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Powder puff vs full power 45/70 POI

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Show me said: “Tumble lubed”.
Right there is the problem!

Lee liquid alox is great stuff. I’ve used it for decades now.
It’s got it’s limitations though.

Without a gas check, LLA is good for about 900fps. With a gas check and double coated, about 1,300fps.
I use a Lyman 450 lubrisizer to size and lube.
SPG is good to about 1,800fps w/o a gas check. 2200-2300 with.
 
My typical cast load is a 350gr at 1200 so there might not be as much disparity if my hot load is a 300 at 1900.

I only loaded that load because you were looking for something in that range, it might be a fine plinker out to 50 yards or so.

I suppose you could get a front sight to be just right for your hot load at one end of the WGRS ramp then slide it to the other and tune your weak load to get to POA. That would mitigate the pain adjusting them. i think that sight is more of a “set it and forget it” style sight but you could do it.

I have a FP on my 44 Marlin, it’s what they make for people that want to adjust all the time between different loads. If walking through the briars is more on your list of things to do, you picked the right sight.

As far as fabrication of a front sight, you might call Williams, once you know where your rifle and your loads actually shoot, they are pretty on top of things. You will want to measure the sight radius before you call as well.
 
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I only loaded that load because you were looking for something in that range, it might be a fine plinker out to 50 yards or so.

I suppose you could get a front sight to be just right for your hot load at one end of the WGRS ramp then slide it to the other and tune your weak load to get to POA. That would mitigate the pain adjusting them. i think that sight is more of a “set it and forget it” style sight but you could do it.

I have a FP on my 44 Marlin, it’s what they make for people that want to adjust all the time between different loads. If walking through the briars is more on your list of things to do, you picked the right sight.

That's pretty much what I'm trying to do. It is not difficult to adjust as it does have an adjustment scale on the side, so you can put it back the the hash mark, but it requires a mini screwdriver to adjust so it would be something to adjust before leaving home rather than something you would do in the field.
 
It is not difficult to adjust as it does have an adjustment scale on the side, so you can put it back the the hash mark, but it requires a mini screwdriver to adjust so it would be something to adjust before leaving home rather than something you would do in the field.

That could be a good thing, not being a positive “click” adjustment a magnifier of some sort could be handy getting it to your known settings with greater precision than just eyeballs.
 
That could be a good thing, not being a positive “click” adjustment a magnifier of some sort could be handy getting it to your known settings with greater precision than just eyeballs.

I have the opposite vision problem. I have 20/20 vision up close but I'm near sighted enough that shooting anything past about 100-150 yards with peep sights is an unrealistic proposition. That's why I'm not really concerned about being able to adjust for any longer range than 100 yard zero.
 
The 350 grain cast load is for clanging steel at the range at home and the 300 grain 1900 fps load is to prevent things from eating me.
 
I don’t know your targets but 20/20 might not be very precise. Their “click” adjustable sights move .00125” per click. That’s pretty fine vs eyeball lining up a .040” line

You got me middle of typing, disregard.
 
Older Lyman molds can be “enlarged” by one to two layers of aluminum tape applied to inside of mold.

I am not a caster, but I don't understand the statement. If uou line the inside of the mold, the bullet will be smaller than as cast. So how is the bullet "enlarged"?
 
I am not a caster, but I don't understand the statement. If uou line the inside of the mold, the bullet will be smaller than as cast. So how is the bullet "enlarged"?

You put the aluminum foil at the parting surfaces of the mold to hold the two halves appart, not lining the inside of the mold cavity.
 
Ohhhhh....

But, since it is hinged on one side, how do you get the side opposite the hinge to close flush?

I have a Lyman Pocket Touch digital scale that I had to do something similar. One time, while the scale was still on, I closed the lid. The scale showed a reading not 0. The lid was pushing on the load cell.

The "fix" was 2 layers of blue tape on the side opposite the hinge. But, top and bottom have a small opening crack.
 
Well everything is relative, I built two custom 45-70s on 98 Mauser actions. The Mauser makes the 45-70 walk and talk with R-7. The 300 JHP at 2,700 fps, without flattening a primer, will turn a wild hog inside out. When I get a big hog to dispatch, on the farm, this is what comes off the rack. A24DAB59-E462-4DFD-8F7E-1847BA124B24.jpeg
 
Molds aren’t “hinged”. They “float” on pins opposite of each other.
The handles are hinged, but molds aren’t.
 
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Molds aren’t “hinged”. They “float” on pins opposite of each other.
The handles are hinged, but molds aren’t.

LOL...See, I told you I wasn't a caster LOL Thanks for taking the time to explain.

Goes to show the level of gentlemanliness and patience this board is lnown for. Applies tothe ladies here too. Is ladyliness a word? If not, it is now.
 
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