Oven drying a c&b revolver??!!

Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by DMShag514, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. Malachi Leviticus Blue

    Malachi Leviticus Blue Member

    Jan 13, 2012
    I think its the temperature.
    I've oven dried at 150 and never had flash rust either.
    I've also dried in front of my wood stove which is probably similar temp with no problems.
    desmobob likes this.
  2. TheOutlawKid

    TheOutlawKid Member

    May 31, 2018
    I dont use an oven. I feel its unnecessary. Ive never ever had flash rust and thats because i use corrosive home made percussion caps. Although when i clean i never use hot water. Cold or room temp only. And i usually use very little...for instance i dont even use the sink or faucet. I have these small 2 ounce spray bottles you get in the travel hygeine section at walmart and store my spray cleaners in there...they last a very very long time. Doesnt take a whole lot. I have one bottle with distilled water alone, one with 50% LA Totally Awesome and 50% distilled water, another with 25% Ballistol and 75% distilled water. These are all i ever use along with cleaning patches and dowels i use as a cleaning rod, a brass wire brush (only if needed), and nylon brush. I rarely use the ballistol mix too...usually just use the LA Totally Awesome and water mix spray bottle and the pure distilled water spray bottle. Doesnt take much to spray down and clean my guns. When im done cleaning and drying i wipe down every square inch with Barricade. Also the type and amount of bullet/fouling lube makes a great impact on how you will need to clean. If you use gobs of it over the ball etc then you will be spending a whole lot of time cleaning all the waxy lube gunk mixed with fouling that has gotten everywhere...where as if you use your lube in a manner of which you use very little but that very small amount is the perfect amount that is just enough lube to lube the inside of the barrel and keep the arbor working smoothly..then ur gun stays a whole lot cleaner and therefor easier to clean. I have found that all thats needed is a thin lube disc made from paper towel dipped in waxy lube between powder and ball/bullet...its the perfect amount compared to other methods such as crisco/waxy lube over the ball or large lube "cookies"...these methods spread the waxy lube mixed with fouling all over the gun which makes the gun a lot dirtier therfor more of a hassle to clean.
    Michiganmuzzy likes this.
  3. Steve S.

    Steve S. Member

    Jan 13, 2014
    The key to avoiding corrosion using BP and the cleaning process is the metal being heated to a temp that evaporates the water. Using the hottest water possible in the the cleaning process - heating the metal with that hot water promotes the evaporation - boiling water does the trick. As a follow-up, feel good step, hit the metal with a hair dryer and heat it some more. I find the hair dryer to be unnecessary, the oven is extreme overkill.
    Again, hottest water possible, let air dry (heat with hair dryer if you think necessary) and follow up with a very. very light coat of a petrol based preservative - you are good to go.
  4. 4v50 Gary

    4v50 Gary Moderator Staff Member

    Dec 19, 2002
    220 is too low to affect the temper of any spring yet alone the steel cylinder, barrel or frame. I'd keep the wood grips off though.
    LaneP likes this.
  5. arcticap

    arcticap Member

    Mar 20, 2005
    Central Connecticut
    I think that there's some science involved that affects why some folks experience flash rusting while others don't.
    This page lists a lot science about it based on empirical evidence and references about flash rust. --->>> https://www.canada.ca/en/conservati...conservation/understanding-flash-rusting.html

    Whether it actually applies or not, for some reason this paragraph seems relevant because it mentions that water can be absorbed by the top layer of metal which along with the RH of the water and salts and particles present can be a cause.
    When the metal begins to heat up there must be some kind of steam effect that creates some higher humidity close to the surface of the metal.

    "Corrosion at high relative humidity
    The term “flash rusting” usually refers to corrosion of wet iron and can begin within minutes. Iron exposed to high relative humidity (RH) also corrodes, but more slowly. At high RH, even if the iron does not appear to be wet, the surface is covered by adsorbed water. The thickness of the water on a metal increases with RH, becoming several molecules thick at high RH(Leygraf and Graedel 2000). The corrosion rate increases rapidly above a certain RH, called the critical RH, which is about 65% RH for iron (Phipps and Rice 1979). Above this RH, there is enough adsorbed water on the surface to resemble bulk water and promote corrosion.

    Rusting of iron may also be promoted if impurities such as dirt particles, salts (such as from fingerprints) and acidic pollutants are present on the surface (Rimmer et al. 2013a). These impurities can attract and trap moisture next to the metal surface, thereby promoting local corrosion. Regular cleaning to reduce deposited dust from metal surfaces will help to reduce corrosion and damage to the surface (Thickett and Costa 2014).

    Many salts are hygroscopic (take up water), and so can produce moisture on the surface of iron, even at relatively low RH. Dust accumulating on the surface of bare iron is often the source of these salts. These may lead to local corrosion spots when these salts pick up moisture."
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2020
    Tommygunn and desmobob like this.
  6. SlowFuse

    SlowFuse Member

    Mar 31, 2011
    Heart of Dixie
    I'm still relatively new to cleaning methods on black powder and substitutes.

    I had rust issues at first with my cleaning experience/process using Pyrodex. I've gotten better and learned what works and what doesn't, but it seems im still trying a new combination of tricks every time I clean BP residue. The first couple of times I used an old toaster oven on about 175 to dry after dunking/scrubbing with hot water. Since then I have skipped the oven method and went to a hair dryer. I feel like the benefit is a mix between the air pushing water off of the metal (heard of people using a compressor with a blower attachment) and heat. Not sure which works or the combination of both but i've had better results on the water aspect since using the hairdryer. Still get flash rust though.

    The article/info posted by @arcticap above is interesting.
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2020
    arcticap likes this.
  7. DMShag514

    DMShag514 Member

    Dec 25, 2019
    After several weeks of experimenting with different methods of cleaning and drying, I've determined that, for me, an 8/1 ratio of water and balistol seems to work best. The balistol cleans black powder residue surprising well, though I do use Gun Scrubber when I want to de-grease all of the components. For the bore, I'm using the old standby, Hoppe's #9, to help remove lead, as I'm not convinced that balistol works that well on it. After a heavy spray with the balistol/water mix, I scrub everything down with a nylon brush to loosen up the crud. Then I'll run several Hoppe's soaked patches through the bore and chambers followed by a bronze brush and dry patches till the bore is bright and shiny. Then I'll rinse the whole gun, insides and all, with Gun Scrubber to de-grease. Then I spray everything down with the balstol/water, wipe off the excess and leave out to air dry for a couple of hours before reassembly. During that time the water evaporates and leaves behind a very faint coating of balistol as a preservative. Drop or two of Lucas Gun Oil in strategic spots and she's good to go. I had similar results using oven drying as others here...rust...easily removed but rather not have it.
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