OAL & Lee Factory Crimp

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JustsayMo

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OK, I'm a newbie greenhorn reloader. I have a rockchucker and a few sets of dies (RCBS & LEE). I decided to try loading some 150gr RN (Hornady) into once fired (FC) cases with my LEE 30-30 dies with the factory crimp die. I did NOT trim the cases but they were all within .002".

Everything is going well as far as I know until I get to the factory crimp die. I've seated the bullets so the over all length is as perfect as I can make it which is spot on according to my plastic RCBS caliper. After I set the factory crimp die I measure a cartridge and my overall length has shrunk .010-.015 on the cartridges I've crimped.

Where did I go wrong? Any advice, tips and/or educated guesses are MUCH appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
Yeah, once you put it through the resizing die, use either the seating die or the factory crimp. Typically, the diameter is set. If you feel that you need to factory crimp (loose bullet), then be extremely careful when running the shell. Sometimes, the bullet will "catch" on the die and seat a little deeper (sometimes stopped only by the powder).

I use a Lee Classic Press and have both the Seating Die and the Factory Crimp die and find little need for the factory crimp.

Just a thought.

Berek
 
Case crimping

If the bullets you're loading have a cannelure (the little ring around the bullet) you shouldn't need the factory crimp die. If not, the last guy was on to something, make sure you're not catching the bullet on a part on the crimping die and pushing it farther into the case.
 
I've seen a few threads over the years where a reloader was using the term, "factory crimp die", referring to the seater/crimp die that came with the Lee two-die set. The Factory Crimp Die doesn't seat; it only crimps and shouldn't change the o.a.l. The factory crimp die, on the other hand, is also a seater die and will change the o.a.l. if one is trying to seat and crimp at the same time and the die isn't properly adjusted.

The Factory Crimp Die uses a collet for crimping; the factory crimp die doesn't use a collet for crimping.
 
JustsayMo: Anytime. I like simple problems. The worst that I had to deal with was this:

Loading .300 WSM. Empty shells cycle correctly, after seating, cannot close the bolt. Turned out that I applied too much pressure and the shoulder was being forced out of round. Luckily, on most, I could remove the depriming pin and run the still-loaded shell through the resizer. Some I actually had to pull the bullet and start from scratch.

When the shell was made lopsided, most of them were nearly invisible and I was :banghead: trying to figure out what happened.

Enjoy reloading.

Berek
 
howdy Rock; I have the extra factory crimp die 3 die set. I was told it is excellent for cartridges that will be used in tube feed repeaters like my Marlins. Being a newbie, I'm still at the mercy of those advising me. Luckily I found this forum and some kindly folk like yourself and Berek and 1911 guy to help me out.
 
You are probably trying to crimp too much, ....

and crumpling the shoulder of the brass. Definitely check for a shoulder on your rounds.
 
Justsamo: Yep, that FCD should do the trick for a tubular mag rifle. Just wanted to give the information I did, as I really have seen a few reloaders confusing the separate Factory Crimp Die with the seater/crimp die.

If you're having trouble with neck tension (the bullet seats too easily), you probably don't have the sizing die screwed down enough. I highly recommend the Wilson case gage for setting up bottleneck sizing dies. The Wilson gage isn't a "substitute chamber" gage, but tells you when you're bumping the shouler enough for proper headspace.

While Lee claims that a cannelure isn't necessary for their FCD, I've found that crimping into a cannelure is a little more solid than not.
 
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