulder is so we can measure how much we set the shoulder back, keeping headspace to a minimum. There are other tools out there as well, from fancy to simple.

AC
 
Neck sizing...

O. T. Powell--You have a factory rifle & chamber. You want to neck-size yr brass (I expect, to save wear & tear on the brass.) You are NOT shooting a custom-chambered target rifle.

Therefore I have a suggestion that will save you some $$ and still get you into the neck-sizing business, and make yr ammo more accurate to boot.

What you oughta get for a neck-sizing die, IMHO, is the Lee Collet Neck-sizing die. They work like gangbusters for a factory chamber, and the ammo they produce is nice and concentric and accurate.

I have the Lee Collet die in several cartridges myself, for bolt rifles with factory chambers, and have been well satisfied with the accuracy of the ammo they produce.

As a plus, they're considerably less pricey than a Redding competition-grade neck die.

You can get the Lee dies at any of the big mail-order places, for less than Lee's catalogue price, but Lee has the best info abt. their dies. Lee website: www.leeprecision.com
 
Neck sizing does extend brass life considerably, and collet neck sizer's are even better according to what other's here are saying. Personally I just neck and then slightly bump the shoulder back when necessary.
 
...how do I get the diameter of the bushing that I need for the die? Fireform, then use mic and measure neck diameter? I have factory rifle and chamber.. It wouldn't be basic 308 diameter would it? Proally like 310 or 11 right?

The bushing sizes the outside of the neck, so it would be considerably larger than .310" or .311". Depending upon the make of brass, you will be using bushings between .330" and .338". As has been stated, measure a loaded round at the neck using the same make of brass you intend to use, and subtract .002" from it. Another consideration, measure the outside neck diameter of a fired case from your rifle's chamber, and if you need to reduce the neck diameter more than .005", then buy an intermediate size bushing also, so that you don't reduce the neck diameter more than .005" in one fell swoop.

As for case annealing, am going to buy that tempquile stuff that indicates temp and use a propane torch.. Should I heat to 650 or 750?

Why are you annealing? Brass comes from the factory annealed, and until you have reloaded a case many times, there is no need to anneal it again.

Don
 
The Lee Deluxe Die Set would be the choice because at some point you will need to full length size your brass.

The collet necksizing die will handle your needs on brass fired in your chamber, but eventually they get tight in the chamber and you'll need to push the shoulder back to spec.

As USSR mentioned, annealing is way down the road, and the price of new '06 brass is not that prohibitive.
If you had hard to find brass, then annealing would make sense.



NCsmitty
 
Wow thanx for all the great advice guys.. How do I set my die to partial full length size? I don't get it. As for the annealing part, I don't need to anneal yet but, I'm the type of guy who likes to learn and acquire things before they are actually needed, so that I will be prepared for when I actually have a use for them. Maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit.. How many reloadings is it usually before you have to anneal, in general? I know there are alot of variables when it comes to this stuff. I have to lee collet and the redding dies in my shopping cart.. Doing a lil more research before I decide on one and check out. I do plan on buying a match grade rifle in the future.. So maybe redding is a good thing to buy and learn.
 
How do I set my die to partial full length size? I don't get it.

O.T. Powell,

Since it sounds like you are new to reloading, I would not worry about partial full length resizing. Just buy whatever dies you want and get experience turning out ammo that fits your rifle's chamber and is safe. The little "tricks" here and there will come with experience.

As for the annealing part, I don't need to anneal yet but, I'm the type of guy who likes to learn and acquire things before they are actually needed, so that I will be prepared for when I actually have a use for them. Maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit.

Yes, you are jumping the gun big time. I have reloaded and shot thousands of shells, and I have never (and don't intend to) annealed a single case. This simply is not a normal routine in reloading ammo, and as NCsmitty said, is really not worthwhile with .30-06 brass.

Don
 
I use the Lee collet for neck sizing works great for my use very little trimming of brass, I full size after 8-9 times and trim if necessary, I'm talking 223 and 204 ruger, other calibers may be different.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top