Pouring powder down the barrel on revolvers

[C Younger]

I like the thru the barrel idea. I think I would use a brass drop tube like the target shooters use, just shorter. Should be easy to make.

IronHand

I use a cylinder loading press for the 58’s. Their loading lever assembly just seems a bit fragile to me. The 60 and the ROA (if I decide to shoot it) are loaded with the cylinder in the gun.

 

[C Younger]

A farmer
See that’s what Im talking about. A stand to me is a must. I’ve just not got the hang of trying to hang on to the gun and do the necessary steps. Then too as often as not the round balls are an unknown alloy and a tad hard.

Tried the paper cartridges, just too tedious and fiddling for me

I use a cylinder loading press for the 58’s, their loading lever just seems a bit to fragile. The 60 is always loaded with the cylinder in the gun as will the ROA (if I decide to shoot it)

 

[Mike OTDP]

(Shakes head)...Back to the OP: Use pre-measured charges. Or at least a powder measure. Loading from the flask is a major safety issue.

My preferred tubes are Speer shot capsules. The .38s will hold about 18 grain of powder, the .45s about 30. No, you don't load the capsule, you put your powder in it and pour it into the chamber. As for loading stands and such, I don't bother. It's just one more thing to carry. I hold the gun in my left hand, perform all loading functions with the right.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Mr.C Younger, i make paper carts that include all you need for fast reloading and it includes lube etc. I did a tutorial after i was asked by a few members ..heres the basics, starts on the second page but the entire posting by the original poster is a great read as well..
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/31-36-and-44-ammo-box-labels.859019/page-2

 

[Jack Ryan]

Some times I'll use a lubed felt wad under the ball. If so I'll just take the cylinder out and charge them all, then put the wad on them all. Reinstall and put a ball on each one. Cap 'em and you are ready to go.

 

[DocRock]

Down the barrel virtually guarantees chain fire. It will spill powder absolutely.

Use paper cartridges. Easy, clean, fun.

 

[C Younger]

Down the barrel virtually guarantees chain fire. It will spill powder absolutely.

Use paper cartridges. Easy, clean, fun.

I don’t see how it could guarantee a chain fire, or even spill powder everywhere. I am starting to like the idea of paper cartridges though, it’ll depend on how long it takes me to put a batch together. What I really like about the cartridges is the minimal amount of stuff I would need to take to the range.

 

[C Younger]

Mr.C Younger, i make paper carts that include all you need for fast reloading and it includes lube etc. I did a tutorial after i was asked by a few members ..heres the basics, starts on the second page but the entire posting by the original poster is a great read as well..
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/31-36-and-44-ammo-box-labels.859019/page-2

Thanks for the link, I’ll check it out.

 

[AJumbo]

I was thinking about a long spouted funnel to get past the sticky barrel crud, but possibly trying it first without it and see how much powder gets stuck on it’s way down the shoot.

Normally I'd look at this idea and accuse the OP of over-thinking something that really isn't much of a problem, but somehow this has gotten some traction in my mind.

Make your funnel with a long enough tube that it passes through the barrel and and into the chamber mouth so you don't lose powder through the cylinder/barrel gap; it wouldn't need to extend more than 1/8" into the chamber. My preference would be for the powder to travel down the tube and into the chamber without being disturbed when I withdraw the tube from the chamber. Leave the revolver at half-cock in the stand so you can index it between dumping charges. Dump powder, lift funnel, index cylinder, drop funnel, dump powder, repeat as necessary. This would give you somewhat of a drop tube effect, settling the powder as it's poured, beside not losing grains of powder to the sticky interior of the barrel. Dang. I gotta make one now, just as soon as I find a brass or copper funnel and some copper tubing. 5/16" tubing would charge .36s and .44s without sticking in the barrel.

In fact, now that I'm overthinking it properly.... if the copper tubing is a slip fit on the funnel, it would give you the option of charging revolvers with differing barrel lengths by swapping to a longer or shorter tube. OR..... one longer tube, with some sort of ring on the tube to slide up and down to accommodate for the barrel length. Even a rolled-up rubber band would suffice in that role.Too long a tube might make the whole loading stand prone to tipping.

Great. Lord knows I needed another project.

 

[Jack Ryan]

Normally I'd look at this idea and accuse the OP of over-thinking something that really isn't much of a problem, but somehow this has gotten some traction in my mind.

Make your funnel with a long enough tube that it passes through the barrel and and into the chamber mouth so you don't lose powder through the cylinder/barrel gap; it wouldn't need to extend more than 1/8" into the chamber. My preference would be for the powder to travel down the tube and into the chamber without being disturbed when I withdraw the tube from the chamber. Leave the revolver at half-cock in the stand so you can index it between dumping charges. Dump powder, lift funnel, index cylinder, drop funnel, dump powder, repeat as necessary. This would give you somewhat of a drop tube effect, settling the powder as it's poured, beside not losing grains of powder to the sticky interior of the barrel. Dang. I gotta make one now, just as soon as I find a brass or copper funnel and some copper tubing. 5/16" tubing would charge .36s and .44s without sticking in the barrel.

In fact, now that I'm overthinking it properly.... if the copper tubing is a slip fit on the funnel, it would give you the option of charging revolvers with differing barrel lengths by swapping to a longer or shorter tube. OR..... one longer tube, with some sort of ring on the tube to slide up and down to accommodate for the barrel length. Even a rolled-up rubber band would suffice in that role.Too long a tube might make the whole loading stand prone to tipping.

Great. Lord knows I needed another project.

I think its all a bunch of solutions looking for a problem. There isn't a thing wrong about loading it the same way the old timers did it and the way the manufacture of the guns all expected the guns to be loaded.

 

[C Younger]

Normally I'd look at this idea and accuse the OP of over-thinking something that really isn't much of a problem, but somehow this has gotten some traction in my mind.

Make your funnel with a long enough tube that it passes through the barrel and and into the chamber mouth so you don't lose powder through the cylinder/barrel gap; it wouldn't need to extend more than 1/8" into the chamber. My preference would be for the powder to travel down the tube and into the chamber without being disturbed when I withdraw the tube from the chamber. Leave the revolver at half-cock in the stand so you can index it between dumping charges. Dump powder, lift funnel, index cylinder, drop funnel, dump powder, repeat as necessary. This would give you somewhat of a drop tube effect, settling the powder as it's poured, beside not losing grains of powder to the sticky interior of the barrel. Dang. I gotta make one now, just as soon as I find a brass or copper funnel and some copper tubing. 5/16" tubing would charge .36s and .44s without sticking in the barrel.

In fact, now that I'm overthinking it properly.... if the copper tubing is a slip fit on the funnel, it would give you the option of charging revolvers with differing barrel lengths by swapping to a longer or shorter tube. OR..... one longer tube, with some sort of ring on the tube to slide up and down to accommodate for the barrel length. Even a rolled-up rubber band would suffice in that role.Too long a tube might make the whole loading stand prone to tipping.

Great. Lord knows I needed another project.

My initial thought was to just dump the powder down the barrel, but thought a good portion of the powder might stick to the crud inside the barrel. Now I’m really liking the long tube inside the barrel idea. Then I was thinking if the tube was just shy of reaching the chamber, the powder would be all but guaranteed to make it into the chamber unless you held the gun with the barrel at an angle rather than straight up.

I’ve seen at least a couple theories where chain fires are caused by powder sticking to the side of a gunky chamber. When the new ball is pressed into place it grinds up the powder and leaves a trail down the side of the chamber wall. The solution was to use a funnel to get all the powder to the back of the chamber. This could be done using the method you describe above while still leaving the cylinder in the revolver. Also, with the funnel spout a quarter inch or so into the chamber, it would guarantee the chamber is aligned with the barrel and no powder is lost in the barrel/cylinder gap.

Looks like we’ve both got another project.

 

[Eyrie G. Dogg]

Pouring powder down the barrel of a revolver is one of the worst ideas I've ever heard. Why? Doing it just to do it or what? Very difficult to even take seriously.

 

[arcticap]

A plastic straw may work as a drop tube if it can be slipped right over the charging spout of a flask or attached to a funnel stem.
Some may be wide enough, easy to replace, can be swapped with different lengths and shouldn't accumulate powder or oxidization that can clog.
Or maybe a straw would fit a cartridge case that can then be used as an adapter to fit a funnel.
And they're often free so it would be easy to try it out.
The one I measured is 8" long.

 

[C Younger]

A plastic straw may work as a drop tube if it can be slipped right over the charging spout of a flask or attached to a funnel stem.
Some are wide, easy to replace, can be swapped with different lengths and shouldn't accumulate powder or oxidization that can clog.
Or maybe a straw would fit a cartridge case that can then be used as an adapter to fit a funnel.
And they're often free so it would be easy to try it out.

I’m in Oregon where even the possession of a plastic straw could get me ten or more years in state prison. Using one to load a gun; well, they just might hang me or worse, tape my eyelids open and force me to watch a Michael Moore movie.

 

[arcticap]

I’m in Oregon where even the possession of a plastic straw could get me ten or more years in state prison. Using one to load a gun; well, they just might hang me or worse, tape my eyelids open and force me to watch a Michael Moore movie.

Map of the US if it was an Oregon donor.


From Terrible Maps on Facebook.

 

[C Younger]

I’m gonna give some thought to the plastic straw idea. It would be a cheap experiment before investing in brass. Static might be an issue though

 

[Jack Ryan]

Powder down the barrel of C&B revolvers? Plastic straws? Funnels?

Making me wish for eye bleach and a whole thread ignore button. It is like a train wreck on a nude beach. I can't look away.

 

[C Younger]

Powder down the barrel of C&B revolvers? Plastic straws? Funnels?

Making me wish for eye bleach and a whole thread ignore button. It is like a train wreck on a nude beach. I can't look away.

You’ll be OK

 

[whughett]

Well this is all beyond me. Loading a cap and ball revolver is something one could train a chimp to do, I just don’t see the sense or reason to pour the powder down the barrel. The open cylinder mouth is right there

 

[woodnbow]

I sort of get where this idea comes from, one of my measures id nearly .50 caliber and it does make pouring without spillage somewhat difficult. Not impossible though so I used it until I found a revolver specific measure and exercising a bit of care I manage to get the job done without undue stress or strain.

 

[woodnbow]

I do use the flask most of the time. I know, I’m flirting with disaster but I’ve never actually seen smoldering embers in any cap and ball revolver and I’ve been doing this for quite a while, since the 60’s. Use a good grade of powder, keep it dry and if it fires normally there will be no smoldering embers. If you fire the gun and get a squib or underpowered shot, you would investigate further and probably extinguish any smoldering embers, clear the bore or what have you.

 

[rodwha]

My adjustable measures have a funnel attached. I also cut a .270 Win case to help with the angle but have contemplated purchasing a small brass funnel.

One could make paper cartridges that contain only powder much like the old battle ship powder bags. It allows for whatever projectile one might decide upon if various projectiles are a thing for you.

 

[C Younger]

My adjustable measures have a funnel attached. I also cut a .270 Win case to help with the angle but have contemplated purchasing a small brass funnel.

One could make paper cartridges that contain only powder much like the old battle ship powder bags. It allows for whatever projectile one might decide upon if various projectiles are a thing for you.

I’ve considered the pre made powder pouches. I was watching a YouTuber who put together some really nice looking paper cartridges with cigarette rolling papers. The only thing I didn’t like was the paper went around the ball too, so when he’d press the ball in it would leave pieces of paper around the cylinder that he would have to fidget with to get out of the way. Not much of a time saver, but still more convenient than packing everything separately.

 

[skeeterfogger]

Have to consider when making things to make loading easier if the time it takes to make them could just be dedicated to the actual loading.
"Paper cartridges make loading easier in the field." How many here have shot all 5 or 6 rounds "out in the field?" Might if squirrel/rabbit hunting but then taking time to reload at that point is just a break.
Spare cylinder(s) make reloading easier. Excuse, too heavy. If you are that weak you don't belong "in the field."
If loading bothers you that much get a conversion cylinder.

 

[DocRock]

I’ve considered the pre made powder pouches. I was watching a YouTuber who put together some really nice looking paper cartridges with cigarette rolling papers. The only thing I didn’t like was the paper went around the ball too, so when he’d press the ball in it would leave pieces of paper around the cylinder that he would have to fidget with to get out of the way. Not much of a time saver, but still more convenient than packing everything separately.

Much easier to make paper cartridges without the ball or conical. Cigarette paper round a mandrel, fill with powder, top with a card wad and a dollop of BP lube, twist and done. Push into the cylinder, load ball or conical on top. Finished. If light loading, top powder off with a little corn meal to get the same column depth.