Problems reloading rifle cartridges.

[PinnedAndRecessed]

On another thread I asked about a single stage press for reloading rifle cartridges. Thanx to the input from gracious THRs, I think I'm going with a Lee Classic Cast.

But I remember some problems I had whenever I used to try to reload for rifles years ago.

I remember the gooey lube and how it messed up powder and primers. Did anyone ever get around to making carbide dies for bottleneck cases? I use a Dillon Square Deal for handguns and really like not having to lube the cases.

I also remember dents in the case shoulder. What was that from? Too much lube? Cause I just saw a die advertised (Lyman?) with a vent.

And often my cases were too long. I know I have to trim them, but how long before the necks weaken?

Finally, what is "annealing" and am I going to have to do that?

thanx.

 

[Dave R]

I remember the gooey lube and how it messed up powder and primers. Did anyone ever get around to making carbide dies for bottleneck cases?

I read somewhere theat they exist, but they're expensive. I don't know anyone who uses them. Just use lube. There are new lubes that aren't so gooey.

I also remember dents in the case shoulder. What was that from? Too much lube?

Yep.

And often my cases were too long. I know I have to trim them, but how long before the necks weaken?

Yes, you have to trim them. How long will they last? Depends on the cartridge. Sometimes the necks go first, sometimes you get case head separations, first. I wouldn't trim more than 3 times.

Finally, what is "annealing" and am I going to have to do that?

You don't have to do it. Cases might last longer if you do. Use the search feature or google for lots of descriptions on how to anneal.

 

[mc223]

Hornady One Shot Case Lube or Imperial Sizing Die Wax. will serve you well without all the problems associated with the "Old Lubes"
There are Carbides for Bottlenecks( only the neck is carbide) But you still will need to lube.
With the above lubes properly applied there will not be any dents.

Trimming is important to avoid excess in the chamber and to assure uniform crimps if using.

Annealing is a tricky game, Brass is cheap enough. Just replace it when any of the classic signs of retirement time start showing like loose primer pockets and splitting on the edge of the case mouth.

Kinda sounds like you need to pick up a good loading manual.

 

[PinnedAndRecessed]

Kinda sounds like you need to pick up a good loading manual.

I've got a couple good ones, but they're old, like the old lube I used to use.

I'll get a recent one. Any recommendations?

 

[mc223]

Lyman 48 or Lee. Both are fairly priced and contain a bunch of good info.

 

[highlander 5]

Most of the lubes today can be cleaned off with out much trouble. When I first started to reload the lubes had the consistency of STP and were a royal pain to get off.
I've used the current RCBS lube which will wash off with water and Hornady One Shot spray on and have had good luck with both. Dillon makes carbide rifle dies in 223,308 and M1 carbine but as earlier stated you still need to lube

 

[Smokey Joe]

Another book resource

P&R--Besides a loading manual may I heartily reccommend that you get and read, The ABC's of Reloading. It is the "standard text" on the subject, being a how-to book, but also a why-and-why-not-to sort of book as well. Tons of xlnt info for the newbie and also the experienced reloader. Belongs on every reloader's bookshelf, well thumbed, IMHO.

Get it @ yr local gun sto, gun sho, the I'net, or order from the publisher, Krause Publishing, www.krause.com

They must be doing something right; the book is now in its 7th edition.

 

[donttellthewife]

If your into it you can make your own lube. My mixture is pure lanolin, 99% alcohol, and a good spritzire type spray bottle. Ratio of about 10 to 1. The alcohol is flamable so be careful here, heat both of them to about 140 degrees ( pan of hot water works well ) and mix. Use at room temp after shaking, lay out the cases on a cookie sheet spray one side, roll the cases 180 degrees spray again (do this lightly) wait 5 to 10 minutes for alcohol to evaporate (flamable vent properly) and your ready to load. This is very close to what dillon sales for thier case lube. I did about a 1000 308 cases a couple days ago and it worked great, only had about 10 cases with very small dents from over lubing. I use an interupted loading method on a dillon 650, tumble cases clean, full lenght size and decap, trim ( power trim on the press ), tumble again to clean off the lube ( corncob ). The power trimmer cuts the cases so clean so I don't have to deburr and chamfer when useing boattail bullets. Then I run them through the press again to load, I use a universal decapper to make sure that there is no media in the flash hole and with no lube on the cases every thing else runs nice and clean no powder sticking to cases. I am sure this method would work for a sinlge stage press as well all be it a little slower.
I would recommend always sizing and trimming and would not bother with trying to anneal.
Try this sitehttp ://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

 

[Sheldon]

There are a few companies making carbide rifle dies, but they still require you to lube the cases. They are geared for the commercial reloader who would wear out regular steel dies......but still do need to be used with case lube. There is no shortcut there.

 

[ranger53]

It wouldn't hurt to get some cal. specific reload man. You can get them from midway for about 6 or 7 dollars apiece
tommy
They are called loadbooks