polishing internals of S&W revolvers
- Thread starter MR.G
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Of course it will. I think only the hammer and trigger are hardened, but I'm not positive there aren't other parts.
As an exapmle, in Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual", page 39, figure 64. In reference to the trigger cam area, he states "Do not stone or polish this surface, since there is no excess material and the case hardening is needed." He has similar warnings in reference to other hammer and trigger areas.
From personal experiance, I've learned this the hard way. The metal under the hardening is VERY soft, and will wear away to the point of being ruined in just a few hundered rounds if it's ever exposed.
On the hardened parts, I think you should limit any polishing to correcting any obvious burrs, and go slow.
Joe
As an exapmle, in Jerry Kuhnhausen's book "The S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual", page 39, figure 64. In reference to the trigger cam area, he states "Do not stone or polish this surface, since there is no excess material and the case hardening is needed." He has similar warnings in reference to other hammer and trigger areas.
From personal experiance, I've learned this the hard way. The metal under the hardening is VERY soft, and will wear away to the point of being ruined in just a few hundered rounds if it's ever exposed.
On the hardened parts, I think you should limit any polishing to correcting any obvious burrs, and go slow.
Joe
Coltdriver
Member
You might want to try molyfusion.
It is well proven and simply makes the existing surfaces smoother.
I have used it on several guns including two revolvers recently and the effect is noticable.
It is well proven and simply makes the existing surfaces smoother.
I have used it on several guns including two revolvers recently and the effect is noticable.
I have found a numer of relatively good buys on S&W revolvers that someone "polished" and then dumped on a dealer or at a gun show. Of course a lot of the lockwork had to be replaced, but that was factored into the price. Anyone who has to ask questions about what to do, or not do as the case may be, has no business doing anything - until they KNOW what they are doing. "Polishing" the wrong part in the wrong place can quickly ruin the gun. Get some snap-caps or empty cases (be sure they are empty) and dry fire the living daylights out of it. If you don't want a ring on the cylinder swing it out, and hold the thumbpiece back with the week hand while you dry fire with the strong one.
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
I always polish the bottom of the rebound slide and facing surface of the frame, and keep the two faces clean and well lubricated.
bountyhunter
member
"I always polish the bottom of the rebound slide and facing surface of the frame, and keep the two faces clean and well lubricated."
Agreed. If you "mirror finish" the two frame surfaces that the rebound slide bears against, then polish the bottom of the slide (and round over the sharp edges) that's about all it takes. Re-assemble with Tetra grease, Militec or any good synthetic grease on all parts. If you install the reduced power springs, your DA trigger pull will be about 6 1/2 pounds and it will be smooth as glass.
Never polish sear faces or any parts of the trigger or hammer that have stress on them as it will cut through the hardening and then wear quickly. Some people polish up the "showing" faces of the hammer and/or trigger for pimp looks which doesn't hurt anything.
Agreed. If you "mirror finish" the two frame surfaces that the rebound slide bears against, then polish the bottom of the slide (and round over the sharp edges) that's about all it takes. Re-assemble with Tetra grease, Militec or any good synthetic grease on all parts. If you install the reduced power springs, your DA trigger pull will be about 6 1/2 pounds and it will be smooth as glass.
Never polish sear faces or any parts of the trigger or hammer that have stress on them as it will cut through the hardening and then wear quickly. Some people polish up the "showing" faces of the hammer and/or trigger for pimp looks which doesn't hurt anything.
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
I forgot to mention last evening I like to have the visible parts of hammers and triggers polished and jewelled. Magnaport does a fine job of it.
Guy B. Meredith
Member
As mentioned above, Jerry Miculek's video is good. However, in the video he says that polishing is only the equivalent of putting 5000 rounds through the revolver. Heck, anyone can do that in less than 5 months in practice for competition.
bountyhunter
member
"As mentioned above, Jerry Miculek's video is good. However, in the video he says that polishing is only the equivalent of putting 5000 rounds through the revolver. Heck, anyone can do that in less than 5 months in practice for competition."
I will risk an angry crowd of villagers with torches and pitchforks, but I disagree with him on one point: firing does not do as good a job of polishing as I do. Take the rebound slide out of an older SW and look at the frame under it: you will see drag lines and gouge marks from the RB slide digging into the frame. If you smooth the slide and frame to mirror finish, you will get an action smoothness which can not be obtained by simply firing the gun. Firing will smooth up a trigger, but a good acion job can not be described.
I will risk an angry crowd of villagers with torches and pitchforks, but I disagree with him on one point: firing does not do as good a job of polishing as I do. Take the rebound slide out of an older SW and look at the frame under it: you will see drag lines and gouge marks from the RB slide digging into the frame. If you smooth the slide and frame to mirror finish, you will get an action smoothness which can not be obtained by simply firing the gun. Firing will smooth up a trigger, but a good acion job can not be described.
Guy B. Meredith
Member
Yeah, the wear approach to polishing is not intelligently directed and does not anticipate irregular wear. Guess you can say a polish job is intelligent, directed 'wear' (smoothing).
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