I just got a 10/22 today for $200 brand nib otd from wal-mart. What are your suggestions for match trigger groups? I want something that will be durable and stand up to alot of casual shooting with little maintinance. I was thinking of the Valquatrsen (sp?).
New 10/22
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Fumbler
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Get the Volquartsen hammer.
Get only the hammer and forget all the other parts, they are often unreliable or simply don't give you enough gain for the cost.
IMO the three best options for triggers in a 10/22:
1 - get a VQ hammer
2 - rework the factory hammer yourself (I don't recommend this for most people)
3 - get a KIDD trigger group.
Anything else is a waste of money.
Get only the hammer and forget all the other parts, they are often unreliable or simply don't give you enough gain for the cost.
IMO the three best options for triggers in a 10/22:
1 - get a VQ hammer
2 - rework the factory hammer yourself (I don't recommend this for most people)
3 - get a KIDD trigger group.
Anything else is a waste of money.
borrowedtime69
Member
what i did to mine
i bought one and got rid of everything but the reciever and trigger group.
I just put in the Power Customs Target Hammer and that alone took my trigger pull down to about 2 1/2 pounds. easy installation, low cost (Cabellas for under $30). now its a pleasure to shoot and deadly accurate with its Clerke 16" BBL and Volquarsen Bolt Buffer.
i bought one and got rid of everything but the reciever and trigger group.
I just put in the Power Customs Target Hammer and that alone took my trigger pull down to about 2 1/2 pounds. easy installation, low cost (Cabellas for under $30). now its a pleasure to shoot and deadly accurate with its Clerke 16" BBL and Volquarsen Bolt Buffer.
borrowedtime69
Member
Matt
the after market hammers have a very small ledge that catches the sear, and that ledge is usually smoothed and polished. it takes much less pressure (ie: pounds pull) to trip the trigger. the factory hammers are usually deeper, thereby having more surface area and friction making it harder to pull the trigger.
its the difference between the ledge sizes on these two "L"'s L and L if that helps any?
the after market hammers have a very small ledge that catches the sear, and that ledge is usually smoothed and polished. it takes much less pressure (ie: pounds pull) to trip the trigger. the factory hammers are usually deeper, thereby having more surface area and friction making it harder to pull the trigger.
its the difference between the ledge sizes on these two "L"'s L and L if that helps any?
Its been my experience that VQ and Power Custom hammers require no fitting and are good to go out of the box.
My last part swap was to a Power Custom hammer/sear. I found it to be a bit too light with their parts, so I put the factory ruger sear with the pc hammer. Nice pull for me. Also, they have a hammer bushing setup which makes the pull consistent. The factory hammer has too much wobble on the pin and their bushings tightened it right up.
My last part swap was to a Power Custom hammer/sear. I found it to be a bit too light with their parts, so I put the factory ruger sear with the pc hammer. Nice pull for me. Also, they have a hammer bushing setup which makes the pull consistent. The factory hammer has too much wobble on the pin and their bushings tightened it right up.
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