New little one!

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Stophel

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Well, I went ahead and did it. I decided I better get it while the gettin' was good, and ordered this from Dixie. Yeah, it's a little too expensive, but I wanted it, and they had it (no one else has anything hardly!). The stubby 51 Navy .44 with the Thunderer/Lightning grip frame. Total fantasy gun from one end to the other, but that's ok.

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I really like the thing. It is not perfect, but it's pretty good, and what isn't perfect is easily fixable. Like the trigger screw head is rough and not well shaped. No big deal. The timing seems good, though the bolt dropping out of the cylinder stop may be closer than I'd like, it still seems barely fast enough, and there's no nicking of the cylinder notches (the curved Colt "water table" looks really cool, but it makes it mighty dang hard to see what's going on in there!). The front end of the barrel underlug is roughly machined, and looks unfinished. Again, not a huge deal. My intention originally was to cut this solid lug out the way it would be on a real full length barrel with loading rod, drill and thread it for a screw, and that way you would have use of an actual loading rod. Just stick it in place, put in the one screw, and voila! You have a full length working ramrod. Why Pietta didn't do this, I don't know. I may or may not end up actually doing this, I don't know. It would also help eliminate some of the considerable weight of the piece. At the very least, I will clean up the unattractive front end of the lug. I'll also dovetail a new front sight. The little cone is a sharp little pokey thing, and it's also slightly loose in its divot. It's not coming out, but I can feel it's not super tight.

For its size, it's a pretty weighty little chunk! It points and handles well, though.

I noticed right off how the bore is not centered in the octagon barrel, but low. You may be able to see in the pictures. At first I was concerned, but after studying the situation, I realized that it has to be. The .44 chambers seem to NOT be centered the same distance from the base pin as the .36 chambers would be. Since the cylinder could only be made so big on the outside, it appears that in order to get the .44 chambers in, they couldn't just put them in the same place that the .36 chambers were, but moved them slightly in towards the center. This makes the top chamber center slightly lower, making the bore necessarily slightly lower. I assume that all the "Navy .44's" are done this way... I've never had one before. It's visually very disconcerting to me, but I'll eventually get over it! :D

And it's getting a cap rake! I'm real impressed with how the cap rake seems to be working out on my 1860.
 
I bought a used one a few years back. I much prefer the 1851 snubby over the 1860. I picked up a .36 cylinder and a .36 sheriff barrel and they fit it like a glove also.
 
Whoa! Does anyone sell that grip, backstrap, and trigger guard as an aftermarket for folks with Pietta Coltish revolvers?

-kBob

IF you can actually get them at all, it will likely take months or years to get to you... and the parts will end up costing you nearly as much as the whole gun.

Probably two years ago, I ordered a steel triggerguard through Taylor's. Cost me sixty or seventy some odd dollars. And as I recall, it took well over six months for it to actually come in.
 
I haven't loaded or shot it yet. As was said, it comes with a brass rod that you can drive your balls into the chambers with. The gun does not have to be taken apart. By the way, the barrel fits T I G H T on the base pin. I mean tight. Which is good. Better than loose. By the way, it is a base pin. Not an "arbor". ;) A circular saw has an arbor. A Colt has a base pin. ;)

I am considering cutting the notch in the bottom of the barrel underlug and put a screw through it just like a standard 51 Navy would have. That way I could simply screw in a regular loading lever and use that. I have a lever from an old ASM that surely would suffice.
 
Ariozona Custom Grips sells 2 piece Pietta birdshead replcement grips on eBay
They call their simulated ivory material Magna Tusk and they cost $70 - $80.
I can't imagine what the Pietta factory grips would cost.
 
I wasn't sure I'd even like the Thunderer handle. I actually do like it ok, however, I would like it ONLY on a short little gun like this one. On a long barrel gun, no. Too much weight out front, I need the square butt to anchor against the palm of my hand to hold it up. With the birds head grip, it would be harder for me to hold the gun up without it wanting to swivel itself down. Same reason I am not a fan of round butt S&W's.
 
Stophel, look at the trigger screw carefully before you try to remove it. Last year I bought a new Pietta 44 Navy(same frame as yours) and when I tried to break down the gun I couldn't budge the trigger screw. I ended up using a breaker bar, believe it or not, with a lot of force. Slightly nicked the frame in the process :fire: and buggered up the screw head. Problem turned out the hole in the frame that accepts the screw head was not drilled round but was somewhat oval/egg shaped. The factory assembler just forced the screw in anyway. Ordered a new screw, but had to clean up the frame hole and slightly turn down the new screw head diameter before it would fit. Hope you don't experience the same thing.
 
If the parts were cheap and easy to get they would probably sell a bunch of them.
Call VTI, EMF or Taylor's and see what they say.
Maybe the bird's head from the Pietta 1860 Army Snubnose .44 mag. version will fit.
That gun looks the exact same as the C&B: --->>> https://bucksandjakes.com/products/pietta-1860-army-snub-nose-.44-mag-revolver

I didn't realize it but the .44 mag. 1860 linked in my post is a misprint.
It's an 1860 percussion snubnose that's mislabeled.
 
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