PTR-91 classic (wood furniture)

[Collector0311]

Never owned, shot, or known anyone with this weapon. All of my experiences lie in my issued M4, dead drop AK's, and an assortment of hunting rifles. Basically I'm a .308 battle rifle NOOB.
So, my LGS has the subject rifle on the shelf and I could not take my eyes off of it. It was exquisite and I have to have it. However, after some research I've come across some folks who stand beside other similar platforms, such as the FAL, to the death.
Now this is not a topic to debate which is better, although I'm sure it will turn into that. My questions are, can I get the chamber fluting machined down a bit to accept a wider range of ammunition? (I've heard they have problems with the fluting not wanting to let go of MilSurp brass) Who manufactures glass mounting solutions (if anyone)? And finally, convince me to either buy it, or leave it on the shelf.
Oh also, they're asking 11 for it but I'm sure I could get it under 1k
Thanks for any insight!
-Brandon

 

[bozzman3]

11 is high look at CDNN for a Idea on a good price.The fluting cannot be altered.Most newer PTRs have had there problems corrected.The problem was with tar based sealant on the primer.All other ammo function flawless.Awesome first battle rifle.There are really no bad choices for 7.62x51 battle rifle.I love the Fal the most.

 

[Collector0311]

Thanks for that! I'll have to find out when that specific rifle was manufactured. As for the price I am pretty sure I can get a few hundred off the price (fingers crossed)

 

[stubbicatt]

The tar sealant is on the bullet. Not the primer. These military profile barrels have deeper fluting to accommodate the milsurp ammo, should you be lucky enough to find any! --Long gone is the South African ammo that people used to be able to buy for so little.

These really are high quality rifles and I think you will be happy with yours. There are some things to know, IMO, before buying one.

1. You will doubtless want a paddle magazine release. Due to ATF restrictions on the receiver design to comply with the GCA, there is no paddle release. You can buy the parts at RobertRTG and have Bill Springfield install them. Without the paddle magazine changes are awkward at best. While you send it to Bill, have him do a trigger job. Together these improvements will likely set you back about $250.

2. You want to keep your eyes peeled for HK bolt heads. I have read elsewhere that the current manufacture bolt heads sometimes crack at the roller windows.

3. Get the brush set to make cleanup a snap. here

4. Stock up on mags while they are still inexpensive. These are "rock in" type magazines, so avoid the temptation to just stuff one in the mag well and smack it home like an AR mag. These magazines will last a heck of a long time, and are incredibly well made.

5. If you reload, get a port buffer. You may wish to find a "notch" style rear sight drum too, if yours comes with the 4 apertures. Makes it much more versatile.

6. The Hensholdt FeroZ scope is a great piece of glass for the rifle, and will snap right into place on the receiver. Reasonably priced too.

7. Lastly, the 22 conversion kits available at the usual suspects are a whole lot of fun, and a great way to train with your new rifle without burning through big $ on a long day.

These rifles are really stellar once the paddle release is installed.

 

[MachIVshooter]

G3/CETME pattern rifles are fun, and JLD makes a nice one. I have an older Century built gun, and it actually runs very well and is quite accurate, though the century rifles are well known to be a grab bag, quality-wise. The PTR, however, is a higher end rifle, so you know you're getting quality without having to carefully inspect it first.

As for altering the chamber, there should be no need. The only issue I've had with the fluting is that it renders brass into scrap metal; Never had a problem getting rounds to chamber under the powerful spring & heavy bolt of the CETME design.

As for optics mounts, I run a B-Square.

 

[Collector0311]

Stubbicatt, I really appreciate you sharing that info with me. I'm sure after my purchase, your advice will prove to be invaluable.
My only questions now would be, how long could I expect to wait to have those modifications made to the rifle?
And who is a quality dealer for that glass? I have been looking around at CTD, and they are out of stock. But I've read some horror story reviews saying that the purchaser was "duped" by thinking they were getting a scope in good/excellent condition, and received not much more than a toilet paper roll held together with duct tape. (Exaggeration)
Finally, would you recommend either the ZF1 or 24?

 

[stubbicatt]

Collector0311, I would budget to have the paddle and trigger done straightaway. Bill Springfield. Without the paddle your ownership satisfaction will be greatly diminished, IMO. Bill used to live down the street, and the turnaround on my rifles was usually very quick, less than a week. I don't know what it is today, but you can contact him at that URL and find out.

As far as the glass, there were as I recall 3 generations of glass, with the last one being the most popular. This is the one I have. I *believe* it is the 24, but I can't swear it.






Some shots of the paddle.



Me having a good day at 600 yards.

I think you will enjoy your rifle. I know I love mine.

One more thing: The wood stock will not accommodate the Ghilliebear heavy buffer, but if you get a few extra semolians, get the Ghillie buffer and a plastic stock set. The buffer makes shooting the rifle a little easier. Recoil on these things can be brutal, to hear people talk of it. I have found that keeping an eye on bolt gap and a heavy buffer to make them quite the pussycat, just a shove, not a kick.

 

[MJ]

CAVIM brass with over ten re-loads.

 

[MachIVshooter]

^^^^^^^^

Do you just never clean the chamber? lol.

The only time I've been able to run brass through a die that has been used in a G3, it was a FA G3 that had seen a weekend of heavy use. The brass coming out by the end had only flute-shaped carbon markings.

 

[MJ]

What ever you say.

 

[bozzman3]

IMO the trigger is a nice mod that I had done.It really made the gun more accurate.The paddle mag release I did not do.I think its a nice mod but cant see how not having this done diminishes the enjoyment of the rifle.I am not using it in combat so I am in no rush to change the mags.I say get the gun and shoot it and enjoy.No rush for the mods.

 

[def4pos8]

My version of the PTR has a rail welded to the receiver, so I have no issues mounting optics.

I did suffer a bolt failure, with the typical fissure at the roller window; the crack extending through the face and firing pin hole. I didn't recognize the failure immediately as I was shooting very slowly, testing cartridges. I actually fired the thing three times with a shattered bolt. I work my angels HARD.

I replaced the bolt carrier with an H&K, New Old Stock, surplus item and have had no further problem. The H&K piece actually looked to be more carefully made than the PTR piece. I don't think PTR performed proper heat treatment of some of the bolt carriers but that's just my amateur opinion. As the second owner of my rifle, the PTR warranty did not apply.

The PTR has less chamber fluting than the G-3 as it was intended for brass-cased, unmilitary ammunition. I'm sure it will work with many MILSPEC cartridges. You just have to experiment some before buying three cases of something.

 

[Driftertank]

OP, if you're more accustomed to the AR than the AK and have big hands, then the paddle mag release may be largely unnecessary. Lots of people complain about the reach to the button, but for me it's in a fairly natural place.

You'll want a different recoil buffer. I have a PSG-1 buffer on mine. I also have one of Bill Springfield's trigger packs. It's nice...

Whether you go Hensoldt or other, if you mount a scope you'll want a cheekpiece of some kind unless you're comfortable with a chin weld.

I reload my brass. Commercial brass takes the flute marks more than military; both size out fine leaving only aesthetic marks. If you reload, get a port buffer or you'll dent brass pretty good.

PM me with any questions.

 

[MachIVshooter]

Lots of people complain about the reach to the button, but for me it's in a fairly natural place.

It's a misunderstanding of the doctrine that leads to this. Like the AK, the G3 pattern is meant for the operator to depress the mag release while holing the mag, then extract the mag. We're just all spoiled by the ergonomic layout and drop-free design of the AR.

 

[stubbicatt]

CAVIM brass with over ten re-loads.

Number 4 and 5 from the right, and maybe number 6 look like there is incipient case head separation. Same for the second from the end on the right.

+1 on the reloadability of brass from my PTR91. The chamber on my rifle is pretty tight, so the force required to resize the brass is not excessive, IMO. Even so, I don't reload more than 4 or 5 times, *if* I can find the brass. The rifle does shuck it quite a distance.