I read all the reviews for all of the Pedersoli Kentucky flint kits .
I get the impression the locks are good, or better than average.
One kit builder supposed the frizzens might need to be softer. I can't figure that one out what so ever as the frizzens need to be glass hard. Perhaps it was his first gun, and he believes rocks burn. The frizzen is what is burning. Steel burns when it is cut with harder flint.
Most kits guns I have seen leave the frizzens to soft to spark. So if I hadn't read these fire well, I would have guessed they don't fire regularly, most often, and probably don't fire at all unless the frizzen is case hardend.
So to find out otherwise is something of a delite.
Many winters ago, as a wee lad I tinkered with the black stuff alone. I had no one to ask about anything. I started with CVA cap locks and built a few. They worked ok, but were far from realistic.
I ventured on to a CVA flinter, and it was horrible. Not only did it not look like any Tower pistol what so ever, the lock was total junk. Maybe one in 10 trys the lock would fire the gun.
Had I let it go at that, I would have branded all flinters junk.
Well I didn't, but I don't have any lesser locks quality that Siler, and a lock kit which at my best guess is level 6/8, costs better than 100 bucks these days.
I can still laff at my antics after snapping off a 4-40 tap in a blind hole 4 times..
So a cap lock is a safe way to build a kit, and then maybe, just maybe if you call Dixie they may have a Pedersoli Kentucky kit that can take both types of locks.
Many real flinters were converted to cap lock.
And like many here I learned going backwards..
It seems the others building these kits had some problem installing the sites..
My best guess is the milled dove tail shots are straight. That is fine, as you just hand file and slightly taper the sites themselves and never the gun barrel.
If you screw up you just screw up a site base, and then you can have choices.
One choice might be buy new sites, the next might be to add metal by soldering, brazing, or even welding a bead on the base and try filing again.
I wish Dixie had more kits in a more complex finishing..
Last I don't believe blueing is accurate to history at the time of these guns. So far as I know it was in the white, or browned.. Blueing came to be just about this time commonly, and commonly is a key word.
What was in fashion means something, and while blueing existed before this time by maybe as must as 300 years it was not common in America.
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/default...ath=22_162_195
On EDIT.. This post took me around for a look at DIXIE, where I found a all steel Scottish pistol, and seached them and came to this site I found interesting.. I have no idea about this site other than I found it interesting..
http://www.ttreasuresu.com/Pistols.html
One day I hope to own a pair of these steel pistols.