Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy

Hmm. Interesting. Somewhat puzzling.
Didn’t you have a significantly high mv in the 499?
This is what I had previously reported after removing the 1/2" preload spacer I had used initially in the 499 (I suspect the thin copper water pipe I used for the spacer was binding on the plunger tube when the gun was shot):




499 MV w/AVANTI BB


High 430
Low 419
Avg 421
ES 11
SD 4

The problem is, I cannot duplicate it. Judging by what we're now getting from the 499 hybrids, what I'm now getting from my 499 (417 high last time I shot it w/a fresh RR spring and Avanti BBs) and even the high of 414 fps Chris USA reported for his 499 (he did the RR spring along w/some piston shaving) I have to assume that the 430 fps reading was bogus- for whatever reason- and should be dismissed as an anomaly.
 
Are there any significant differences in the design of the 499 “power plant” vs the 105/1938b, that might explain anything? I guess I’ll have get a 499 myself at some point.... What differences are there in the A and B variants? Thx!
There looks like there's a slight stroke increase with the 499B over the current RR and Buck, the pistons are different (499 uses a hard white plastic, RR used a softer rubber), no air tube on the 499- all things we've discussed/are aware of, so really no outstanding differences.

The 499A uses a plastic trigger module more or less same as a 1938B, etc. Nothing like the mostly metal 499B trigger unit, that I believe is superior.

There was also a 499 w/o suffix. It was similar to a 99, used the same frame and trigger as the 99 but was a single shot. Never saw the shot tube but suspect it was similar to the 499B based on it using the same funnel.

Both the 499 no suffix and the 499A are scarce.
 
There looks like there's a slight stroke increase with the 499B over the current RR and Buck, the pistons are different (499 uses a hard white plastic, RR used a softer rubber), no air tube on the 499- all things we've discussed/are aware of, so really no outstanding differences.

The 499A uses a plastic trigger module more or less same as a 1938B, etc. Nothing like the mostly metal 499B trigger unit, that I believe is superior.

There was also a 499 w/o suffix. It was similar to a 99, used the same frame and trigger as the 99 but was a single shot. Never saw the shot tube but suspect it was similar to the 499B based on it using the same funnel.

Both the 499 no suffix and the 499A are scarce.
Ok, thanks! For for testing/ modifying purposes, are there any functional differences in the “plain”499b and the “competition”499b? I see 449b’s come up on eBay occasionally for “reasonable” prices that are cosmetically challenged. That wouldn’t bother me! I wouldn’t want to deface a “collectors” item though!
 
As far as I know there are no differences in any of the 499B models that would affect performance. The only differences I've noted are rear sights- some use rudimentary manual adjusted steel peep (no longer available from Daisy which is a shame, they could be used on a lot of guns even the RR), others use the plastic 'micrometer adjustment' peep. And there were some buttstock/forearm differences. I'll see if I can email you a little info I have on them.
 
All,
I see can shooting posted at times. There is certainly historical precedence from our youths. I’m just wondering if it would be possible to have some guide lines for this activity. Such as, distance, holding down can, personal safety, etc. So there could be some reasonable comparison of mv between various efforts. If such information already exists, please point me to it. Thx!
 
All,

Some results for double length 499 tube in1938b repeater.

35 avanti bbs, cobalt spring, no preload
Hi-452
Lo-435
Av-442
Es-17
Sd-3

35 avanti bbs, daisy spring 1-1/8” preload
Hi-446
Lo-436
Av-440
Es-10
Sd-2
It just dawned on me that the ~ 450 fps you recently got was with a REPEATER!! I don't know why my attention span has been so short lately (I do have several irons in the fire, but still...)- I had thought it was the 499 abutment/RR single shot hybrid, not the 1938 abutment w/double length 499 shot tube. And you even stated it was the repeater in the header of the post. smh

hinz, that is fantastic! You have not just created my ideal Daisy BB gun (400 fps repeater with good accuracy) but you added another 50 fps on top of my goal!! Regardless if there are more gains to be had, or even if the single shot platform reaches 500 fps, this build will always remain in my mind as the best of the best.
 
Cobalt, Thanks for the kind comments! Very much appreciated.

I want to thank you and all the others that have contributed to this thread! If not for all the input, comments, and ideas, I would still be back at the beginning. I also must thank my brother Mike for his generous use of s very fine machine shop and his input. Nothing like having direct access to a scientist/physicist that has his own private machine shop!

Not done yet! More to come.
 
Yes, THANKS to all here- this has truly been a community project! You all have been a big help- without the ideas, interest and support this wouldn't have been nearly as enjoyable. And please relay a thank you to brother Mike!
 
Just for kicks. In my experience barrel length has little to do with accuracy, it does have much to do with velocity up to a point but beyond that it is useless and only creates drag. Barrel size, diameter does matter greatly, the tighter the fit the higher the velocity also to a point. Too tight and it creates drag and interference.
My point being, I once had a 2" 38 special that would reliably shoot sub 1" groups at 50 feet, yes it's a keeper. I also have a 3 " CO-2, BB pistol that shoots 1-1/2" groups at 30 feet and will punch a hole in an anchored soup can. This barrel is so close fitting that a BB will not just fall through but takes a noticeable length of time if I plug one end.

Most of, if not all of you are aware of these principles in both powder and air guns.
Finding the ideal barrel length and bore size is the goal. Happy hunting.

Hopefully this is more food for thought.
 
Just for kicks. In my experience barrel length has little to do with accuracy, it does have much to do with velocity up to a point but beyond that it is useless and only creates drag. Barrel size, diameter does matter greatly, the tighter the fit the higher the velocity also to a point. Too tight and it creates drag and interference.
My point being, I once had a 2" 38 special that would reliably shoot sub 1" groups at 50 feet, yes it's a keeper. I also have a 3 " CO-2, BB pistol that shoots 1-1/2" groups at 30 feet and will punch a hole in an anchored soup can. This barrel is so close fitting that a BB will not just fall through but takes a noticeable length of time if I plug one end.

Most of, if not all of you are aware of these principles in both powder and air guns.
Finding the ideal barrel length and bore size is the goal. Happy hunting.

Hopefully this is more food for thought.
Thanks for your input! Those are the same conclusions I’ve come to. The 499 tubes seem to be the best fit bb tubes available for a reasonable price. We’ve achieved a very precise splice/index fit, though nothing is perfect. It’s good enough for test purposes. My idea is actually to add a 9” section at a time to test increase in mv. I believe at some point that mv will drop off, due to friction and the inevitable air loss. Looking for another data point. I believe that accuracy is completely dependent on holding the tube as straight as possible, with minimal movement. Then accuracy should be whatever a single 499 tube is known for. Unless by increasing the mv significantly, the aerodynamics of the bb itself causes inconsistent accuracy. I have no idea if variation in the spin of the bb as it exits the tube will cause it to go astray.... I have a bit of experience with airsoft. They attempt to impart a controlled spin on the “bb”. It does seem to make a difference. Soo....testing will follow.
 
Anything done internally to hop it up?
If you're talking about the mock-up in the photo, it's just for fitting the stock to. The gun hinz57 is working with that's shooting 450-plus fps has been modified with a double length 499 shot tube fitted to the 1938B abutment, a HP spring, and a larger ID air tube.

I have no idea and I used 3 in 1 oil.
To this day, when I smell 3 in 1 oil I think of my first BB gun, a Daisy model 102 Cub!
 
Seriously?!? A very odd coincidence, Shane just emailed me a mock-up of a gun that uses an uber long forearm/shot tube/ barrel shroud:

View attachment 828481
Shane has some real woodworking skills! Does he do anything with internal? I looked at his eBay stuff, it seems very associated with the “fantasy” gaming world. In some cases for “costume” only. To meet rules of the conventions.

Still he might do other stuff, seems you mentioned trigger work.
 
Yes, he does a few things and I'm nudging him to do more. He's very open to ideas. Don't know how or why he got into the RPG deal- he's my age! haha The things he doing currently is a billet steel replacement for the old style 1-piece stamped steel trigger and a billet steel lever. He's played around w/a lever "shoe" that was designed to keep my thumb from slipping off the edge of the lever (it has to do w/how I cock the gun). We've kicked around a steel plunger tube but never moved on it. He basically works w/files, a belt sander, a vice, various hand tools and a band saw so a plunger tube would be a very time consuming proposition.
 
25CC3DA9-43AA-4BB8-8BFA-9709E7BF370F.jpeg I’ve decided to revisit the original premise of this thread. “Putting a little more power in a $15.00 Daisy”. So I took my new “ China” 105B, completely stripped it down, and started picking parts. Mostly from the 1998 that I have done most testing with. Hi mv of 452 FPS. Anyway, here is a pic of my progress. Stay tuned!
 
Referring to “Deltaboys” —a good oiling “. Is motor oil still preferred? Thx.
 
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