NEED HELP - Stuck Threads on Gas Cylinder Nut of Baikal MP153 / Remington 453 Spartan

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Mike1234567

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A neighbor of mine has a Baikal MP153. If you don't already know it's the same as a Remington 453 Spartan. He bought it used through GB. Overall it's really nice but the gas cylinder nut is frozen solid.

I'm seeking forum advice for him because he doesn't have internet service at home.

How can he remediate this problem? Could he safely soak the entire gas system in Windex or maybe just a weak solution of blue Joy dish soap? None of the cleaners he's tried are working. I'm sorry but I can't remember what cleaners he tried but I do know they're all oil-based... not water-based.

All advice is appreciated.

-- Posted on TFL also. --
 
I would for sure not recommend a water based cleaner.

If he can't get it apart to clean it out?
Adding more water based cleaner to cause internal rust is not going to help matters any.

I would suggest a good soak with penetrating oil and try again.
Whacking it with a plastic hammer to jar the threads may help the oil to get in better.
Maybe a little heat if all else fails.

rc
 
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Thanks, folks.

Please post your suggestions for the best penetrating oil to dissolve spent gunpowder.

Hey rodinal220... are you an old-time B&W photographer by chance?
 
Liquid Wrench, Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.

Just about any brand you can find locally will work as well as another one.

rc
 
Okay... I think I'll buy a gallon of Marvell's Mystery Oil. I can give him a quart and use the rest to run through my car's fuel system, along with Toluene, to clean out residue and crud.

ETA: Can we safely use a 50/50 mix of Marvell's Mystery Oil and toluene? Are there any plastic or rubber parts to worry about? Will the toluene damage the finish or lettering?
 
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Just a word of caution - the gas cylinder on MP153 is not meant to be disassembled for cleaning. Every time one disassembles it it must be regulated again and that is a tricky job! The gas cylinder has no plastic parts and everything is blued - as long as he is not using acid it is OK. I think, that the problem is from carbon residue - why don't you soak it first with some carbon build up cleaner, or even water and soap? As long as he dries it good after that there wont be a problem.

Boris

P.S. Klever (the guys that make Ballistol) makes a black powder cleaner that works very well and with smokeless residue - Robla Solo Blackpowder Solvent
http://ballistol.de/english/index.php?page=01&sub=05&sub2=38
 
^^^ I asked about a mild solution of water and blue Joy dish soap but I was cautioned to NOT use a water solution because of rust.

I do know that gunpowder residue is water-soluble, not oil-soluble.

I just hate being ignorant. It makes tasks far more difficult.

PLEASE tell me more about the Robla Solo Blackpowder Solvent.
 
^^^ That's two of the components of Ed's Red gun cleaner. :) Any particular reason for leaving out the mineral spirits, lanolin and CAS #64741-49-9 solvent?
 
Mike, about Robla cleaner - it works really well. I don't know what are the ingredients, but it's harmless to the weapon. If you can find it in the US I suggest you to get it. About those secret special formulas being mentioned here - a simple metal container filled with diesel fuel and the part soaked for an hour works wonders about residue and loosening rusted parts. It's cheap, available and it doesn't rusts steel.

Boris
 
^^^ Just diesel alone? We'll have to give that a try first since it's a very cheap option... and I really like cheap.:D I called my neighbor with the diesel suggestion and he's going to try it tonight. He already has diesel fuel at his house so this is very convenient for him.

ETA: I searched for "Robla Solvent" without the "quotes" and found nothing. If it's available here I may have trouble finding it.
 
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Mike1234567:"Hey rodinal220... are you an old-time B&W photographer by chance? "_______________


Yes,you have a keen eye.
 
No, not a keen eye... I just LOVE Rodinal and the defunct Agfapan films... magical combination with the right techniques. I think the nearest replacement for AP is Efke but I haven't been on the film forums in AGES so I'm not sure.

But I'm de-railing my own thread. :D

My neighbor hasn't tried the diesel yet. When he does I'll report back with success or failure. I'll then give him some of the PB Blaster I just bought and will report back with results of that too.
 
UPDATE: My neighbor never got around to trying diesel fuel and neither of us mixed any Ed's Red. However, I bought a gallon of BP Blaster the other day and soaked his gas valve for 24 hours. It broke loose with very little effort tonight. We sprayed some cleaner through it and the run-off kept coming out extremely dirty. So we adjusted the gas to the opposite side that it was delivered and I'm soaking it another 24 hours in BP Blaster tonight. We'll use the BP Blaster we soaked it in to spray through the valve tomorrow night as we work the adjustment back and forth.

PROBLEM SOLVED... THANK YOU!!
 
I find that PB BLaster, Hoppes #9, and acetone are the three most useful solvents in my gun room. If soaking it in Blaster for a good long time does not loosen a rusted part it is galled together and not going to come apart ever. Just be careful with it on plastic parts as it might eat the plastic clean away.
 
Yeah, I loosened the threads and moved the setting to the opposite side and soaked all night again. I sloshed the PB Blaster in and out of the gas adjuster and the solution became darker. I moved the adjustment to the opposite side again and sloshed some more. That PB Blaster is getting really dark now. I'm letting it soak overnight again. I'm betting the previous owner NEVER cleaned this shotgun.
 
I wouldn't recommend Marvel Mystery oil be used anywhere near a gun. The stuff contains chlorine. Don't put it in your engines oil either. Chlorine + water = hydrochloric acid, and moisture in the air is enough water.
 
^^^ Thanks... I didn't know that. Good thing I opted for PB Blaster then. So when I add chlorine bleach to my laundry I'm washing my clothes in acid?:)
 
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