The actual recoil doesn't hurt the scope at all, but the reverse recoil causes lots of problems, even breaking scopes. You should first try shimming the scope, regardless of what scope you end up with. Basically you want the body of the scope to match the barrel angle, or better yet the poi. As it is you probably have the elevation cranked out counter clockwise, so the scope is straight, barrel pointing down, pellet hitting even lower, and you have the elevation screw cranked out to make up for it. Sound about right?
To shim a scope I center the W/E screws, which is half way between fully in or out, or you can just look down inside the front lens and eyeball center. Shims can be made of many things, but metal is probably best, like that of a soda can. Put the cut to size shims (meaning full width fore/aft, and maybe 70-80% of the ring left to right) on the rear mounts saddle under the scope so it tilts the scope to point down more. How thick a stack of shims depends on how much the barrel is pointing down, and each additional shim should be a bit shorter (left to right) so the scope can still fit in there. Once you get shimmed so it's close to on target you can lock the ring caps down for good and use the W/E to dial it in normally. If you're wondering why, aside from wanting the lenses aligned, you want the inner tube of the scope to stay put. Looking into the front lens you can see there's a leaf spring holding the inner tube against the W/E screws, so when the screw(s) are cranked out it takes pressure off the leaf spring. Normally not a big deal in a firearm, but the reverse recoil is high G it can make that inner tube bounce and it doesn't always land back in the same spot. Having the screws turned half way in puts more spring tension on the tube to hold it better. Some people take it further and crank in an extra turn or so, including the windage screw, and shim accordingly. Another important item imo is repair and/or replace the main seal which no doubt leaks. Leaks at the main or breech seals cause higher G's, even breaking the scope. It's also a good idea to sand the seal to raise the compression ratio, similar to a car engine by reducing the dished space at the center of the piston. Reduce, not eliminate because the center is metal and if that hits the breech things will be much worse. Fixing the seal leaks and bumping compression also bumps power and makes the gun smoother and quieter. If this work is done correctly then you may even get away with a scope not rated for airguns, which I have done many times. Another problem is parallax, many firearm scopes have a fixed parallax of 100yards which is not usable for airgun ranges and will cause mysterious accuracy issues similar to the inner tube moving. Fortunately you can adjust parallax. Airgun scopes are typically set to 33yards, which is better, but many people at 10-20 yards so it's still be a problem. All this can be a pita, but at minimum you need to shim, and adj parallax if needed.
If you buy another scope I'd suggest one with adjustable parallax which is much easier to set for whatever range you're shooting at. That way you can go from 10yard targets to 50 yard shots very quickly. A typical 3-9x40AO is a good choice for an airgun and usually reasonably priced. You should also have a good scope ring setup, which you mentioned is holding, but keep an eye on it for aft movement. I have more detailed info on all of this stuff if needed, including more things to worry about but this post is already long.
