new to reloading - many Q's!

[Evyl Robot]

Hello, all!

I just acquired a Lyman reloading press. I have never done my own reloading, but I do have a couple of books about it. The wife and I have been going through 100-200 rounds per week, and with the prices of .357 and .44, I think it's about time that I learn the art. I've read through the books that I have, and it looks pretty simple for straight-walled shells.

The press itself was in a shop that caught on fire. The structure seems intact all the way down to the original paint. There is a lot of soot on it, and the pull of the lever is stiff. I think that I need to clean it up, but I don't know if there is a preferred method of doing so. Any tips or pointers would be welcome. Of course, my first thought is to use powder solvent, but I don't really have any clue what to use, truth be told.

It has dies in it, but I have no idea what they are for. This was Grandpa's press, so I would have to assume that they are for a rifle round - possibly a .244. I'm sure I'll hang onto them, in the case that they prove to be useful to me one day. He was more of a rifle guy than a handgunner, I know that he reloaded for his rifle, but I'm not aware that he reloaded much in the way of handgun ammo. He owned many revolvers and pistols, though. So, anybody's guess is good there.

Do I have to use Lyman dies and a Lyman powder measure on this press, or are there some other brands that I should be looking at as well? I think I'll get the .38/.357 die set first, as this would encompass most of what we shoot. Then, I will be getting the .44 die set, as both Special and Magnum are freaking expensive. I have looked for die sets and powder measures on ebay, and it looks like all of this stuff is very affordable, and will pay for itself in the short run, actually.

I don't really have any desire to cast my own bullets at this point in time, although I don't want to permanently set myself against it. The thought of leading my barrels just creeps me out, so I would like to stick to jacketed rounds for now.

I would gladly accept any tips or pointers, being a newbie, and not knowing much of anything except what I have detailed above. Also, where should I go to get new shells/powder/bullets/primers/etc.? I've been asking around, and there seem to be very few resources here in the Okc area on this stuff. I like purchasing stuff online anyway, and I would take any pointers on this as well. Okay, so the wife is reading over my shoulder, and just told me that they have all this stuff at the range. I would still be interested in other options.

Thanks in advance! OBTW - there's a link to pics below.

./Michael

 

[PotatoJudge]

The prices I have seen on ebay have not been great. Check out Midway or Grafs and compare prices on stuff. Watch the classifieds here, there are some good deals on a fairly regular basis.

I'd recommend buying some hard cast lead bullets and giving them a try. See what the deal with leading is for yourself then decide if it's really a concern.

As to cleaning the press, test a small area to see if break cleaner or simple green will damage the finish. Use whichever doesn't take the paint off and finish up with a drying off and light oiling.

 

[SASS#23149]

thousands of us shoot zillions of cast bullets with very little or no leading problmes,so give it a shot,as they say.
Be sure to buy carbide dies so no lube is needed,on pistol calibers that is.
Some old Lyman presses use special dies,I'll let someone else answer that one.Looks to be a Tru line Junior press??
ebay is crazy on powder measure prices.skip them and serch the various gun board.s

 

[Bullet]

This was Grandpa's press

Cool, I think it would be really great if you can reload on your Grandpa's press, good luck to you in restoring it.

 

[Evyl Robot]

Thank you, Bullet! I have to admit that the sentimental value is a definite plus here.

SASS, I know that it's probably irrational, and I have shot non-jacketed loads, but it still creeps me out. Does the trick of following lead with FMJ's to knock the lead out work? I'm sure I'll feel better about lead as I gain more experience. People have been shooting lead for hundreds of years, afterall.
Yes. It appears to be a Tru Line Junior.

PJ, I've worked a lot with break cleaner, and that stuff has peeled paint off of everything for me. I think I'll stick with the Simple Green (I assume that "simple greed" was a typo), and see what that does for me. Probably the same oil as I put on my guns?

Thanks for the quick responses, everybody!

./Michael

 

[Jim Watson]

Measure the die diameter. My 1969 Shooter's Bible shows the Lyman Tru-Line Jr to use the old Ideal 5/8" die body, only available from Lyman and not made with the carbide sizing die considered standard for loading straight pistol calibers these days. Unless you have a later version for the industry standard 7/8" dies (That I don't know if they ever made.) you would be better off to start over with a new machine.

 

[Sommerled]

Definately restore Grandpas old press! It may prove to be useful or not but the nostalgic value would be great if you were close to him.

Take a hard look at the Hornady Lock-n-Load progressive. I started out on one for pistol calibers and did fine, so have many others. It costs about $350 plus you get 1000 free 44 cal XTP/HP bullets with it! Their help line is very good and for every die set you buy Hornady gives you another 100 free bullets. (there is a small fee for shipping those free bullets) No bull! Check Wideners or Midsouth's pricing. Dillon progressives are awesome machines too but no free bullets.

I imagine you have been saving your brass so you don't need more of that!

If you can locate another user of a progressive to learn, it will help. Many here will advise starting out on a single stage and that is good advice, but if you have a modicum of mechanical ability it is not that hard at all to get going on a progressive. Then you'll probably never need another press in your life! Except most people use a single stage for some rifle steps, I use a single stage, that I bought a year after my progressive, to assemble the few hunting rounds I use each year.

FWIW I just finished 500 rounds of 40 S&W before logging on tonight and it took less that two hours at a gentle pace.

 

[45ACPUSER]

Your first chore is to buy and read cover to cover The ABC's of Reloading! That will answer you basic questions, and I was going to chime in about no std dies for your press, so it is not thread for the more standard across the board 7.8"x14 dies.

 

[Evyl Robot]

45APCUser,

It looks like the 2008 edition is coming out this Summer. The pre-order at Barnes and Noble is very reasonable. I'll probably go that direction.

Somerled,

I have saved a lot of brass in a short period of time. I've been trying to keep it decently organized in .38Spl, .357Mag, .44Spl, and .44Mag. I started collecting it before I had any intention of reloading. I just figured that it couldn't hurt. The stuff doesn't take up that much room, afterall. It seems to me that it's the expensive component in a round. Fortunately, it's also the reusable component!

I have found some boxed ammo that is made with reloaded brass. I can't remember the brand name of it right now, but I've got some of those shells as well. Should those be good for reuse as long as they do not have stress marks on them?

 

[SASS#23149]

The boxed ammo you found...did you buy reloads,or are they some that came with the kit?
If they came with the press,are they marked as to what they are?
I'd be very very tempted to pull them aprartand re used the componenets with a known powder and charge if they came with the stuff you inherited.
If you bought them as reloads,you're good to go for reusing them.

 

[Drail]

+1 on The ABCs of Reloading. Having your Grandpa's press is really cool! Don't worry about lead bullets as long as they're hard cast. Soft swaged lead is what you want to avoid. Get a Lewis lead remover and you'll have no problems with the small amount you'll get. Have fun. Read everything you can find and ask lots of questions.

 

[Evyl Robot]

The boxed ammo you found...did you buy reloads,or are they some that came with the kit?

These were boxed loads that I bought at the local military surplus. the ammo prices there are a good 20-30% less than any other place that I found ammo. It's worth driving out of the way to get $180.00-worth of ammunition for $130.00!

I'll give lead another shot (worn-out pun intended). I've been shooting hard-casts out of my old WWII-era M&P, and have not noticed leading in the least. I have been following lead with jacketed, though. Still, it hasn't been an issue. I figured that gun has probably had a zillion lead rounds put through it anyway. It won't hurt it for me to experiment.