Newbie, Want to Reload, Have Some Q's (45/70, 10mm, .357)

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David Spires

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Howdy all, I'm new here and new to reloading. I have a 1873 sharps 45/70, a 10mm, and a .357 mag and all of those are expensive rounds, so I want to learn how to roll my own.

First off, any general advice on equipment? I am a broke college student so I'll probably go with Lee brand but is there anywhere to buy used/cheap so I have $ left over for bullets?

Secondly, bullets! Cast I am assuming will work for all of these rounds, so who has the best value and what weight should I be looking at?

Next, you guessed it, powder. Is there a powder that I can buy in bulk (again, save some money) that will do all three calibers sufficiently, or do I need to buy a few different kinds and experiment?

And finally brass, wheres the cheapest once fired out there?

Thanks so much in advance!
 
Bullets: casting is cheap in the long run, but expensive to start. Shop RMR, Missouri Bullet Co, and sale forums to start.

Brand: Lee is a great place to start. Browse forum Sale areas and Ebay for used equipment, dies, etc.

Brass: the cheapest is range pickup that YOU pickup, but good luck finding 45/70. . . Facefarm still has a couple active reloading groups.

Powder: to start, by 1# cans of powder locally. Buying bulk is great, unless you end up with 7# you don't like.

Advice:
1) Buy a manual. New, used, brand, it doesn't hardly matter. Read it, then search THR with questions.
2) Start with .38Spl, then 10mm, etc. . . Not all at once.
3) Stick with traditional bullet weights. No ultra-heavy or -light bullets. Betcha folks on THR would gladly share 100 bullet samplers.
4) Buy another manual. Read it too.
 
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Definitely buy two manuals first, and read them cover-to-cover. You can skip the cartridge specific load data entries if you want, but even those are kind of interesting if you're into guns.

10mm and .38/.357 are great first cartridges to load... in fact, they were the first two that I loaded, in that order.

I'm not a bullet caster, and I would be wary of taking that on at the same time that you are learning to load. There are a lot of variables in making ammo, and troubleshooting any difficulty depends on isolating variables. Casting your own bullets injects a whole 'nother host of variables. I'd get the basic loading of factory projectiles (inexpensive plated or coated will serve you well for most shooting purposes) down to a point of competence and confidence before I threw another set of potential-mistakes into the mix. Others who are casters may disagree.
 
Lee molds are relatively inexpensive. You don’t need an electric melting pot either. You can make your own bullet lube as well. Tons of reading on the internet about casting on the cheap.
 
Definitely try to find an experienced reader to show you the basics and walk you through loading a batch or two of ammo. That's probably the best way to start because you get to pick up all of those little tips and tricks that they have picked up over the years. If you become good friends with them, they may also lend you some specialty gear on occasion (like measurement tools for finding the depth of the lands in a specific barrel).

As far as starting out, I'd honesty save up for one of the starter kits that comes with a full set of basic stuff. Those little tools and funnels and trays all add up if you're trying to start from scratch. There was a good deal on a hornady tumbler over Black Friday (on Amazon) so you may want to see if that's still available.

For pistol cartridges, it's a bit more expensive but I would recommend going for the carbide dies. There's nothing really difficult about living cases, but it's nice being able to skip that step.

For brass you can of course buy once-fired or new, but one thing I did when I was starting was every time I bought ammo to go to the range, I would save the brass from what I fired. Eventually you should have a decent stock.

Powder wise, look up the cartridges in a few reloding books (try to find recent books - the older ones sometimes list powders that aren't available anymore) and see what powders they list for each cartridge. Sometimes there's overlap, but sometimes there isn't and you just have to stock a few different powders.
 
If you want to shoot cast lead, this book would be a worthwhile investment: https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/8...suql9BSHDRCJINBj3kjAr3ptqgtfN4OhoCjd8QAvD_BwE

I purchased it just recently and I'm very glad I did. If you get a couple manuals you can look up the relevant data for your purposes and see what common powders you may be able to use.

I have a Lee Classic Turret press and now load .357, .44 mag, .41 mag, .45acp and .45-70 GVT on it. I can't really "recommend" press as it's the only one I've ever used, but it works just fine for my purposes.

I started with and use SNS Casting coated bullets for .357, .44, and .45acp in my range ammo. However, I just bought some coated bullets from Missouri Bullet Company for my .41 mag, and I am impressed with the quality of the finish (might get to shoot some this weekend). There are other options out there and companies all seem to have info about their bullets on their websites.
 
Welcome

I posted a basic setup that one can put together for about $200 or so. It's been awhile and I'd have to find the link. Everything on it was new and good basic stuff. Nothing fancy but nothing you'd feel was junk and a waste of money.

I don't recall the exact list and prices but as said the first thing is to get a good manual. I'd also say to go on the powder company sites and get them to send you the free manuals they produce. The Alliant one is decent and one I actually like.

As far as manuals. Lee is an excellent first one and a MUST READ IMHO as it goes over everything pretty well. I also like Lyman. After that if you threw the other manuals in a bin and grabbed any I'd say they're all good and you wouldn't go wrong.

The thing is that if you want to save money you need to do some shopping

But basically you need

1. a good manual (see above and get more than one for safety).
2. a press. I like the Lee Classic Turret. It's a great beginner and intermediate press that you'll never outgrow. (you may add a progressive but the LCT will always be good to have)
3. you'll need dies for each caliber you choose to reload. I suggest start with one caliber, learn the basics then get another set for that caliber. With the LCT you'll also need another turret if you don't want to reset your dies but they're cheap.
4. you'll need a scale. I've found that all of the digital scales are made by China Inc. The ones branded by the reloading companies seem to be the same ones you can get at Harbor Freight. The only thing is the HF is 1/3 the cost and you can also get a 20% off coupon if you search the web.
5. Calipers. Like scales they all seem to be the same unless you buy high end American or Japanese. Frankly, again HF is a good bargain to start with.
6. A priming tool. I prefer to prime off of the press and recommend that for beginners
7. A trim tool if you're reloading rifle cartridges
8. a few other odds and ends that you'll pick up

You'll also need a reloading block to hold your ammo is nice, I've used the plastic ones that come with factory ammo, a block of wood with holes drilled in them can also work.

Now the question is do you want to piece the setup or buy it all at once. I bought a few things as I could afford them, and basically in the order I listed. And if you can find a good used press at a good price then getting things as you can afford them or find them is a good way to go.

If you want to save up, or have a couple of hundred dollars and are all excited to go then the LCT kit is a good buy and might save you some money but you'll still need to buy calipers and dies, so figure at least another $50 to $75 over the kit cost.

As far as casting, I'd say wait on casting. Learn the basics and understand what's going on before you start adding more things to worry about.

Also as said, ALWAYS pick up your brass, especially since you're interested in less common calibers. I'd also say pick up other brass as you can trade it or sell it. I'm not sure where to buy once fired, but when I started I just bought factory ammo then picked up my brass. I also am in the habit of buying two boxes for every one that I use. This way I'm slowly building up a supply.

If you need to buy brass check out RMR and Everglades first as they often have good prices if they have what you're looking for.

Finally,, as far as cleaning, when I started I bought a cheap collender at the dollar store and rinsed my brass out then let it air dry. You don't need shiny sparkling brass to have good shooting ammo, it just has to be clean.

Anyway good luck, please keep us posted and don't be afraid to post as most of the folks here are friendly and will help you as much as they can.
 
Estate sales might yield some equipment cheap.
Find a local mentor. YouTube could substitute for that.
If you start loading, looking for deaths door loads, you will find it. No need to push the limits.
A starter kit wouldn't be a bad place to start. You will likely outgrow most of the equipment in the kit. Knowing when and why you need better equipment is half the battle.
Good luck in your endeavors.
 
Thanks all for the advice! When I said cast, I meant buying cast lead seemed cheaper than buying copper. I checked out Missouri Bullet CO. and what is the coating on their bullets about? It helps to prevent leading I assume?
 
Start with 357. Get 38 spl dies and you can reload both. You can fire both in your 357 mag. Both are very straightforward to load and a great place to start and learn the basics. Cast bullets are cheap and easy to load. Both use small pistol primers. Bullseye powder for 38 and Unique for 357 and you are on your way. Also don’t forget a good reloading manual.
 
David Spires said:
Thanks all for the advice! When I said cast, I meant buying cast lead seemed cheaper than buying copper. I checked out Missouri Bullet CO. and what is the coating on their bullets about? It helps to prevent leading I assume?
Click to expand...

I gather coating comes in at least two flavors. Hi-Tek seems to be the popular choice. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the bullet is cast, then coated, then resized. It covers the whole bullet and negates the use of lube, reduces or eliminates leading, and keeps you out of direct contact with lead when handling the bullet. Coated bullets cost a little more, but they make things easier.

Berry's Manufacturing makes copper plated bullets. These are also quite affordable, but you'll have to check the velocity maximums. Plated bullets look like jacketed, but they aren't. So the same load data does not apply. I've read recommendations that people use lead bullet data for plated bullets. Others here know more. I do have some plated .45-70 Berry's, but have not tried them yet.
 
Welcome!

10mm is an easy one to load for. I like 180 grain jacketed or platted bullets, and favor Accurate #9 for it. You can juice them up good with that pixy dust. I've seen load data for 357 Accurate #9 Loads as well I believe. Not sure on 45-70.

As others have said, read a few manuals first. Reloading isn't hard, but it needs to be done right.
 
In addition to picking one caliber and sticking with it for a while, remember to minimize your variables when working up loads. Sticking with one bullet design, bullet weight, and primer brand will help you dial in an accurate powder charge, for example. I would also start with a bullet that's been around for a while, and for which there is a lot of data, like the 158gr LSWC in 38 Special.

I started reloading last year on a budget, too. Hokie PHD’s list above is a good one. I bought my Lee Turret and dies new and my RCBS balance scale used from Amazon. Bought primers and powder from a local Cabela’s to avoid hazmat fees. I had kept my factory ammo brass for years but it’s worth a shot to check your local ranges to see if they’ll sell you range brass. Otherwise, there are usually people selling tumbled brass in the THR classifieds (https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/357-mag-brass-for-sale-pa.843234/). Bullets are cheapest online; keep an eye on MidwayUSA around Christmas for deals on bullets.
 
I can't really improve on the recommendations tendered so far, but I will suggest that you attend a local gun show and look for used equipment. Used dies and gear can often be found there and many have seen light use. RCBS dies are unconditionally warranted, so even if you are not the original purchaser they will take care of you. Also if you keep an eye out on fleabay there are some deals that float by. I got a nice set of Herters 8mm Mauser dies for $6.50 a couple of months ago on there and a Lee Ergo prime for 99 cents!! That Ergo Prime was like new, except that the small primer adapter was broken. Lee dies work well if you are buying new ones, by the way.
 
I'll throw in my thoughts on a starting cartridge. That would be the .357 with a coated 158gr LSWC, with a slower burning powder other than H110/W296. I think Alliant 2400 is a good choice, but I have some bias. My reasons are as follows.

1) A LSWC in .357 has a crimp groove, so you don't need to worry about seating depth. Just seat to the groove. A coated bullet means no lube issues, and if bought at .358" diameter, will likely not lead at all.

2) You won't need to worry about plunk testing, or bullet setback during chambering, when shooting in a revolver. The additional concerns of Overall Length, and taper crimp for autoloader cartridges can be a seperate learning experience farther down the road.

3) A slower burning powder means you are likely to have the case overflow with powder if you double charge it, making it very noticeable that you have made a mistake. I like 2400 because it has a wide safe pressure range. Some others are not so generous.

This is very similar to how I started out.
 
I'd advise you look into local used equipment. That will kill a couple of birds with one stone.
• Good equipment. The nice used equipment on Ebay is bid up way too high, and then you take a chance that it's not worn out. I highly suggest CraigsList. In that way you can inspect before you buy.

• Lots of accessories. This is a really good time to be buying used equipment. Most people 'getting out' of reloading have tons of stuff to get rid of, but it's simply too expense to ship. So when you buy local you'll get LOTS of additional items thrown in.

• Contacts. You also get a phone number of a person you can call, or at a minimum he'll demo the equipment before you take it home. He can also put you in contact with other local reloaders. Some reloaders will be 'moving up' and they'll simply want to see their used equipment go to a good home. Be sure and stress that, because reloaders get personally involved with their equipment.


Another good way to find reloaders is to put a note on the bulletin board at school or work. Once I posted a discrete note that said "Reloaders please call XXXX". Don't put anything about guns or ammo because that makes libs very angry. I got 10 calls, 6 from people I already knew! The point is... reloaders are everywhere, but VERY rarely call attention to themselves.
.
 
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.357 Mag

2400 powder, economical, time proven, good stuff.
Coated 158 gr SWC. Accurate, no worrying about leading, classic bullet style for .357.
(What I use for my "full power" .357 Mag.)

.45-70

I do not load for it, but do download my .458 Win Mag to .45-70 levels.
AA-5477 powder works well for doing that, and by all reports works great for .45-70.
Pick a powder coated bullet of your choice, economical, accurate, no worries about leading.

10MM

Never reloaded for it.

Welcome to THR
 
I would have to check on .45-70, but I believe all 3 can be loaded with Alliant Unique powder for cast bullets. You will not optimize performance, but it will produce accurate cast bullet target loads. I would start with .38 special, and also whatever .357 mag brass you have, and phase in the other 2 calibers as finances allow and you gain some experience. The basic setup will be the same, you'll just need additional dies and components. This is a very forgiving and cheap cartridge to load for. Just start with some 125 gr cast bullets from Missouri, some .38 brass which is available cheaply, and work with standard .38 spl loads with unique until you gain some confidence.

I have a Lee turret press, the standard press works well also. You will absolutely need a scale, a powder measure (The LEE is fine), dies (get carbide dies, the Lee are just fine if you know how to use a wrench, and come with shellholders), and a dial caliper. A hand priming or press priming system is also useful, I don't like the system that comes with the LEE press. As posted above, one or more paper loading manuals are essential. I'd recommend a Lyman book. Either the latest or one of the older editions second hand will be an invaluable resource for you. Read it at least once before you even open a box of reloading equipment.
 
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Welcome to THR,
lots of great people here!

Some people love Unique and it shoots well but is a pain to try to throw thru a powder measure. (charge swings, some measures are better with it than others)
For someone starting with .38 / .357 I would suggest something that meters a bit better.
One thing to be aware of when loading .357 is with some powders 2 or even 3 charges may fit in the case.
Needless to say a double or triple charge would be very bad news.

Never loaded 10mm or 45/70 but all are straight wall cases, so easier to start with than something bottle necked.
One import thing to note is 45/70 loads are listed in 3 pressure levels in lots of manuals
#1 45-70 for 1873 Springfield - these are the mildest and safe to use in #2 or #3
#2 45-70 for Winchester 1886 + 1895 Marlin - hotter than #1
#3 45-70 for Ruger #1 and #3 sometimes Mauser actions - these are hotter than #2

Different manuals list different guns at level 1 and 2.
Loads from #3 fired in guns from #1 or #2 would be bad news.

When I started loading 9mm, I started with lead bullets and had no issues.
Loaded lead in .357/.38 no issues either.
For lead bullets to work right they have to be the correct hardness and fit you bore. (just because for example it is supposed to be .357 does not mean that it is)
So yes you can start with lead and have no problems, I did maybe because I didn't realize how "hard" it could be:)

So having said that I would say start with the .357 or 10mm, don't try for MAX/nuclear loads in the beginning,
and while more expensive I would be tempted to say start with jacketed bullets,
Plated or coated lead will work to but may be more likely to throw you a curve ball.
Easier to hit straight pitches when your learning.
If you go with lead I would say spend the few extra $ to get the coated ones, less likely to have leading issues.
Also harder, higher BHN is not always better, opinions vary but for most .38/ med .357 BHN 12 should be hard enough.
For 10mm probably 16 or 18. (softer might be better here to, guessing from what I know about 9mm and .45 since I don't shot 10mm)

Have fun, be safe, and if in doubt ask questions.
 
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Cheap and reloading don’t seem to go together. Often a used press on eBay will bring new or near-new price. I traded about $125 worth of stuff for my lee classic cast single stage and ended up at about $160 in my LCT. Right after I bought the LCT they brought out the value turret, which is likely one of the best presses for a beginner on the market, but I’m not sure it can handle 45-70. Don’t waste money on a C frame press or a cast aluminum press. On those you save money up front but you have a press which will eventually fail.

Best thing you can do though, is read manuals. Be patient and get gear when you find it on sale or find a deal on used stuff. Read about the different things that you want. Don’t just buy something, study the differences and buy the right thing the first time. I would encourage you to use Lee products, or RCBS products because both companies provide GOOD product at an affordable price, but both companies stand behind their products too.

If I were jumping into reloading right now, I would be buying a Lee Classic Turret press, Lee dies with powder through expanders, an RCBS hand primer, Frankford Arsenal scale, and a Lyman manual. I would also be looking at Reloading Assistant (the app) as it pulls data from all the big powder companies websites and combines it into one location. You don’t have to do anything wild to have clean enough brass, the important thing is to have them free of gritty stuff like sand. A tumbler can come later.
 
Just in case no one mentioned it yet (I know I didn't), carbide pistol dies are a good idea; no case lube needed. I don't believe carbide dies are made for .45-70, so the cases need lube to run through the resizing die. Just another reason to start with .357. I have Lee carbide .38spl dies, which work just fine for .357 as well.
 
Get to know the guys at the range you go to if possible. The gun community is just that, a community. They should be able to get you in touch with a local mentor who can help you get started. I lucked out and found a guy who just gave me his Lee turret press since he bought his second Dillon 550. I also was leant a few outdated loading manuals. The load data wasn't up to date but the first half of those books on how reloading works are still the same.
 
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