Polishing stones for gunsmithing

[Hutch]

I've searched this forum with no joy, and I've searched Brownell's online catalog without turning up what I think I need.

In the Jerry Miculek trigger job video, he shows uses some polishiing stones for various parts (trigger, hammer, rebound slide). I can't find these for sale, or at least nothing that looks exactly like what he uses. If anyone here is familiar with the video or can otherwise comment, I'd love to find those stones for sale. I'm not confident enough (yet) of my own ability to undertake a substitution for those stones.

TIA

Hutch

 

[ZeSpectre]

I don't know what Jerry uses, but I've used a "fine" (white) arkansas stone for knives. I also use a felt wheel on a moto-tool and various grades of rouge.

The biggest trick is to use a very light touch and don't overdo it.


EDIT: After reading another entry though I should make the note that I NEVER EVER use the moto-tool on triggers or sears and you shouldn't either. It's far too easy to turn a decent trigger into a dangerous one so don't do it.

 

[Bad Flynch]

Certainly you missed the things in Brownell's; that is where I got mine. Look for Hard Arkansas, India, and Ceramic. What stone and grit you buy depends on what you are polishing and how hard it is, and to an extent, what finish you want when you are done.

 

[Hutch]

Keep 'em coming...

 

[Gunfixr]

I use mostly India and ceramic, with some Hard Arkansas thrown in. I have them in different sizes and shapes for what I'm doing. I have probably 15 or 20 different stones for various purposes. I use the set of ceramic that has a square, triangle, and round a lot for general work. I usually use India medium and fine followed by ceramic fine and extra fine for trigger/ sear work, skipping the medium if not needed. The hammer notch stone is India. Trigger work is very delicate, and best done with a fixture. Hand stoning a trigger nose or hammer notch is hit or miss, with yours and others safety at risk. General smoothing up of the action is not so difficult. Emery and polishing wheels should not go anywhere near hammer notches or trigger noses as they round edges to at least some degree, an undesirable end.

 

[Onmilo]

I now only use ceramic stones for polishing trigger and sear surfaces.

Ceramics can be cut in round, oval, square and triangular dimensions, they don't embed with chip material, do not wear to any appreciable amount, can be used dry or lubricated with plain water, and they will shatter like glass if dropped on a hard surface.

There is now a piece of thick carpet on the floor beneath the area of my bench where I do this sort of work,,,,,

 

[Canuck-IL]

Great selection of stones and shapes here ... quick service, good prices.
http://www.congresstools.com/congresstools/catalog?action=getcat&parent=72

While the ceramic will last forever, the aluminum oxide will outlast most home users...after all, how many trigger jobs are you going to do?

/Bryan

 

[Firehand]

Spyderco makes a set of ceramic stones about 5" long that can be had singly or in a set of square, round, triangular and teardrop. Fast cutting and very fine.

I lucked out at a gun show a while back and got a small cigar box full of hard and soft Arkansas stones in various shapes. Between those and the Spyderco set, they cover just about everything.

 

[brickeyee]

The larger Novaculite mines in Arkansas are apparently played out.
\Most of the better grades have disappeared from stores (especially in larger sizes)
They have been processing rejected material and bonding it to make 'perfect' stones.
Soft Arkansas stones will show wear, but the hard and hard black stones will last a looong time.
The biggest problem is dropping or otherwise breaking them.

 

[Hutch]

Canuck and all y'all, thanks.

 

[Crimper-D]

Just an addon to this thread...

The Japanese Water Stones, both naturaal and synthetic, will do the exact same job as the Arkansas stones and will last at least as long as the novaculite stones.