Patch & Ball

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As most of you know I always use a round ball larger than the rifle or pistol
I'm shooting them in. .410 in a .40 .454 in my .45 ect. Here is a "0" Buck
ball I just pushed NOT hammered down one of my .32's. The bore of the .32
is .318 and the groove is .338. The grooves are .010 deep. The "0" Buckshot
measures .323-.325. The patch is .010 pillow ticking lubed with a water souable oil & water mixture. I use 2 oz. oil to 32 oz. water for about a 6%
mixture. The ball is tapped in the muzzle then pushed down. You can see
a slight mark from the starter on the right side near the top of the ball. This
is the front of the ball. The patches look so good after shooting I could use
them again if I wanted to. You can see just how deep the material has been
pushed into the lead ball. Just thought some of you might want to see this.

 

[higene]

32 Accuracy

I am going to try your recommendations. I cast .310 balls from a Lee mold. I load them sprue cut down because I have recovered PRBs and the back was deformed (sort of like boolits). I have measured Hornadys and they are .310 (Duh I know) but have found some misc store bought bullets that were .315.

How important do you believe the placement of the cut sprue placement is.

How do you place the sprue cut (if you shoot them) or what do other shooters do that are serious about accuracy?

Higene

 

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Gene

In my light bench gun, I and other serious bench shooters load the sprue up.
Don't worry about getting it exactly in the center. Close is good enough. I
use a very short starter with the same raduis as the ball. So no matter how
hard you have to tap it to get it started, the front will remain round.

 

[BHP FAN]

right,sprue up,as that's the part of the ball that already has an irregularity...[the sprue] and we don't need to make new irregularities [which lead to inaccuracy] all over the ball.