Discussion in 'Firearms Research' started by george29, Aug 5, 2019.
put them on gunbroker. Dont make any type-o's and they should bring what they are worth.
I know it isn't a funny situation, but the way you worded it made me laugh.
Nice guns. I agree with the others. You'll get more if you break them up.
Another break them up.
With the new Marlins hitting the shelves here and getting good reviews, the older used levers went going for as much as they did. I'd expect (and this is only pricing locally) to still get 550-600 for the Marlin. The rugers would be about 400 for the blued and 450-500 for the stainless.
our low prices don't go as low as the mainland, and our highs don't go as high usually.....I think supply and demand, as well as a lack of collectors leaves most gun prices about middling.
I bet you put them up on the forums here separately and folks will buy them pretty quick.
Break 'em up.
Stick 'em on Gunbroker with a penny auction, no reserve, some good photos and I am willing to bet you will get what they are worth. Not only that, but you will probably get more than you are willing to settle for. Anytime I want/need to sell one, that's my method of liquidation. I have always been able to realize at least what I want and mostly a little more. Sometimes, a lot more.
Anyway, that's what I would do....
If you had a car for sale that was high demand would you put a for sale ad, that stipulated that the purchaser would have to buy two other cars that he does not want?
I have seen that very scenerio more than once watching car shows on Discovery or History....
For what its worth, its not uncommon for in demand products to be tied to slow moving products to get the dogs moved, at least within the firearms industry
You can get a lot for a JM Marlin. People still pay a premium for them.
Thank you for your replies. It's like asking to cut off an arm or take out an eye.
I'm still undecided so I'll see how I feel later.
Interesting, I was always wondering if the penny auction approach was better than the minimum set opening bid for sellers on Gunbroker. I don't even bid on those with hidden reserve prices as that is kinda pointless.
Thanks for posting this or any other experiences as a seller on Gunbroker.
I rarely bother to view most of the GB ads with a reserve price, unless I am looking for specific information.
Once upon a time, I sold a Remington 700 semi-custom rifle on GB with the PA, NR strategy and would have been satisfied with $1500 for it. It sold for $2700 plus a little. I usually use all the tools I can to generate views when building my auction. And I have found the best tool is the PA, NR. If you really want to sell, why put a reserve on it or a minimum bid? Something is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it on any given day. Nothing more.
Once upon a time, I was selling a Colt Python, 6" blued,excellent condition with the original box in fair shape. Just for giggles and grins, I put a views counter on it. I monitored a similar ad for a "NIB" Python with a reserve price and a minimum opening bid. I compared the views of his ad after the auction expired (did not sell) to the views my Penny Auction, No Reserve ad. My ad had a little more than 3x the views of the other ad and my Python sold for more than I expected. Penny auctions usually start pretty slow. There is always someone that wants to be 'that guy' that steals one for next to nothing, and you will get those silly low ball bids. Don't worry. If you wrote a good ad, used the best tools to build it and took good, clear photos, there will be at least a couple of guys that will be willing to pay an honest value for your gun.
IMHO, it is a rare thing that a gun doesn't bring its full value on GB if the seller does his homework and puts together a good auction ad.
Browning is notorious for that; high minimum order and if you want the good stuff that sells, you also have to take some of the dogs that don't, or no order.
I do a lot of selling on Gunbroker.
I never run an auction. I sell everything with a Buy Now price.
The price I ask is usually fair for both buyer and seller.
You can research what a similar unit sold for under completed auctions.
What people ask for is irrelevant, it's what they actually sold for.
Price it according to it's condition with as many clear pictures as possible and if it is priced
fair, it will sell. Many buyers (like myself) hate the auction process especially if there is a reserve.
I will not bid on any reserve auctions even if it is something I "need".
With the Buy Now price listed, any buyer can decide if that is a good price or not and they can buy it
right there if the price is fair. No waiting a week or 10 days or whenever. This also feeds the impulse buyers.
If you see the JM actually selling for $850, list yours for $825.
One price, yes or no to any buyer. No waiting. No BS.
If it's a nice piece and priced fairly, it will sell.
If you're just going to sell it at a fixed price, you might also look into listing on www.gunsinternational.com - it is a sale site, NOT an auction site. You'll many brick and mortar establishments there with HUGE credibility like Holland and Holland's NY store, the Beretta Gallery, Cole's and a host of others, as well as individuals or small stores. I do not know offhand if their fees are different. I prefer to look there over GB, AA or similar auction sites.
The "Ruger only" loads only applied to the ones in 45 Colt. Most 45 Colt revolvers are restricted to milder loads not much hotter than the old black powder loads because there isn't enough metal between the chamber walls. The old models Rugers in all cartridges were much larger, thicker, and heavier and could be loaded a bit hotter. There are Ruger only loads in some manuals for 45 Colt, not any other cartridge. The problem is that the guns are so fat and chunky that it actually detracts from their value.
The newer model guns are trimmed down to specs much closer to the original Colt revolvers. That doesn't effect the ones in 357, the newer versions will take any 357 mag load just like the older versions. The new models in 45 Colt should not be used the hotter loads. Not enough metal around the chamber walls.
So, I paid $425 for the blue Vaquero, $625 for the Stainless, and $450 for the Marlin.
Listened to you guys, spoke to one of my gunshop people and decided not to get rid of them.
Now I'm contemplating the M&P340 which I recently learned that I suck shooting and am wondering if I go down that path. I fingered the 938 and it was nice, different gun shop wants $500 for a used one, or I could listen to the other gunshop guy who truly thinks that Ruger is about to put out a 22mag Bearcat. Wouldn't that be great? Either way, I still carry the 340 but the 640 feels better as it's much heavier and has a better grip. I OWB the 640 and it doesn't even raise an eyebrow .
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