New guy with an 1851 and a parts bin 1858

[Synack42]

Just getting the obligatory first post out of the way here. Long time lurker, but finally registered for the BP stuff as I've been ramping that up quite a bit lately. My dad gave me a 1973 Armi San Paolo 1851 a few years back and I just inherited a 1971 Lyman/Uberti 1858 that literally showed up as a box of parts. (Luckily only had to order a couple screws.)

I also have acquired a decent stash of primer and powder, so dusting these off to conserve ammo has definitely been appealing lately... I think the next project will be experimenting with some paper cartridges for the next range trip.

 

[1KPerDay]

Sweet. That looks like actual engraving on the cylinder of the NMA. Is it? Be careful with full loads in your brass framed .44. I personally would shoot 20 grains max with some filler.

 

[Synack42]

Yea, the last couple of times out with the 1851 have been just round ball with 20 grains. My biggest gripe with that one is finding caps that don't just fall off, even Remington #10 are super loose, even before firing. I have a few older tins of caps that I'll probably bring out next time to test out.

The 1858 Army is engraved everywhere...like even the front and rear of the grip. Almost feel guilty shooting it...

 

[Dave T]

The 1858 Army is engraved everywhere...like even the front and rear of the grip. Almost feel guilty shooting it...

It is after all, a reproduction. Feel no guilt, just shoot it and enjoy.

And welcome to the BP forum.

Dave

 

[Captain*kirk]

Welcome to the forum! And shooting your Remmy won't hurt the engraving. Just clean immediately and thoroughly and oil afterwards. Most wear and collateral damage occurs from holster wear and use of improper tools. Get yourself a good hollow ground gunsmithing screwdriver set and a nylon mallet for the the Colt wedge and you'll be fine. I second the suggestion to keep loads in the brasser under 20gr.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

If you're gonna shoot the brasser on a regular basis I would highly recommend fixing the arbor before shooting it a whole lot. It's tough on a steel frame with the short arbor let alone on a brasser.

 

[Synack42]

If you're gonna shoot the brasser on a regular basis I would highly recommend fixing the arbor before shooting it a whole lot. It's tough on a steel frame with the short arbor let alone on a brasser.

Honestly, not familiar with that. Is that shimming the cylinder somehow to change the barrel gap, or some sort of wedge modification?

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

No, it's making sure the cylinder pin bottoms in the barrel lug, most are done with properly fitted washers or shims. When it's right you get the same gun each time you assemble it. If the barrel to cylinder gap changes when the wedge is driven in the arbor is short. Have seen the aftermath of a short arbor on several brassers lately, it tends to pull the threads and loosen the arbor in the frame. I offer services to fix the arbor and tune the action, as well as 45 Dragoon and Theoutlawkid on this forum.