Prepping rifle brass for reloading

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Moxie, I have a similar process to yours.

But instead of air drying 2-3 hours, I put the wet cases right into the tumbler of corn cob media, and tumble with the lid off. They get clean and dry faster that way. Since doing it this way, I find I can tumble my cases for less than half the duration of dry, dry tumbling to get the same level of clean and polish. Bonus, they are dried in the process.
 
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I use the following method for rifle ammo that is not for use in a particular rifle. I do not full length resize any case that I use in a particular rifle, except semi auto rifles.

I lube and resize/decap all the brass I have on hand in a given round. I then trim all the brass to under the maximum length and to a point where I will never have to trim it again for the life of the case.

Then I vibrator tumble all the brass, lube it and run it through the sizer again. Yes, again. This eliminates any deformities I may have created in trimming and chamfering.

Then I clean primer pockets and run a rag inside the case with a sewing machine motor and a bronze brush with a cleaning patch wrapped around it. This insures that no tumble media is caked inside the case and it removes oil from inside the neck.

Now I have a supply of cleaned brass ready to prime when I'm ready to load. It will often take me years to go through a batch of brass.

For individual rifles I neck size only and keep that brass separate and marked as such. I watch carefully for signs of incipient case head separation and any brass that is suspect for any reason goes in the brass box with a crushed neck.

Alan
 
I like to run them through the tumbler for an hour before sizing. You'd be surprised how fast gunk will build up in the die, especially when it involves bottle neck cases and lube.

And despite the claims that dies don't scratch easily, I managed to scratch one with some good old Az. grit.

GS
 
I like to run them through the tumbler for an hour before sizing. You'd be surprised how fast gunk will build up in the die, especially when it involves bottle neck cases and lube.

And despite the claims that dies don't scratch easily, I managed to scratch one with some good old Az. grit.

GS

This is what I was concerned about and why I figure on using the universal decapper first and cleaning the cases before anything else so all the brass that would be run through the sizing die and primer would be free of any grit.
 
I would. Here is what I suggest:

1. Deprime with universal decapping die
2. 2-3 hr. clean in wet tumbler (lemishine/ArmorAll wash & wax)
3. Lube and size brass
4. 20 minutes in vibratory tumbler to remove lube
5. Trim, de-crimp if needed
6. Prime and store

Don

^^^^ this ^^^^ I like this! Nice and simple.
 
Run them all through the trimmer. Its faster than measuring them.Lay them out on a towel to dry for a few days.

I believe it depends on the trimmer, then there is that part about taking a few days to dry.

F. Guffey
 
The air compressor is oil less. Sand blasting sand it is dry it has to be to keep
from plunging up in the blaster. There is no more ware than any other medium. Your are not sandblasting with it you are polishing with it.
It works better than corn cob.
 
Moxie said


And the only person I've heard of that blows cases out with an air compressor. I think I would be worried about oil from the compressor inside my cases. It may not be a big deal, but I would still worry.

Seems like everyone has their own way of doing things. A little different, but with the same result.

Me, I :
Tumble for an hour or so.
Lube with One Shot inside and out, in a lube block.
Decap and size.
Run them all through the trimmer. Its faster than measuring them.
Clean the lube off in a sonic cleaner or just a bucket of hot water and a squirt of Dawn..
Lay them out on a towel to dry for a few days.
The air compressor is oil less. Sand blasting sand it is dry it has to be to keep
from plunging up in the blaster. There is no more ware than any other medium. Your are not sandblasting with it you are polishing with it.
It works better than corn cob.

Think outside of the box
 
I would. Here is what I suggest:

1. Deprime with universal decapping die
2. 2-3 hr. clean in wet tumbler (lemishine/ArmorAll wash & wax)
3. Lube and size brass
4. 20 minutes in vibratory tumbler to remove lube
5. Trim, de-crimp if needed
6. Prime and store

Don

Mine's a little overkill but I think this is the route I might try to prep the brass for storage.

1. Deprime
2. 2-3 hrs in wet tumbler
3. Lube, size and trim brass (de-crimp if necessary)
4. Back in the wet tumbler for 30 minutes to remove lube & protect
5. Prime & store

I have heard that the ArmourAll Wash & Wax puts a protective coating on the brass to keep if from tarnishing. Even though it adds a drying day to the entire prep process (but hey, I'm a gravedigger so I'm used to down time), I thought this would be better than removing the lube with dry media for long term storage until reloading.:)
 
1. 2 hr clean in vibratory tumbler Walnut
2. 1 hr clean and polish corn cob and Nu Finish
3. Lube and size brass
4. Trim, clean primer pocket
5. Back in cob and Nu Finish for about and 1 hr
6. Wipe off dust and run brush inside case
7. Store
 
For fired centerfire hunting cartridges:

1. Wipe necks with 0000 steel wool if they are dirty.

2. Lube inside of each neck with grease on a q tip if an expander touches the inside.

3. FL size in rcbs quality die. Set die's 'headspace' so the sized case fits the specific rifle and is not over sized.

4. Measure case length and trim if necessary. Chamfer inside of neck with a 15 degree tool. Chamfer outside of necks.

5. Wipe inside of necks.

6. Scrape inside of primer pockets with a small screwdriver.

Load ammo.

Belted brass is checked;
01km.jpg
 
Question....

If I use the wet tumbler to remove lube from already cleaned/tumbled brass, would I need to add the stainless pins or just use the Lemishine/Wash & Wax mix and water?
 
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