need a quick fix for a broken bolt spring?

[Woodenshoe]

Hello all,

I just wrote quite an introduction, as I'm both new to this forum as well as new to black powder shooting, and wrote a suggestion on how to repair a broken bolt spring on a 1860 colt reproduction (I had to figure that out for my 1860 Pietta Sheriff), but then my laptop decided to go low on power.... All gone.... ;-(

Oh, well, I didn't want to deprive you of my idea of how to fix a broken bolt spring, so here's a second try. But I'll keep it shorter for now ;-)

I noticed today, that after full-cock the cylinder still seemed to rotate. It turned out that the spring's bolt-finger was broken. The trigger finger of it was still OK though.

I solved it with just a ballpoint-spring, two pliers and all well within 30 minutes.
And best of all, it seems to be a good permanent fix when carried out well (at least, so it seems to me).

Keep about 1/4" of a ballpoint spiral spring as is, and at both sides of this 1/4" spring part just bend the remaining spring into straight ends of about 1" each, both going in the same outward direction. Cut off the remainder. The trick is, to bend a small round eye at each of these straight legs (after cutting them to the right length). These eyes go around the visable part of the bolt's bolt (they go in the slit in the bolt's midst). With both legs attached around the bolt's bolt, one end of the 1/4" spring part sits on top of the far end of the bolt. Looking into the mechanics towards the cylinder, is in fact looking into the spiral of the 1/4" spring part. With the bolt in the engaged (cylinder locked) position, and one end of the spiral resting on the bolt's end, you should see the other end of the spiral stick out well above the casing. Thus, when we mount the trigger guard plate on it, that end of the spiral will be pressed down, which sets the spiral spring under tension, and will provide the lock up-force for the bolt. Chances are that a second or third ballpoint will have to be ruined to get it right, but mine worked straight away! The windings of the about 1/4" spring, when compressed, should not be higher than the distance from the bolt's end to the top of the casing (in half cock). At the same time, the 1/4" spring part should have an non-compressed length of two or so windings greater than the distance from the bolt end to the top of the casing (in full cock). Best determine the actually needed spring part length first, in stead of taking the 1/4" mentioned (that 1/4" was just to give an idea of approximate size).
Of course, check for a flawless bolt action first, before shooting...

Have fun you all!

 

[DD4lifeusmc]

spring

pictures would help immensely

 

[Woodenshoe]

Hmmmm, I guess that you're right about that. But here it's 02:47 AM, and it'll be rise and shine at 07:00... But I'll give it a try tomorrow...

 

[Smokin'Joe]

Photos often work better than words:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=623759

 

[4v50 Gary]

bobby pins work too. Whatever it takes to keep it running.

 

[Woodenshoe]

Thank you. Using the same hole to fix the spring I see, and using a safety pin, nice thought!
I wasn't aware of your post. Anyway, it's nice of you to exchange such info and help eachother. Mine is somewhat different. Where you have open spring hands, the one touching the bolt and the other the trigger guard, my cylindrical spring is attached between these spring hands whereas it's eyes around the pin have no spring action. Mine works much like a cylindrical spring in car suspension, and seems to enable to set an optimal tension by choosing for more or less coils. I've got to get to work now, but will be happy to post a photo later today.

 

[45 Dragoon]

I think it would be easier to replace the combo spring than using coils, wires and what ever. Replacements aren't expensive and if you will reduce the tension on the bolt to 2-3 lbs., it will probably be the last time you will replace it. Using a thin washer under the spring will help reduce a lot of the tension and help lessen the "tuning" of it ( which doesn't take much!).

 

[44 Dave]

Bolt spring tension, Colt spects. , 6 1/2 lb. max. - 5 lb. min.
I use a trigger tension scale, measurement is made when the bolt is pressed flush into the water table.
45 Dragoon, what do you set them at?

 

[45 Dragoon]

Hey Dave,
I set them at 3 lbs. when tuning a S.A. The suggestion comes from an old time, well respected S.A. specialist. It has worked well for me (and that is the correct method of measuring).

 

[Woodenshoe]

Picturezzz...

Hi there,

I managed to make some pictures. I used an endoscope camera for those, and will add two pictures of the Pietta's inside in a second post. An amazing little camera of just 7 mm diameter on 5 m USB cable.

Anyway, here are the pictures. It's self-explaining I guess. I read about 3 to 5 pounds of pressure, but this setup won't bring that. It sure gives enough pressure to positively lock the cylinder in one go, and keep it locked, but I can imagine that an original spring will be best. Allthough, those original springs are too strong in my humble opinion, and stress the hand and hand-pin way more than necessary. I'll get one of those and try to make the hand finger a bit thinner from the top side of it only (leaving the side towards the hand untouched, as cracks most likely would start on that tension-stressed side).
I would have done that straight away, if I only had an original spring at hand. This spiral-spring thing maybe isn't a proper way to fix it, but sure is the prepper way! ;-)
Anyway, it works and might save one's day at the range...

Happy shooting to you all,
Andre

 

[Woodenshoe]

endoscope pictures

Oh, geez, a hand isn't a bolt. I should have written "and stress the bolt and bolt-pin way more than necessary". I'm not a native speaker, so you'll probably excuse me for my English...

Here are a few endoscope pictures. Both of the bore of my Pietta, the latter with the cylinder rotated a bot and shows both chambers. The endoscope has 6 built-in led's and is a real (Chinese of course) marvel. The only thing is that objects closer than 6 cm are out of focus. You can find them on Ebay, and they make a real good inspection instrument. USB cable lengths up to 7 meters, so they will fit your bore ;-)

Sorry for this being a bit off-topic, but just as it might please some...

Regards,
Andre

 

[Old Fuff]

Great pictures, and they do make a big difference when it comes to understanding.

 

[Jim K]

There are wire spring replacements for that combo spring that act on both the bolt and the trigger. They work fine, but of course are not "traditional."

Jim

 

[Smokin'Joe]

Interesting design, Woodenshoe.