I have a Lee perfect powder measure and beam scale which came with the breech lock challenger kit. I am loading for 357 and 9mm and have 3 powders - HP38, Power Pistol, and 2400. Bullet weights are almost entirely 125/.355 and 158/.357. With this combo, what would be a good way to approach powder handling? Emptying and filling the hopper, running charges through to circulate new powder, adjusting the micrometer and adjusting and measuring with the scale each time before filling the first case slows things down, and I don't know about the durability of the plastic threads over time. Should I get more PPPs, or a pro auto disk, or something else?
Powder measures for multiple powders?
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J_McLeod
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When I used my PPM, I would empty one type of powder completely and the refill it with the new powder. It doesn't take much to empty it, just rotate the drum to shutoff then cycle until it stops dropping powder. Then I would adjust the micrometer to where I thought it should be, cycle 3-5 times and then measure. Then I would measure 5-10 consecutive drops to ensure it was consistent and then start loading. In my opinion, you should upgrade to the turret and pro auto disc.
I do not use the Lee Perfect powder measure, I could not get it to work for me.
But, with my Redding 10-X, RCBS Uniflow, Midway and Harrell measures, I fill the measure at the beginning of the reloading session and run 15 or 20 charges through it to settle the powder column. Then set the charge I want to throw and reload.
When I am done with the reloading session, I empty the powder measure and return the powder to its storage container. I never leave powder in the measure overnight.
If the Lee worked for me, I would do the same.
But, with my Redding 10-X, RCBS Uniflow, Midway and Harrell measures, I fill the measure at the beginning of the reloading session and run 15 or 20 charges through it to settle the powder column. Then set the charge I want to throw and reload.
When I am done with the reloading session, I empty the powder measure and return the powder to its storage container. I never leave powder in the measure overnight.
If the Lee worked for me, I would do the same.
Definitely empty the measure after you're done using it. The hopper isn't air tight, like the powder bottle are. And you can accidentally mix up your powders if you just leave them in there.
After emptying it, tap on the measure with something metal, like a screwdriver. This will get most of the powder out. There will always be a few bits clinging in the bottom, but this isn't enough to worry about, IMO. Just run a couple charges with the new powder and dump them back into the top of the hopper.
If the Lee doesn't work for you, perhaps you can make it work. Some lapping with a drill can work wonders.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/SAM_aa.jpg
After emptying it, tap on the measure with something metal, like a screwdriver. This will get most of the powder out. There will always be a few bits clinging in the bottom, but this isn't enough to worry about, IMO. Just run a couple charges with the new powder and dump them back into the top of the hopper.
I have no doubt the Lee PPM will last a long, long time. The only threads to worry about are in the screw that holds the halves together, and you don't need to torque that down. Just keep it tight enough to do the job. The mated plastic surfaces don't appreciably wear down, and even if they did, a turn of the aforementioned screw would bring it back to spec.
If the Lee doesn't work for you, perhaps you can make it work. Some lapping with a drill can work wonders.
http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv241/gloob27x/SAM_aa.jpg
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I do empty the measure when finished, I meant though about changing powders when switching from 357 to 9mm. I don't think there are any 2400 loads for 9mm, and I wouldn't try them if there are. It isn't a lot of time, but i do play with the micrometer a lot when setting up.
If I want to load HP38 plinking rounds for 9mm, that is one setting. Then say I want to load the 357 plinkers, same powder, but I have to adjust the measure again. Then empty it thoroughly and pour in Power Pistol. I can load either 9mm or 357 again, but I still have to adjust the micrometer between them. And then if I want some heavier 357 loads, empty again, pour in 2400, and adjust the micrometer again. That is a 'worst case' scenario for the number of times I would switch, but I am also shooting out of 3 handguns and two carbines, so it depends on how much variety I want on a range trip.
If I want to load HP38 plinking rounds for 9mm, that is one setting. Then say I want to load the 357 plinkers, same powder, but I have to adjust the measure again. Then empty it thoroughly and pour in Power Pistol. I can load either 9mm or 357 again, but I still have to adjust the micrometer between them. And then if I want some heavier 357 loads, empty again, pour in 2400, and adjust the micrometer again. That is a 'worst case' scenario for the number of times I would switch, but I am also shooting out of 3 handguns and two carbines, so it depends on how much variety I want on a range trip.
Well, if you're really determined, there is a way:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=685379
There are other, pricier powder measures which come with swappable meters (well, by "come with" I mean you can buy them).
You might also like a Lee Auto Disk measure. They are easier to swap back and forth between settings.
BTW, in case you did not know this, the Lee PPM isn't all that bad to change settings on when you learn how - IF you have good lighting and a good viewing angle (depends on how you mount it). Unscrew the micrometer ring on the measure. Then turn the stick to where you can read the numbers. Then you can turn the micrometer ring to your desired setting while keeping the numbers on the stick facing you. Then carefully screw the stick and micrometer ring back down together.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=685379
There are other, pricier powder measures which come with swappable meters (well, by "come with" I mean you can buy them).
You might also like a Lee Auto Disk measure. They are easier to swap back and forth between settings.
BTW, in case you did not know this, the Lee PPM isn't all that bad to change settings on when you learn how - IF you have good lighting and a good viewing angle (depends on how you mount it). Unscrew the micrometer ring on the measure. Then turn the stick to where you can read the numbers. Then you can turn the micrometer ring to your desired setting while keeping the numbers on the stick facing you. Then carefully screw the stick and micrometer ring back down together.
How tight do you run the aluminum ring? That is where I have to do the most tuning. I unscrew the ring and stick, turn the ring to where the volume calculation says, but when I tighten it all back down, I then have to turn the ring and stick several times to get the tenths right because I am trying to get both the ring and stick to turn the same number of times, and then trying to snug up the o-ring. And the numbers seem to always be facing away when I do get the charge weight right.
Sport45
Member
I never look at the numbers on my PPM. When I want it to drop more powder I unscrew the stem some. If I want less I screw it in. For fine adjustments I just turn it a little bit. I use the micrometer ring as a lock nut and probably wouldn't miss it if it was gone.
It doesn't take long at all to set it up for whatever powder and charge weight I want to use. Trying to determine what scale setting X will give a charge weight Y with powder Z and expecting repeatability seems to be a waste of time IMHO.
YMMV
It doesn't take long at all to set it up for whatever powder and charge weight I want to use. Trying to determine what scale setting X will give a charge weight Y with powder Z and expecting repeatability seems to be a waste of time IMHO.
YMMV
How can you know if you haven't tried? It's very precise/repeatable.
The stick is numbered 0-8 with an additional mark halfway between each number.
The ring makes exactly 10 complete revolutions between each numeric marking. So each turn is a tenth.
The ring is additionally graduated 0-10. This number is a hundredth.
To see what number you're on, unturn both the ring and stick while pinching them together. When the stick is facing you, read the first number that is exposed above the ring. Let's say it's 2. Your charge is "2.xx." Look at the ring. Say it's on 7. Your charge is "2.x7." Now unscrew the ring until it's on 0. If it's now on the 2 line, your charge is 2.07. If not, unscrew the ring until it lines up exactly with the 2 line, counting however many revolutions (each time it crosses 0) it takes. If it takes 3 revolutions, your charge is 2.37. Write it down.
Next time you want to throw the same charge, set it to 2.37 by reversing the above steps. Screw it down til it stops turning. There's no mystery to how hard, cuz it'll plain stop dead in its tracks when it's tightened all the way down. The O-ring isn't thick enough to prevent aluminum-to-aluminum contact. The numbers will be facing away from you again, but it doesn't matter. As long as you turned the ring and stick together, it'll be set right. And if you can clearly see the back of the stick, you should expect the hundredths number lining up exactly with the back of the stick to be w/e you wanted + 5, ignoring carryover. (Or minus 5, ignoring borrow.)
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Sport45
Member
I don't doubt that. It's just fast enough for me to set up without looking at the numbers.
My RCBS QuickChange (I think that's what it's called) doesn't have a graduated scale on the inserts and I set it up the same way. I set up my Lyman 55 in a similar fasion by adjusting the slides without regard to the numbers on them.
I have gone to the trouble of scaling out my Redding Model 3 and can hit +/- 0.1gr almost all the time with Enforcer, X-Terminator, TAC, H-110, and AA2495. I'm sure the PPM would set up about the same, I just haven't bothered.
It might (almost certainly will) take several weighings/adjustments to get back to within +-.1 gr of a previous charge weight. Versus setting it one time and verifying it once.
Personally, I will go back to the same number on the Lee scale throughout the same lot of powder. Even if my scale says it's .1-.2 gr higher/lower than the last time, I'll leave it there. It could be humidity that day or my scale calibration/reading that is off, rather than the actual amount of powder. Or perhaps there's a few more kernels sticking on the bottom of the meter making it actually throw a tad lighter for a spell. But later, they'll fall off, and then the throw will go back up. Then a few more will stick, and it'll go back down... Bottom line, chasing the exact weight with a volumetric thrower is not necessarily productive. You'd have to weigh many, many throws to have any confidence that what you're weighing is actually the middle of the bell curve.
Actually, I don't use the Lee scale anymore, since I use my homemade inserts. Again, as long as my scale says I'm within +- a couple tenths, I don't sweat it. Yeah, my wood metering inserts can vary with humidity, too, but that doesn't bother me. I take it for granted that any ammo I make on a given day isn't exactly the same as my last batch. This is what lot numbers are for.
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I always empty my powder measure when I'm done loading. On my Hornady powder measure, I have different metering inserts set up for each load and simply switch meters in the powder rotor. I then verify several charges (which are almost always correct) and I'm ready to go.
zxcvbob
Member
Some powders will etch the plastic hopper of a powder measure; turn it dark yellow-brown and stick to the sides. I think Power Pistol is one of those. (Bullseye sure will)
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