Pietta 1863 Pocket: Steel or Brass?

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TTv2

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Kind of a part two for my brass 1858 thread, but this one is focused solely on the 1863 Pocket Remington.

I've been off & on with the '63 Pockets, at one time years ago I was very close to buying one, but I didn't and even since haven't really been interested after I read about issues with the loading levers and chamber to bore diameter anomalies.

But, I'll see used brass frame models show up on the auction sites for $200 or less and it gets me interested. My question is similar to the other thread, but given that these are all .31 caliber and not .44's, are the brass frame models able to hold up to being shot a couple times a year?

In the .44's, I do prefer steel because I have the conversion cylinders and I like to shoot max loads with cap and ball, but in the .31 I have no interest in the .32 S&W conversion, so steel has no use to me, not if the brass models are able to handle the same loads the steel frame can.

Again, I'm not likely to shoot it often because it's a .31, but when I do, I want it to be able to handle max loads the 15 or 20 shots per trip I'd be shooting it and not become a wallhanger after a few months.
 
While it won't become a wallhanger in a few months, keep it up and it will become one. I'd go with steel any day.
 
I think the .31 brass Remmies will be ok as long as you don't overload it and shoot it a lot. I suppose if you went crazy and shot it all day with full loads; yeah, that might be bad.

Interestingly, while it's generally thought brass frames were associated with Confederate made revolvers as they lacked a lot of steel, this small Remington .31 revolver was actually made in some iterations as a brasser.
There were 4 main variations of this revolver and 2 had brassframes, the remaining 2 had normal metal. One of those late types had a brass sheath on the spur trigger. Other variations include front sight type and the shape of the nipple sockets on the rear of the cylinder.
 
The pocket Remington in brass was discontinued and not very many were made. Brass frames were not well regarded in the old days. The steel models sold by far much more in an era when these pocket pistols were popular.

They hold such a small charge of 3f that they are not even effective. People who want these to have enough power to reach weak firearm levels often load them with 4f. I have known of a brass reproduction that cracked at the frame with regular 3f. My opinion is brass is not a good option for this tiny frame.
 
I completely forgot that with .31's, 4F is the way to go, but I only shoot substitutes like Pyrodex and Triple 7, so IDK if that makes a difference.
 
I bought one but in steel. I had to return it due to defects in the casting. I got a good one the second time.
I also bought a conversion cylinder for .32 S&W short and almost all of my shooting has been with handloaded .32 S&W.

I didn't even consider getting a brass framed one.
 
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